How much time after milling?

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I'm new to building projects out of rough lumber. I already wish I had a bigger jointer but that's a story for another thread. My question is this. Because I basically only get shop time for a few hours in the evenings and weekends, it takes me a while to get pieces milled. It could be weeks (or longer) between when my first piece is milled and assembly. How long can I expect these pieces to stay straight? Should I get them close and then joint and plane them again right before assembly? What methods should I use to minimize warpage? I've been taught to sticker them to keep even air flow. Is that the best way to handle this? I'd be interested to hear how you weekend warriors deal with this issue.

[James Phillips]

I'm new to building projects out of rough lumber. I already wish I had a bigger jointer but that's a story for another thread. My question is this. Because I basically only get shop time for a few hours in the evenings and weekends, it takes me a while to get pieces milled. It could be weeks (or longer) between when my first piece is milled and assembly. How long can I expect these pieces to stay straight? Should I get them close and then joint and plane them again right before assembly? What methods should I use to minimize warpage? I've been taught to sticker them to keep even air flow. Is that the best way to handle this? I'd be interested to hear how you weekend warriors deal with this issue.

It depends. If the wood is truly acclimated it may not warp at all. Or it may. It also depends on the wood and QS versus flat sawn. The best bet is to mill and assemble as close together as possible. How is that for definative.

[Art Mann]

I think you are very smart to be asking this question. I try not to mill up rough cut lumber until just before I need it. Wood will not only warp, but will change dimensions in the shop over a few weeks. My experience has been that, if I am just building kitchen cabinets, it probably won't matter. If I am building furntiure with tight precision joints, it might very well create problems. Sometimes, as a hobbiest, I just can't avoid it though.

[Reg Mitchell]

Real smart question
There is something else to consider also, Where and who dried your wood. some just dry it and let it go. You will know when you cut a piece and it starts closeing or opening the gap at the kerf. If the person steams it chances are it has relaxed the stress after the drying process and will stay strighter longer but as has been said use close to milling
Reg

[Brian Penning]

There was an article in FWW a few months ago about this. Can't remember the issue. Maybe someone else will remember.
Anyway I seem to recall the author saying to do what you said in jointing and planing close to the needed dimensions and then joint and plane again when you're ready.

[Gary Herrmann]

Joint and plane initially to get it to within say 1/8" or so so you have some leeway when (not if) some of the wood moves. Cut the wood oversize as well in terms of length and width.

When getting ready to assemble a component of a projet, I like to do the final jointing, planing and cutting to size the day I assemble that component. It doesn't always work out that way, but even if it sits a week after that final jointing and planing, I haven't noticed enough movement to cause big gaps or cause problems with joinery.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Thanks to all for your advice. Based on that, I think my strategy is going to be the following:

1. Mill all pieces to dimensions slightly larger than the final size. Maybe 1/8". I can take my time doing this and not worry about time pressures. A pause after doing this won't hurt me. Stack pieces on level surface with stickers to encourage equal air flow.

2. Mill all pieces to final dimensions with the expectation of cutting joinery and dry fitting within a few days. Preferably same day. If the project is too large to get this accomplished, work on a section at a time. The goal here is to have the project (or part of the project) dry-fit in some stable form to fight against any potential movement. Once the project is dry-fit, I have some time where wood movement should be minimized.

3. Disassemble project for sanding. Can also do any necessary pre-finishing at this time. Dry-fit project again.

4. Glue up.

Sorry if this is all elementary to most of you but I feel that I need to be pretty methodical about this if I have any chance of success. How does this sound?

[Jim Becker]

Depends upon the wood, but there is no harm in milling "proud" and then doing final dimensioning when you are ready to use the material. I've done that quite often as I also have the same situation as you do...constraints on actual shop time.

[Alan Turner]

Rob,
You are on the right track. Mill it first, proud, and then just before final cutting, mill it again to true. This is called "second milling" and is the traditional way to work wood.

Stack an sticker between, of course.

[Gene DiNardo]

If it's going to be some time after initial milling before you are ready
to cut joinery or assemble,stack,sticker and weight the parts.
This will reduce the inevitable movement.
Movement depends upon species,grain,moisture content,etc.
I've even heard of people wrapping parts in saran wrap.
Hope this helps.
Gene

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Cover your wood when you leave it overnight~!!

The moisture in the air can cause warping overnight so cover your milled lumber.