Another electrical question for shop wiring

[Bill Wyko]

You want one of these...

These are made by Klein tools. The other option is to solder & heat shrink.

[Bert Johansen]

Actually, I prefer this type. Easier to use and gives consistent results. This particular one is from circuit specialists (www.circuitspecialists.com) -- Part Number: HT-303 Price: $23.00. I have no affiliation with this company, nor have I ever purchased anything from them. I just found them on Google.

[Randy Denby]

Randy, Is the slotted side of the crimp where the seam or weld is in the crimp?

Alan, yes, where the seam is. .....This is one of those times when its awhole lot easier to show than tell. On most crimp connectors, the end where you slide the wire into has a seam or slightly open where it rounds back into itself. Always put this side into the round side of a crimping tool. This way it will force the connector together at this point instead of trying to splay open.
I hope I explained it ok
Randy

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Randy thanks. I get it and will be doing it the right way. I appreciate the explanation. Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks again for all the help on this. I'm going to buy a good pair of crimpers tomorrow.

[Randall Davis]

Hi All, Well great news! I just passed my rough in spection of my shop wiring. I've done it all in EMT conduit with a subpanel and using all 20 amp circuits. The inspector noted one thing on the rough in though. He told me it was not up to code to have stranded wire wrapped around a screw. He was talking about my box ground wires but it applies to all connections. He said you needed to have crimp on connectors. I don't like doing those connections and feel they are not real secure(at least the way I do them).

Any other ideas on terminating stranded no. 12 wire on a screw? Or should I just learn how to do crimp ons better. Thanks!

you don't need crimpers or connectors, your conduit is the ground and the outlet needs to be grounded to the box. you can get solid copper ground pigtails with screws at HD or any other electrical supplier for about 2-$3 a dozen. you should be installing 20 amp outlets (also at HD) and as somebody already mentioned they come with a clamp style screw for the stranded wire.

[Randall Davis]

Actually, I prefer this type. Easier to use and gives consistent results. This particular one is from circuit specialists (www.circuitspecialists.com) -- Part Number: HT-303 Price: $23.00. I have no affiliation with this company, nor have I ever purchased anything from them. I just found them on Google.

absolutely not needed in this application! save your money

[Randall Davis]

Thanks again for all the help on this. I'm going to buy a good pair of crimpers tomorrow.

save your money! read on

[David G Baker]

I use the crimp fittings that are crimped with a quality tool and add a wire nut to the wire beyond the crimp fitting. Don't know why, just another habit.

[Chris Friesen]

...you should be installing 20 amp outlets (also at HD) and as somebody already mentioned they come with a clamp style screw for the stranded wire.

Not all 20A receptacles have clamp-style screws. For instance, see: https://www.hdsupply.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10051&productId=28822&pa rentCategoryId=10310&categoryId=10551

[Alan Tolchinsky]

All my 110 v. outlets are 20 amp with screw clamp type connections. Man they make life easier. At this point I'm thinking, as suggested by Randall, of using solid wire pigtails to attach to screws on my 220 receptacles and box grounds. This would get around using crimped connections. It's not that crimps would be that hard to do but it just looks like a simpler way of doing the job. Thanks to all who replied to this post.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

save your money! read on

Thanks Randall, that sounds like the way to go. See my last post. Alan

[Dave MacArthur]

I had heard/read somewhere that the gauge of wire used for the ground, such as that between the receptacle and the box, could be 1 less than the circuit. Anyone know if that is true? So, for Alan, say he ran 20A in his EMT using 12ga wire, could he use 14ga for the pigtails? I ended up short and did this in 2 boxes, just wondering if it was ok...

Good work on the inspection Alan, one small find is pretty good results!

[Richard Butler]

. He said you needed to have crimp on connectors. I don't like doing those connections and feel they are not real secure(at least the way I do them).

Any other ideas on terminating stranded no. 12 wire on a screw? Or should I just learn how to do crimp ons better. Thanks!

You need a quality crimper and connectors. Properly crimped, the connector to wire junction is gas tight and it doesn't get any better than that. I have had people claim that soldering afterwards assures a good connection but tests have shown that the solder doesn't penetrate. Look at it this way, If it is good enough for aircraft, ocean going ships, and diesel locomotives, it is good enough your your shop.

[Randall Davis]

You need a quality crimper and connectors. Properly crimped, the connector to wire junction is gas tight and it doesn't get any better than that. I have had people claim that soldering afterwards assures a good connection but tests have shown that the solder doesn't penetrate. Look at it this way, If it is good enough for aircraft, ocean going ships, and diesel locomotives, it is good enough your your shop.

absolutely overkill! unless you have an amphibious flying shop?