I need to get a round geometry about 2" thick by about 60" diameter with an opening in the center about 45" diameter.
I have two (outdoor dining) tables I'm planning (they'll be coated in epox or catalyzing urethane so they'll be weather proof).
The tables will be based on rounds of glass plate (1/2"-thk-*-46"-dia). The table geometries are "U" shaped so they can be used as stand alone separates or brought together to make a larger dining platform.
The diameters 46" for the glass and the wood surround of 60" dia' have circumferences of 144.51" and 188.49" respectively
I'm using conventional shaker type tapered legs: 4 each table. They are about 4.375" at the top where they'll join the tables.
The round geometry is proving to be a bit of a baffler.
I'm working with 1"thick * 6"wide * 8'long, long spruce boards. I am thinking that the best way to get the round shape to surround the glass AND provide a place wide enough to mount the legs is to:
1.) Rip the spruce into strips about 2.5" wide.
2.) apply to the the ends of the ripped strips some kind of joint pre-cut joints such as long slow tapered scarf or finger joints ('cause no board will do the circumference alone). - OR - joint 'em with a finger cutter bit after they are bent up?
3.) build a steam box & steam the ripped strips and clamp 'em in a frame to set and dry (end result a 2.5" thick laminate of 1" strips).
4.) then glue (epox) the ripped & steam-bent pieces up .
5.) figure out & build a router bridge to flatten the 60" dia' round glue up (I'm thinking that it'd be better to move the work and leave the router stationary).
I am guessing that this is the time to build that big Torsion box I have planned., Because I'll need a flat table for both the circle bending frame as well as the router bridge.
I'm a little concerned about the ends of all those strips. They will be a long running spiral when assembled and the ends need to integrate nicely.
I'm wondering if I should not build the bending frame to make all the strips conform to a circle slightly smaller than my end result to compensate for spring-back.
I have never used a steam box. My prior bending was all thin work on musical instruments bending freehand over a hot pipe. This'll be very different.
Any steam benders out there with thick wood experience? Got any advice tips info on drying time before glue up etc?
Any one have any ideas about the end joints for the bent pieces? Maybe I should joint 'em on the router table with a finger jointing bit (I'd have to buy one) after they are all bent up~??
Any ideas about this at all I'd like to read 'em.
Gracias