How do you assemble your cabinet carcasses?

[Sam Shank]

I'm sure there are as many ways as there are people, projects or materials. But while sawing and gluing my upper kitchen cabinets last night, I was wondering if there was a more efficient way that would still be strong enough.

Using 3/4" prefinished maple ply for the tops and sides and 1/2" for the back I made dadoes in the sides for the top, bottom, and back, and a dadoe in the top for the back. I glued it all together and then used screws instead of clamps (which I have done in the past w/o screws) so that I could do more than 1 at a time (limited number of longer clamps). Plus, clamping is so clumsy.

Is there a better way for prefinished stuff?

Looking forward to your responses

[Jim Becker]

I used to use dados, grooves and rebates. I now use pocket screws and butt joints with glue as well as countersunk screws where appropriate. No fuss, no muss. Perfectly square with minimal clamping. Fast, too. (For your pre-finished material, a little sanding at the glue joint would be appropriate if you want to use glue)

[frank shic]

Sam, I used 3/4" melamine for the cabinet sides, tops, bottoms and shelves and 1/4" melamine for the backs. I run a 1/4" dado 3/4" in from the back and fasten the sides to the tops and bottoms initially with a couple of 18 gauge staples and then follow it up with confirmat screws. ABSOLUTELY NO RABBETS - it takes an extra step and does not improve the strength of the overall case. I can assemble one every 15 minutes using this method. I agree that clamping is majorly CLUMSY and trying to manipulate the cabinet with all those bessey's attached to it is a major pain in the back!

[Matt Newton]

Sam, I just finished redoing my entire kitchen cabinets. I used pocket screws for the carcasses as well as for attaching the face frames. I used biscuits for the bottom edge to locate them better. Not using clamps makes it go much quicker. Good luck.

Matt

[Peter Pedisich]

Sam,

Jim's method has worked well for me on several occasions...
but I learned the hard way to make sure your saws are cutting perfectly square edges because the pocket hole screws will not tolerate out of square joints.

Pete

[Alex Elias]

I still use the old groove glue and clamps and agree about the whole proccess being tedious but... is it correct that a dry butt joint with only scews has the sme strenght as the groove with glue and some mechanical fastener?
Wall cabinets with dinerware are extremely eavy and I think I would be concern about a dry butt joint. But I'd be courious to see what others have to say.
Alex

[Scott Loven]

I used to use dados, grooves and rebates. I now use pocket screws and butt joints with glue as well as countersunk screws where appropriate. No fuss, no muss. Perfectly square with minimal clamping. Fast, too. (For your pre-finished material, a little sanding at the glue joint would be appropriate if you want to use glue)

I used some 3/4 melamine paper over particle board (4*8 sheet from the Borg around $25 a sheet) for uppers in the kitchen. I don't think I used any screws, just roo glue and rabates/dado's. They are full of heavy dishes. I would be nervous to use pocket holes in melamine covered particle board, but would end have any problems with using them with good plywood.

Scott

[Al Willits]

"""""""""
I can assemble one every 15 minutes using this method.
"""""""""

Good god man, can we get the mods to delete this post???
My wife, the Beastmaster... ever sees "a cabinet in 15 mins" and life will end for me...no more "I'll be spending the day in the garage dear making cabinets" She'll actually want to see progress not only in a weeks time, but the same day...

I am getting a bit better, but this noob ain't telling how long his first cabinet took, or the second....or the third come to think of it...

Al....who thinks if it wasn't for the do overs, it'd go a lot quicker though...

[Michael Schwartz]

I Use Pocket Screws, Pocket screws, and More Pocket screws.

Seriously, they are great.

[Sam Shank]

I'm using the dadoes because I _think_ they're stronger. They're more of a PITA to lay out, due to calculations of dado depth, etc. It can get tricky.

To see just how strong they really need to be, see this video. They need to hold 1) all your usual kitchen stuff 2) a teenager and 3) a beer bong. I found this video doing a search for kitchen cabinets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9xamPd9OBE

How do you attach your backs if you just use butt joints? Screws?

I still use the old groove glue and clamps and agree about the whole proccess being tedious but... is it correct that a dry butt joint with only scews has the sme strenght as the groove with glue and some mechanical fastener?
Wall cabinets with dinerware are extremely eavy and I think I would be concern about a dry butt joint. But I'd be courious to see what others have to say.
Alex

[Tim Reagan]

Where do you put the pocket holes on the bottom piece? It would be visible from the bottom and top, wouldnt it?

[richard poitras]

I make my cabinets the same why you do but instead of clamping the cabinets and waiting for the glue to dry or putting screws in them, I just use white glue in the groves for the strength, but to hold them together as the glue dries I use a bead of hot melt glue it goes really fast do to the fact hot melt dry stead fast in seconds

[Don Taylor]

I have started using my DowelMax for almost all of the joints I need to put my new shop together. The joints are extremely sturdy and easy to make. The more I use it the more applications I find that I can apply concept too.

http://www.dowelmax.com/on-line_reviews.htm







I have even used it on more than one occasion to make a board longer so as not to have to buy another one for the project. You have to look very close to tell it's not "One" board and the joint is stronger than the rest of the board.

One great thing about the dowels, once you have finished with your dry assembly and apply the glue, the project will hold itself together while you add a clamp or two. You don't need three hands.

Yes, I still use clamps with them although I have seen times when they simply weren't needed. By ordering a set of Cauls, I have significantly cut down the amount of clamps I would need in any situation.

http://www.bowclamp.com/

The way I look at it, if I am going to pre-drill a hole for a screw, why not stick a dowel in it? I don’t give a thought to splitting the board.

I am not affiliated with any of these fine folks. The systems just work for me.

DT

[John Russell]

I have thought of using a similar approach to dowels (festool dominio) even though it might take a bit more time. For cabinets that will have a lot of heavy and expensive glass in them, this seems like a very stout approach. Nice work ...

[Alex Elias]

I have even used it on more than one occasion to make a board longer so as not to have to buy another one for the project. You have to look very close to tell it's not "One" board and the joint is stronger than the rest of the board.

I believe you could do that but I doubt that the joint is stronger than the wood itself; I doubt it is actually strong at all to support weight, may be for a side panel could be fine. I think if you make a shelve with that joint in the center and put boock or some weight to it, that is going to be the weak point. The glue there is not doing much at all since you are gluing end grain so the only strenght of that joint are the dowels I guess 3/8" diameter 3/4" deep on each face of the board with about 1/8" wall thickness on top and bottom on a tipical 3/4" thick board.
Alex