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Thread: Chip out

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
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    1,186

    Chip out

    Not sure if that is the correct term. I'm making small boxes, somewhere between 1" - 2". So far, the only wood I've used is kd quartersawn white oak and maple of unknown species. Both came from the only decent yard in the area.

    When cutting lids, beads, tenons, rims, there is always small pieces of wood that break away. I'm using techniques from Richard Raffan and Alan Lacer.

    For now, I'm not too concerned but there is a group project coming up that I'll be submitting to and I don't want to submit an inferior work.

    The project will involve turning green wood using 3 - 5 different species but I get the chance to dry them myself.

    Can you offer suggestions to help eliminate this problem?

    Thanks,
    Burt

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Atlantic City New Jersey
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    1,066
    Sharper tools?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Schenectady, NY
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    1,501
    Lighter cuts ? Rub the bevel and cut with the grain-from largest diameter to smaller in spindle orientation turning between centers.


    Practice, practice, practice.
    Happy and Safe Turning, Don


    Woodturners make the world go ROUND!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
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    1,186
    I'm doing all of that. This problem appears on small things. The smaller I go the bigger the problem. I've looked at my bowls with a magnifying glass and do not see these chip outs.

    I'm going to try cutting groves into areas where I will cut up to to see if that reduces the chip out. Sort of like scoring on a table saw.

    Burt

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
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    914
    Kiln dried wood is giong to split a lot more than green wood. Try a log and see. I was having the same problem with kd red oak and ash. It would split like crazy along the grain lines. I think the wood just looses some much structural integrity where the grain lines don't have much to hold on to. Plus oak is a porous wood, so that doesn't help either.
    Be a mentor, it's so much more fun throwing someone else into the vortex, than swirling it alone!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Roanoke Virginia
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    Burt, when you are preparing to cut off your lid or make your tenon you might try cutting a small V groove and be sure to make a clean shoulder cut with a skew and not just the parting tool.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tom

    Turning comes easy to some folks .... wish I was one of them

    and only 958 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    22,605
    Burt I have had that same problem with quartersawn oak and other woods. I don't use wood cut that way anymore.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Childress, Texas, USA
    Posts
    1,930
    Burt, you might try a lacquer wash. 25%Lacquer/75%Thinner, apply evenly wet, with a soft rag. Allow to dry 5 minutes. Make your final cuts light ones.
    The wash will soak in pretty fast, and acts as a sealer to bolster the grainy wood to keep it from splitting out so badly. After final sanding, you can still apply an oil finish if you wish. I use it on almost every piece I turn.
    Last edited by Allen Neighbors; 07-25-2007 at 7:55 PM.
    Allen
    The good Lord didn't create anything without a purpose, but mosquitoes come close.
    And.... I'm located just 1,075 miles SW of Steve Schlumpf.

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