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Thread: Ripping 1/16 Strips on TS

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Orange County, CA
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    392

    Ripping 1/16 Strips on TS

    Hi Everyone,

    I need to rip several strips 1/16" X 3/4" random lengths ranging from 24 inchs to 8 feet long. Does anyone have any suggestions for the safest way to handle this? I can get one or two strips to the left of the blade and then of course the fence gets too close to the guard. I suppose I could make a small splitter and then run the push block over the top of the blade to complete the cut on the narrower strips -- I would appreciate anyones thoughts and suggestions on this...

    Thanks,

    Scot

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    East Brunswick, NJ
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    Not to be facetious, but have you considered doing this on a bandsaw instead? That's what I would use if I was trying to do this.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Central Vermont
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    I would use my EZ Smart Power Bench.

    Well tuned bandsaw would work well

    It is ok to run a wood pushstick up over the blade on a tablesaw, just make sure the blade isn't any more than 1/8" over the top of the workpeice. I did this with an inch of blade sticking out once and it was a scary experience

  4. #4
    If you dont have one it won't help... but a Jointeck or Incra fence would be pretty helpfull right now. Due to the thread size on these fences. They index nicely so you can cut from the left side of lumber once you have the lumber squared.

    Make the first pass to square the lumber, move your fence toward the blade (distance = blade width + 1/16"), keep on indexing your fence and you can cut up a board pretty quickly.

    If you trust your eye and your fence.. you can do it with any saw really.. but a Jointech unit makes it real easy.

  5. A method I've used is to have a spacer next to the fence so you cut a strip, move the stock back next to the spacer, then cut another strip. That prevents moving the fence once it is set for your thin strip. You can also make a push stick for the last push through the blade; you push both the spacer and the stock through at the end to keep fingers safely away from the blade ... a padded push stick "pad" like you use for jointers works well here.

  6. #6
    This post interests me as I need to do the same thing.. Frank anyway you can post a photo or drawing of what your talking about here? I can't envision it.

    Corey

  7. #7
    Not sure exactly how I would do it (still pondering), but if you do use your table saw be mindful of the space to the left and right of your blade. A zero clearance insert is a must, better yet make a new one for this application! It wouldn't take much for 1/16" to get stuck. In a pinch I've lowered the blade, stretched blue painters tape from the front of my saw to the back and over the slot and then raised the blade through it. Works pretty good for a few cuts.

    Good luck,
    -joe
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Fallbrook, California
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    I agree with Craig. Incra has a video on their website that shows how to do this with their system. I've also seen it demonstrated at woodworking shows. If you don't have an Incra or Jointech it could be done with other fence systems. Frank has a very good idea as well. If I didn't have the Incra, that would be my choice.
    Don Bullock
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    -- Edward John Phelps

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Poland
    Posts
    637
    I made 1/4" strips using the method as on the pics (one time fence setting).

    splitter, (better, Riving knife) and feather board (better, at two points) are a must.

    Also, because of the length, I used hold-down roller to keep the jig pressed to the fence after passing the blade

    1.7 M = 67"
    150mm = 6"

    About the blade height...it's personal...I keep it high for cooler blade and faster feed rate...and yes, I use the guard and push shoe at the end of the cut (at the age of 63, every nail of my fingers is much more important than any piece of wood...)

    Have a safe work
    niki

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Poland
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    Limited to 5 pics...

    S06.jpg

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    S09.jpg

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    central iowa
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    I have a tip! Don't rip 1" wide boards. Glue them to another one. With width comes stability.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Modesto, CA
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    Niki, that's a great set up AND a great mini-tutorial!

    WTG!!!





    BTW Niki, I was going to ask you why the stop button on your saw had "STOP" written in English. Then I went to an online translator and saw why................all of the two dozen or so Polish words of the verb form of "STOP" were waaaaaaayyyyy too long to fit on the knob.
    Last edited by Mark Rios; 07-29-2007 at 10:58 AM.
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Orange County, CA
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    Thanks for everyone's response -- Josh -- I like your idea of gluing the thinner strips to a wider board -- this would give me the stability I need and allow me to keep the 1/16 off-cuts to the left of the blade -- great idea. Sometimes it's the simplest of ideas that work the best -- I really appreciate all of your help!!

  14. #14
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    This seems like the ticket. Especially if you are running lengths of up to 8 feet.


    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    This seems like the ticket. Especially if you are running lengths of up to 8 feet.
    Glenn you beat me to it, I just saw that on the Shop Notes site last night. Looks like it should do the trick very well and easy to make.

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