SUCCESS: Excellent Chinese Laser!

[Jacqui Marlin]

I am so stoked that I finally was able to run a test with my new Rabbit HX3040! I had originally thought the laser wasn't firing - well it wasn't. But it was not because there was anything wrong with the machine. Rather it was me not knowing what I was doing. With some hand holding by Pete Hagan while I ran through electrical tests and some software trials I still didn't think I was getting a beam. Didn't realize you couldn't see it! And I also had the machine bed set too low because it felt like it stopped as I turned it higher and apparently it had just hit a tight spot. When I measured 45mm from the head to the top of the work piece it made all the difference in the world!

Anyway, I was then able to use the software program to do a test on a piece of basswood with very clean lines and legible lettering. I do have to mention if anyone else buys the HX3040 that there are a couple of buttons that are not labeled and one was necessary for the quick laser test but I was afraid to do anything because I had no idea what it was for. It is a light green button on the control panel that should be held down while you hit the laser test button. Instructions said something but they were not clear on that point.

I am going through the set up manual that came with the machine and will try to translate it into more understandable English and it will then be available for anyone who might need it. Some of what I learned in the set up will also be addressed.

I should now be able to try a picture engraving and also see about cutting some thin basswood. Having set a piece of card stock on fire I think I will wait to get a CO2 extinguisher before trying any cutting!

All in all I am totally pleased both with the purchase procedure and with the machine itself. It is solidly built and everything arrived intact - so I do have a back up laser tube for future use.

Again, thank you Pete for your much appreciated patience!

[Mike Null]

We all like to hear a happy ending (beginning). Good luck and do not leave it unattended while cutting.

[pete hagan]

Aloha Jacqui
Welcome to the world of burning things for fun and profit. It's good to have other newbie's in the fold and I'm grateful to chat with such an esteemed officer of GSOLFOT!

Seriously, with your art you'll really enjoy the new tool. Heck I'm not even artistic and I amaze myself daily with this thing. Definitely remember that you are burning with the laser and NEVER leave it running unsupervised.
May Kane bestow great blessings on your household.

Pete

[Jerry O'Brien]

It has been a long ride. I can only imagine how happy your must be. Keep us posted with your progress. Thank you for sharing.

Jerru O'Brien

[Gary Hair]

I think I will wait to get a CO2 extinguisher before trying any cutting!

You really don't want a CO2 extinguisher, you want a Halon instead. CO2 will destroy your laser and coat it with a layer of "stuff" that will take weeks to remove - halon is just a gas and leaves no residue. You'll pay about 5x as much for Halon, but it is worth it!

Gary

[Jacqui Marlin]

Gary, I'm confused. I was under the impression that the CO2 extinguisher is a gas and would not damage the machine or coat it with "stuff." I haven't heard of Halon. I plan to check with our local fire extinguisher dealer to find out more, but I would also like to hear what other people are using.

[Bob Keyes]

You are quite right. CO2 will form ice and it will evaporate like dry ice does. In fact, that's what it is. The only negative with CO2 is that the ice is conductive. Better if used after the power is off.

There is a new extinguisher out called Tundra by First Alert. Might be worth looking into. 3 times the extinguisher for about 20 bucks and it's in a spray can.

I've got 2 on the way to check out.

[Jacqui Marlin]

Something else to find out about! Thanks Bob. Will check on that too. Price sounds a lot better!

Rabbit HX3040

[Dave Jones]

CO2 will destroy your laser and coat it with a layer of "stuff" that will take weeks to remove

Not true. You are thinking about the "Normal" multi-purpose dry chemical fire extinguishers like you would buy at Home Depot. Those leave a coating that is not only hard to remove, but corrodes metal and electronics.

Halon fire extinguishers are no longer made in the US because the gas caused serious health risks when it hit flames. The replacement for it is known as "Halotron".

[Jacqui Marlin]

I looked up Tundra and it sure sounds like a good possibility. I played around a bit trying to put a sketch into NewlyDraw and reduce it from a large size to miniature size (since I will be doing some things in miniature). I learned that it doesn't translate well, but it is recognizable and I think on a nicer wood it would look a lot better than it does on basswood. Next time I will do something with simple lines that won't get lost! This engraving is 2.5 x 2"



Hope this works. I wasn't sure how to do photos here but one is the machine and the other is my first small engraving.

[Craig Hogarth]

There is a new extinguisher out called Tundra by First Alert. Might be worth looking into. 3 times the extinguisher for about 20 bucks and it's in a spray can.

Two of the active ingredients in Tundra are Potassium Hydroxide and Potassium Carbonate, both of which should not be introduced to any electronic equipment you'd like to keep working.

[Garry McKinney]

I agree with Craig.

And remember this the fastest way to stop a fire. Turn off the laser. Remover the heat source and the fire will go out.

Shut down the laser or pause it and spray a bit of water , fires out. I keep a windex bottle with water at the laser , starts to flame, pause spray and run .

It will have to be a good fire before I will set off the extingisher. And if I am watching that should not happen.

Garry

[Mike Hood]

A small CO2 bottle extinguisher would be best. It leaves NO residue.

If you get a small fire, a short burst will put it out. Even better... with the ventilation on it will carry the CO2 into exhaust and reduce the chance of it spreading. I'd secure power, start spraying the CO2 and then secure the blower. Once it's spun down, another quick few bursts and close the doors.

No way for a flame to live in an airtight space full on inert gas.

I second the idea of not using Halon. Bad stuff all around.

[Bill Cunningham]

'New' Halon is no longer available. If you have a halon system (very common in a boat engine compartment for example) can only be recharged with 'reclaimed' halon.. When all reclaimed halon is gone, your halon systems will be junk..FE-241, FM-200 are a non toxic Halon replacement but very expensive (as if halon isn't?) I have a 5lb halon system in my boat, and to replace it will cost me $370.00 Halotron1 is safe for computers, electronics and clean rooms. It leaves no residue after use and a 5lb unit is $165.00 at Westmarine..

[Mike Hood]

Just use CO2. Been using it for years in the military. Using Halon in today's world is irresponsible unless there's some reason you have to (manned space, etc).