Straightening Bent Handsaw Blades

[Glen Evans]

Thanks for the help Bob, I suspect that I've inadvertently work hardened the blade?? I also wondered if the small anvil I was using had too small a surface area, (4" x 6").

Either way, its disappointing to think I ruined the D12--that was the nicest flea market Disston I have found. Good info on the blade thickness comparison--I noticed that the blade was thinner than my D-8's but I didn't how much thinner the D12 was--particularly in comparison to the Warranted Superiors, (just my luck the two that I have are straight!)

I've learned a ton from these articles and appreciate your insights very much. I keep a printed copy of your filing and restoration articles with my sharpening files and jigs for quick access. They have helped me resurrect several old gems!

Again thanks
Glen

[Bob Easton]

Wonderful advice Bob. THANKS for being so generous with your knowledge!!!

I recently made a frame saw for resawing some cedar boat lumber. The first blade I used did a passable, but laborious job. Following your rehab instructions, I cut down a D-8 blade and tuned it up. (removed a kink, tempered the edge, jointed, refiled all teeth to 90*, tuned the set) That blade evolved from fairly good to wicked sharp. It works very well at resawing boards 10-11 inches wide, although that's a lot of work.

For regular ripping, such as removing the sapwood from a 4/4 flitch, the weight of the saw does ALL of the work.

Resawing boat lumber: http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=346

[george wilson]

Glen,do not entirely give up on your ruined saw until you try what we had talked about.Clamping it between steel plates and baking. I guess you haven't tried this yet,but it just might work. My only doubt is that we can afford the temperature to stress relieve the saw(can't get it red hot!) but, do try it anyway. Let me know how it turns out.