Router, Router Table, & Router Table Construction Questions...

[Owen Gregg]

Before I get started, I just wanted to let people know that I have searched past threads and received invaluable information from them; so thank you to everyone that has already indirectly guided me. I've decided to build my own router table and during the design process come up with some questions. The basic design revolves around a 24" x 36" top with the height ending up between 33"-35".

1. I don't have "good" DC in my shop, so should I build in a 2 1/2" DC system in the table and plan on upgrading to 4" once I get DC; or go ahead and set up DC for 4" and just use a 4"-2 1/2" reducer to be used with my shop vac?

1a. Anyone regret not putting DC at the fence as well as in the cabinet? I realize I need to allow for proper air flow.

2. I came upon a free Freud FT2000E, but have read they may have some issues spinning large diameter bits, aka not enough clearance. Since this table will be used quite a bit for raised panel doors, can anyone comment on this router's ability to do the job?

2a. Will I kick myself for not spending the money to go ahead a buy some kind of lift like the Router Razier (sp?).

3. Speaking of raised panel bits, I would like to hear from anyone who has a set they are happy with. I'm not going to scrimp on these bits, so if you could get what you wanted, what would you recommend?

4. My table is loosely modeled on Joe John's table available on the internet. He has a light in the cabinet and seems to like the feature quite a bit. My concern is having a bare bulb in a cabinet filled with dust, but I thought I would ask to see if anyone else has a light in their cabinet, if they like it, and what wattage bulb they use.

5. Odd question, what switches has everyone had luck with? Again, I will be using a shop vac for awhile, so suggestions as to what switches I could use to turn them both on would be great.

6. I plan on gluing 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF together for the top and also putting laminate on the table top. Question is, should I go ahead and put laminate on the bottom as well? The edges will be trimmed with whatever I decide to build this out of.

7. I'm not actually planning on finishing my cabinet for awhile. It will be operational, but lack any doors or drawers other than the section the router is mounted in. I've never had a RT before, so I figure by leaving it wide open, I can adjust my storage needs as I collect more treasures (Bits, templates, etc.). Then a year or two down the road, add a face frame (Or whatever) with all the drawers or doors I will need. Decent idea or go ahead and build the doors and drawers into it and use it as a learning experience for the next build?

Thanks ahead of time for all input.

[Jason Beam]

1. Start with what you want to end up at and adapt for your interim fix. This should be fine with a 4"-2 1/2" reducer.

1a. Yes. Get it on the fence, too. It won't get everything, because cutting grooves and dados will still spew dust out the back of the thing. Other operations will benefit GREATLY, though. Profiling an edge with the bit burried in the fence, for example.

2. I have no input here, sorry.

2a. Since this depends on your style and the router's built-in abilities, I don't think I could opine much here, either.

3. I don't have any yet, but when I do, they'll be Whiteside. No doubt about it. Experience and reputation are my biggest reasons.

4. You can ask joe directly if you like, contact me back-channel if you wanna bug him - I don't have a light, but i have a polycarbonate panel in my door and have plenty of light through that.

5. For awhile, I had a duplex outlet with a standard light switch on mine. Then I threw on a speed control. I just got my new switch (now that I have VS) from rockler - search for model number 20915

6. YES - absolutely. It's a lot of work to build a table, having that top cup on you when the humidity changes would be discouraging to say the least. I did exactly what you're thinking of and am glad I did. I made some zero-clearance inserts and only laminated the top ... they were useless a month later when the seasons changed... bananas don't make a good ZCI :P

7. Wise move. In fact, don't go nuts on features at first. I usually tell folks to just slap a router on a scrap of plywood and grab a 2x4 as a fence until you know what you really want. It sounds silly, but it really does help

And now for my shameless plug .. just in case it didn't turn up in your search results:

http://sacramentoareawoodworkers.com...ls.php?album=8

This is my table - the 3rd i ever owned. My first was store-bought. My 2nd was my practice shop-built. This one was the one i decided to go nuts with. It should last me a good long time, i hope!

[Tom Clark FL]

I've decided to build my own router table and during the design process come up with some questions.
.

Owen,
Here are two photos of the table I built about 15 years ago.
Top is 30x36 formica covered. A dedicated shop vac is used thru back of cabinet. Router is a Porter Cable 1.5 hp and has plenty of power. This table was built long before "lifts" and I have never seen an need for one. The hole in the top of the table is 1.75" and allows 100% of dust and 98% of chips to dissappear. I would never use large diameter router bits as I have a fear of large pieces of carbide getting burried in my gut. I admit that I have a shaper for raised panel cutters, but when making them on a router table I would only consider using the smaller diameter vertical cutters. (30+ years as a tool and die maker has show me what happens when a large cutter goes too fast.)

The router and dust collector are wired into a regular double wall switch just on the right front of the cabinet to make turning router and dust collector on and off. My top is 3/4" oak ply with a doubler around the edges and middle. Top is still flat after all these years. (I hate mdf because it always warps.) My fence is 9" high, but can be removed in seconds to mount another fence on the table.

Tom

[Chuck Lenz]

MDF warps ? Thats news to me. Personally I think a plywood surface is too wavey.

[Bill Hylton]

Dare I recommend buying a copy of the revised Woodworking with the Router? I think you'll find it a worthwhile investment, even if I do say so myself. In the book, you'll see several of the router tables I've built; complete plans for my current Alpha Table begin on page 81.

The book has a full chapter on router table design with information on choosing a router for a table, lifts, mounting approaches, tabletop construction, and other pertinent topics. In addition, there's a chapter on accessories for the router table and on one router table operations.


If I were going to build a router table today—this afternoon—I'd make the tabletop of a single piece of 3/4" MDF screwed to a supporting frame (like the one on my Alpha Table). The frame—provided its top edges are flat and true—will keep the MDF from sagging. I'd mount the router directly to the tabletop. Applying plastic laminate is a good idea, and if you cover one face, cover them both.

I'd make a simple stand and hinge the support frame to the stand, so it (the frame) bears the weight of the tabletop and router and fence, rather than having it born by the MDF. The hinges allow you to tilt up the tabletop, giving you unobstructed access to the router. As time goes on, shelves and drawers, some sort of dust collection, a separate switch, even casters can be added to the stand.

Good luck in your endeavor,

Bill

[Mark Kelly 92040]

Dare I recommend buying a copy of the revised Woodworking with the Router?

If I were going to build a router table today—this afternoon—I'd make the tabletop of a single piece of 3/4" MDF screwed to a supporting frame (like the one on my Alpha Table).

Bill

Bill,

I have been reading your book and am planning to build my router table following your plans. (The book is very well done, by the way. ) I'm curious why you said you'd use a single piece of 3/4" MDF for the top since your plan calls for 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF with the supporting frame? (Anything to save a little work and lumber. )

[Jim O'Dell]

Bill, your post doesn't bother me in the least, but don't be surprised if it gets pulled, with the goings on in the turning forum about what is advertising and what is not. Jim.

[Curt Harms]

I'm not sure why everyone thinks a bit must fit all the way through a base. I use a 3 1/2" panel raising bit with a Freud FT2000 with no problem. First off, my plate is 1/4" thick and the panel raising bit can fit through the largest opening in the plate without a problem. When I use the raised panel bit, I set the fence so the panel isn't feeding so as to touch the bearing but is only cutting along a portion of the bit. When I've done all 4 sides, I move the fence back to expose more of the raised panel bit. I suppose if I were to want a very shallow cut and full width of the cutter I'd have a problem, but that hasn't happened yet. I'm not sure making a raised panel in one pass with a router would be good for either the router or the quality of the cut. With a shaper, perhaps I have no experience there.

I hope that makes sense.

Curt

[Owen Gregg]

Hey,

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Curt, I've only read of the problem, I haven't experienced it. I just took the whole router with me to the store and it doesn't appear as though it will give me any problems.

Bill, thanks for the info and book title. I'll definitely see if I can find itat Amazon. The frame underneath sounds like a great idea, and I might have enough scrap to get it done. Just beginning some serious planning an researching, and all you guys are giving me great sources of information.

Tom, I like the idea of a tall fence that would allow me to use vertical raised panel bits. I'd honestly never read of any of the other bits throwing shrapnel. Definitely something I'm going to keep in mind. I'm thinking I might just wait on buying some sort of lift too. It doesn't sound too hard to add on later.

Jason, Love your table. I had come across it in my searches. I had been leaning toward either Whiteside or the Freud bit set. From the way Joe talks, he LOVES the under table light, which is why I was curious as to whether or not anyone else had incorporated it into their table. The switch you mention is what I was looking for. I think I may try to order one soon. In the meantime, I might just go ahead and take your advice and hang it off a piece of plywood for the time being while I'm waiting for and reading Bill's book. Thanks again for the input.

[Mark Duginske]

Bill,

I have not talked to you since I called you about SketchUp since we both had an article in the Feb 2007 issue of Woodworker's Journal.

It was interesting to see your post. Be careful about mentioning your book.

I got a pm yesterday from one of the guys at SMC:

"We've also had complaints that you're using posts to promote your book. It would appear to me that you are trying hard not to do that, but it is a tricky business at times. So, if I'm correct and you're trying not to promote, keep in mind that some are reading as promoting your book, and be careful."

In the same group of emails I got a note from my friend Aaron Gesicki,
who is a foremost expert in metallurgy, who I use as a consultant with this comment:

"I suspect you're beginning to experience the same sort of thing that caused me to abandon almost all website participation - too many people delivering misinformation, and having it believed and reinforced by most of the others. Then, when truth and reason enter in, it's attacked as heresy."

OH, by the way, I have enjoyed your books and all of your hard work providing good information. A lot of people think that authors get rich but don't realized that per hour they would make more money working at McDonalds.

Mark Duginske

[Andrew Williams]

I have been using the inet since 92, and this is just part of reality when it comes to free exchange of ideas. Some ideas are supported by facts, some are not, but all are given the same presentation. Very democratic (for better or worse).

If those who feel unappreciated choose to leave, then we all suffer as a result. You are always going to have to deal with people who want to knock you down. It is best to ignore them but don't leave.

[Quesne Ouaques]

Hello Mark and Bill:

I own books by both of you and I have -- and do still -- enjoy them immensely.

I've been following some of the recent posts regarding advertisements and authors' postings. At the risk of leading this thread off-topic, I have some relevant personal experience that I thought I would share.

I make regular postings on several websites including a few on which I would be considered an academic expert on the subject matter (FYI - NOT woodworking :-). I have experienced exactly the same sort of thing that your friend Aaron Gesicki has described.

An honest question will pop up on the board, and fifteen or twenty people (usually the same ones every time) post all sorts of unsupported jabber and misinformation that came straight out of their hats (or somewhere else I won't mention). They usually seem to be the locally recognized "experts" on that particular discussion forum as witnessed by the volumes of their postings.

Then I -- or someone else -- will decide to offer a simple posting in an attempt to clear the air with facts or first-hand experience and...BANG! All twenty people jump on top of the poster (just like "Dogpile on the Rabbit" from the cartoon) and offer their views on why you must be an idiot (even though they have never met you) and why your ideas are worthless (even though they offer no evidence to challenge your posting). Often they support each other and prop up each other's posts regardless of the content. This tends to intensify and personalize the attacks.

True that this phenomenon is "democratic", but it seems to me to be more primal than that. Some people see on-line discussions as their source of community recognition and personal validation. When they are faced with a challenge to their "power" on the forum, they will search for any way to knock the real expert(s) out of the box. 9 times out of 10, the real experts have better things to do with their time, so they back off and leave to dogs to fight over their scraps.

I do not see it as a very positive force. It certainly makes a true expert think twice about taking the time to offer his/her opinion on any subject. I certainly hope that a similar thing does not happen on SMC and the other woodworking forums.

[Henk Marais]

Even thou I am new to Internet Forums, I have the following View:

Bill Did not just give the books name he also gave some verry informative advise. I would much rather get advise from a guy who know enought about the subject to get it published, than from a person who think he should contribute just to get his post count up. Now I know that you cant believe everything that is in print (I use to be in the Newspaper industry) but surely the guy speaks with some authoroty.

We all come to these sites to get free Info and are greatfull for ALL responses because this gives us choices. But we are all individuals and the prorogitive remaigns with each off us to make our own desisions. If you choose to build your Router table from only the info you get of the site then that is up to you, but me personally will spend the extra cash on a published journal (probably more than one) before I build somthing as potentialy hazardous as a router table.

Thanks for the Info bill - I also will be ordering your book over the Internet.

[Dan Clark]

Bill,

I have the latest editon of your book and find it to be the best source of router info available. It is head and shoulders above other router books. Above all, the book (like your post) focuses on what is really important and not what will sell more router stuff.

Regarding your post above, I believe it has added much value to this thread and should be retained. I've copied it below for posterity (just in case).

Regards,

Dan.

Dare I recommend buying a copy of the revised Woodworking with the Router? I think you'll find it a worthwhile investment, even if I do say so myself. In the book, you'll see several of the router tables I've built; complete plans for my current Alpha Table begin on page 81.

The book has a full chapter on router table design with information on choosing a router for a table, lifts, mounting approaches, tabletop construction, and other pertinent topics. In addition, there's a chapter on accessories for the router table and on one router table operations.

If I were going to build a router table today—this afternoon—I'd make the tabletop of a single piece of 3/4" MDF screwed to a supporting frame (like the one on my Alpha Table). The frame—provided its top edges are flat and true—will keep the MDF from sagging. I'd mount the router directly to the tabletop. Applying plastic laminate is a good idea, and if you cover one face, cover them both.

I'd make a simple stand and hinge the support frame to the stand, so it (the frame) bears the weight of the tabletop and router and fence, rather than having it born by the MDF. The hinges allow you to tilt up the tabletop, giving you unobstructed access to the router. As time goes on, shelves and drawers, some sort of dust collection, a separate switch, even casters can be added to the stand.

Good luck in your endeavor,

Bill