Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Loc-Line for a belt/disc sander hood?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673

    Loc-Line for a belt/disc sander hood?

    I was browsing PSI's catalog last night looking for a hood that I could use on both parts of the belt/disc combo. I'd seen and forgotten Loc-Line but saw the 2-1/2" setup in PSI's catalog that I think would work. I searched past Loc-Line threads and I think all the ones I saw were using it on a DP (one mention of TS use). So now I've got more questions.

    Has anyone used one on a belt or disc sander with a hood, and if so does it work OK?

    I also read in some of those past posts, that going down to 2-1/2" on a cyclone wasn't advisable, but then saw others saying that if this is combined with a 4" port I'd be OK?
    I was planning on hooking 4" to the combo sander port then taking a Wye off and stepping it down to the Loc-Line to point a hood at whichever half of the machine I'm using. Sound OK?

    Does anyone know if PVC S&D Wye fittings are made where one side is 2-1/2" or even 3"? I saw ones at Lowes yesterday like this for the other type of PVC fittings but haven't seen anything there or online that would fit S&D fittings. I'm sure I could piece-meal something together, but would rather use a single fitting if they make one. I've got room on the machine to use mostly PVC and leave it attached then just use a short flex hose to connect that up to the downtube.
    Use the fence Luke

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Splendora, TX
    Posts
    703
    Doug, I put the 2 1/2" Lock-Line set up on my DP, this is connected to a 2hp Oneida cyclone at a 4" drop..........I'm not a bit satisfied with the performance of this set up in fact I actually have stopped using it to try and pull shavings at the bit and have adjusted the pick-up so that I can "rake" the shavings directly into the hood.

    Don't get me wrong the overall performance of the Oneida DC has been outstanding but the reduction to the 2 1/2" just hasn't worked for me.

    Just a quick second thought.......while I am trying to pick-up large forestner bit shavings your just going to be pulling dust, this may work fine in this capacity
    Last edited by David Duke; 08-12-2007 at 8:06 AM. Reason: added another thought
    David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    Dave
    Yours is only running into the 2-1/2"? That would seem to match the other negative comments I saw. But I'd be running both the 4" and 2-1/2" at the same time. Some of the other posts I saw seemed to say that was OK?

    But the other item I haven't looked at yet is doing a hood for the DP. So your input is much appreciated.
    Use the fence Luke

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Splendora, TX
    Posts
    703
    I had actually forgot to say that I have a wye on the 4" with a 4" going straight to my DP table (it is set up so that it acts kind of like a downdraft table) the other branch is the 2 1/2" line.

    Attached is a like to the DP; the 4" is coming into the bottom of the table
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...5&d=1133909650
    David

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    David
    Thanks. Think I'll follow your advice and Just Say No to El Loco-Line. Too bad they dont make a 4" version of that.
    Use the fence Luke

  6. Quote Originally Posted by David Duke View Post
    Doug, I put the 2 1/2" Lock-Line set up on my DP, this is connected to a 2hp Oneida cyclone at a 4" drop..........I'm not a bit satisfied with the performance of this set up in fact I actually have stopped using it ...
    David,
    Did you use a 4" to 2 1/2" step down plate (e.g. 4" connector tube with a flat plate that has a 2 1/2" tube opening on the face) or did you go with a conical transition tube from 4 to 2 1/2? The former are known to cause terrible eddies at the face of the step down, which will kill velocity. Just curious. I'm about to do the same setup for my drill press (4 to 2 1/2).

    Filippo

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,923
    Maybe using two of them joined to a 4" drop would work better...raises the cost, but provides more air to feed the DC and better performance all around.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Splendora, TX
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by Filippo Morelli View Post
    David,
    Did you use a 4" to 2 1/2" step down plate (e.g. 4" connector tube with a flat plate that has a 2 1/2" tube opening on the face) or did you go with a conical transition tube from 4 to 2 1/2? The former are known to cause terrible eddies at the face of the step down, which will kill velocity. Just curious. I'm about to do the same setup for my drill press (4 to 2 1/2).

    Filippo
    Filippo, it is the reducer with the flat face, that may be the problem but it definitely doesn't work well at all as is.
    David

Similar Threads

  1. Drum Sanders, Wide Belt Sanders & a few design obervations...
    By Dev Emch in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 12-10-2008, 5:50 PM
  2. Sander gloat and gripe
    By Dan Oelke in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-24-2006, 11:28 AM
  3. Wild ride with a Ridgid sander
    By Jay Knepper in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 07-15-2005, 9:16 PM
  4. The USDA Bottom Line on Poly Glue
    By Bob Smalser in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-31-2005, 11:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •