Fitting inset doors

[Peter Pedisich]

I've never made a project with inset doors but I got myself in deep on this one...
2 file drawers and a bi-fold door for a desk and I've never fitted inset doors.
They are about 1/16" to 3/32" larger than the openings, and the cabinets are only about 1/32 out of square.
I downloaded a pdf article from FWW online and it shows a tablesaw/jointer method.

Does anyone have any favorite ways to do this?

Thanks,

Pete

[Matt Meiser]

The way I've done it is to get them to JUST fit into the openings. Then I decide where "centered" is and use a couple wedges to hold it it place and use a straight edge to mark off where the final edges should be. If only a little needs to come off, use a hand plane. If more needs to come off, I've used the jointer, table saw, and most recently my EZ Smart rail which is probably my new favorite method because I can line up right on the line, regardless of whether it is perpendicular to any other side.

[Joel Sloan]

When I do this in the field I use a router with a straight bit guided by a bearing. I simply draw the line on the door and clamp a straight edge right on the line, the router bit cuts exactly to the line because the bearing follows the straight edge. There are lots of ways to fit inset doors, this way allows you to cut the door to fit the opening exactly, even if that means the sides of the doors are not parallel. I hope this helps.

Joel Sloan

[Michael Schwartz]

Router, Pattern Bit, and Strait Edge.

Or the Neander Method of a Hand-plane.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I like to make the door the same size as the opening. Then I use my jointer to get the door height just right. I use pennies for my spacers to get all the spaces even. After the height is correct I work on the width and get it so the door just fits in the space but tight. Then I mount the hinges and mount the door. I use a small block plane to get the width so the door closes and the spaces are all even, or as even as possible. I hope this helps but just do it slowly and carefully and you'll catch on. Just don't take too much off at a time so you get nice even reveals all around the door.

[Gail O'Rourke]

Oh, I like the penny idea - I have used playing cards before. I will also use my Festool if I have to make a slightly less than straight cut. It will be worth the work, I think inset doors look nice and they are very rewarding.

Good luck.

[Gary Muto]

I've always liked the look of inset doors and Drawers. You don't see them much and it is a sign of craftsmanship to me, similar to dovetails. The information here is helping me to get the courage to include it in my future projects. I'm new to the Creek and have learned a lot already.
Thanks to All!!

[Jim Becker]

If you are really particular, one should consider the species and it's potential for seasonal movement as well as the current season and temp/humidity conditions before deciding on the actual gap while building the project. That 1/16" gap "now" could become wider later or even close up completely in another season with some woods. (I've seen this in action on a few of my own doors over time...)

That said, I often use a piece of plastic laminate as a spacer for thinner gaps and two piece (about 1/16") for wider ones...

[Reg Mitchell]

I try to fit mine to the thickness of a dime if I am useing solid wood so the door can swell and srink. To get them to fit good get the bottom and the hinge side paraell to the ajointing rail and stile. the rest is history.
Reg

[Mark Ball]

I too use a penny for inset drawers. It seems to leave a good reveal.

[Mark Singer]

With solid wood and a tight fitting door it is best to install them wide and wait a couple of weeks and plane the leading edge in place. This is if the grain is verticle as the door hangs

[Ben Grunow]

I agree with all mentioned above especially waiting to plane the doors if possible.

When building painted cabinetry that is to be painted by others (house painter frequently paints my work after installed) I prefer to leave a little more than a penny to account for the thickness of the paint coats.

I also use a rectangle of plywood that I know to be square to eye up the door opening before starting to fit doors. THis allows me to know what to expect when the work begins. Just hold it up to each corner to see how square the cabinet is and go from there.

[glenn bradley]

Another penny guy here. Like cutting your motise and then fine tuning the tenon to fit; I fit the doors and drawer fronts to the opening as is being suggested.

[Jeff Wright]

I used the penny spacer approach and found the reveal about perfect. I'm afraid the dime would leave too small a reveal, especially once paint or finish is applied. I chose to use the hand plane to make the final fitting adjustments. It allowed me to remove small amounts at a time and control the removal of material. Hinges were traditional butt type with mortises. See post at

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62552

[Martin Shupe]

If you leave a penny's thickness on top, consider leaving a nickel's width on the bottom. Eventually, the door will sag, and the extra space will keep it from dragging.

A handplane is the best way I can think of to get the fit perfect.