[OP]
Contributor
Saw a thread today here and I realized I'd been wondering about the difference between a regular palm sander and a Random Orbital Sander (ROS). I have two sanders, both 1/4 sheet palm sanders, a DeWalt D26441 and a Makita BO4556K. Obviously, I'm thrifty thus the 1/4 sheet sanders. What am I missing by not having a Random Orbital Sander (ROS)?
Member
I have an old Rockwell 1/4 sheet sander. PC makes the same sander now. It doesn't have dust collection and you can see little swirls sometimes after I use it but it does a pretty good job. It has a cast aluminum frame and seems like it will last forever. But it doesn't sand as quickly as my ROSs, doesn't do as good a job as my ROS and it's more work to change paper. But when my Milwaukee ROS broke I used it some before getting a 5 inch DeWalt. The lack of dust collection is a big deal nowdays.
I also tried a 1/4 sheet Rigid once and it was purely junk. Wouldn't do much of anything. I do not know how your DeWalt and Makita compare but if they are as good as my Rockwell and have dust collection, they are a decent option. But you might want to do a little hand sanding at the end to eliminate the swirls.
Member
The difference between a 1/4 sheet orbital and a ROS is huge. One is a like torture to use, the other is actually palatable. A quality half sheet sander is also useful but don't come cheap.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
[OP]
Contributor
Van,Originally Posted by Van Huskey
Who makes a "quality half sheet sander"?
Mike
Moderator
They are both useful tools with somewhat different priorities. A good 1/4 sheet is great for fine finish sanding and getting into square corners. A ROS is more optimal for general sanding up through the grits and over larger areas.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
Festool and Makita make good half sheet sanders ($410 and about $180) but keep in mind a 6" or longer stroke 5" ROS is more of a general purpose sander and the half sheet orbital more of a finish sander for large flat areas. For most woodworkers if you could only have one hand power sander the 6" ROS makes the most sense.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Member
We use a makita in the shop. Works well. But it is for fine finish sanding only.
Andrew J. Coholic
Contributor
Mike, I realize this isnt what you asked, but have you considered using a hand plane instead of a sander? I use a #4 finishing plane and get a better surface than I ever did with sandpaper. My electric sander has been gathering dust for 3 years since I discovered this tool.
Might be food for thought, anyway.
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Member
I started out years ago with a 1/4 sheet sander. I hated it before there was an alternative. Get a 6" ROS and you will be set, I don't use my 5" any more.
Member
While I use a full variety of planes and scrapers and they do provide a lot of options there are two issues for someone new (or even seasoned) in their use:
1. They require a time and monetary investment to sharpen and become proficient with that is likely well above a new mid-range ROS
2. There are some jobs planes simply can't do like intermediate and final sanding of a film finish
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Contributor
Interesting`suggestion Fred. I've never seen anyone suggest this before. I cut my teeth in a very good professional shop here in Pennsylvania and for us scrapers were used on machined wood and then followed by ROS and then hand sanding. If we were trying to duplicate the 18th century process (the shop did reproductions and restorations of 18th century pieces) we would always use scrapers, usually Stanley #80's. The cutting of a plane blade should, I think, give a much different result then a piece of sandpaper.
Member
It does. I think about it this way a hand plane leaves a gloss finish, a scraper semi-gloss (closer to matte) and sandpaper a matte finish. If you are decent with a plane it is faster as well especially if you have a lot of grits to go through with the sander. With a non-film finish it makes a lot of difference in the final appearance with a film finish it makes little if any difference. It also makes a lot of difference in the way stains and dyes penetrate the wood. For me it is just another option.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Contributor
Yeah Van, I hear you and those are valid points - finishing planes aren't plug-n-play like sanders mostly are. There are relatively inexpensive ways to sharpen, but they still take time to learn. I wouldn't personally be comfortable using a power tool on film finishes. I want hands on there to keep from sanding through. But that's just what works for me. I know everybody works differently though. I'm by no means a guru at finishing, for certain.
Fred
Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 01-07-2017 at 6:32 PM.
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Contributor
It works very well for me John, on the things I like to build. I use it with oil and film finishes and I like the results I get. Van's point is valid - it's certainly another option.
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Member
The only downside I have experienced using planes to finish a surface is that you need to stick to that method for all surfaces, or else the contrast between planed and sanded surfaces can be noticeable. Although this might seems obvious it isn't always easy to avoid sandpaper with curved parts, or fixing blemishes in tight spaces ect. I mostly use oil finishes which probably doesn't help either.
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