Pattern Cutting bit method

[Steven Triggs]

Today I was using a pattern cutting bit to cut some pieces of oak. I used double sided tape to attach my pattern that I'd made of masonite. When I was finished, the residue left on the oak by the double sided tape was very difficult to remove, even with sanding. Do people use a special type of tape that doesn't leave residue? Alternatively, do you suggest an alternate method of accomplishing the same result without the mess?

[Steve Clardy]

I put my pattern on top if using a router table.

I usually use a couple of small finish nails to hold it on.

[John Thompson]

Evening Steve...

I'm assuming (?) you are using an over-head bearing pattern bit. If the stock is large enough that clamps won't interfere with the router place movement.. I just clamp the template on top.

If a small piece, I use two short finish nails.. drill a tiny pilot hole and then nail the template down. I use 1/2" MDF for pattern templates as it is easy to shape.. file.. rasp.. sand to shape. Once removed I put a drop of water on the finish nail holes and let them swell shut. If they won't completely close a dab of wood filler mixed with saw-dust from the stock being cut does the trick.

Regards...

Sarge..

[Bob DiGiacomo]

try a hot glue gun

[Michael Schwartz]

I use a top bearing bit on a table, and I usualy just drop the presure down on my brad gun and shoot a few brads in so that the heads are just sticking out, and I can yank them off with a pair of carpenters pliers.

In an open pored wood, you will hardly notice the holes left by the brads.

I used to screw them on but it is too much work when you want to make 50 parts off that template.

[Gary Keedwell]

Today I was using a pattern cutting bit to cut some pieces of oak. I used double sided tape to attach my pattern that I'd made of masonite. When I was finished, the residue left on the oak by the double sided tape was very difficult to remove, even with sanding. Do people use a special type of tape that doesn't leave residue? Alternatively, do you suggest an alternate method of accomplishing the same result without the mess?

Maybe some of that goop off stuff or some acetone? Mineral spirits?

Gary K.

[David DeCristoforo]

The adhesive on DS tape is a PITA to remove. Lacquer thinner is about the least toxic stuff I have found that will actually disolve it. When I can, I do what Steve said and use a couple of brads. When I can't or don't want to do that, I have a small hot melt glue gun that works well. The glue is much easier to get off.

[Allen Bookout]

I have seen demos where rubber cement was used for that purpose. I was going to try it once and purchased some but when I got home the glue was dried up. I guess that the top was not on tight at the store. Now that I think about it I may give it a shot again. Anyone here use that method?

[Jim McFarland]

I've had good results with the Duo-stick brand. Quick search shows this as a double-sided painters tape used to hang dropcloth. I think I bought at Lowe's but should be available in most paint stores. As an aside, the search also revealed a scroll saw forum where one of the posts warned to avoid the double-sided carpet tape found at the home centers.

I've used Duo-stick with oak, poplar, walnut, and cherry (usually MDF templates) --- maybe just lucky but I've never had a problem with residue. I do use new tape with each new piece of stock as it does not hold well at all after the 1st use.

[glenn bradley]

I have no problems with residue from this stuff:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=double%20tape

I just happened to pick it up one day while at the store. I have some other type which is even thinner (as in you can see through it). I haven't tried it yet but there is a warning not to leave it on too long as it attempts to become permanent. Knowing me I will probably test that theory and have a good "Duh!" post to go along with it.

Carpet tape and so forth I do not care for; too thick, spongy and leaves goo behind. Regular old Ronson lighter fluid will break down most adhesives without adverse effects to the material.

[Steven Triggs]

Thanks everyone for the great ideas, looks like I've got a lot of alternatives to try next time! I didn't previously think to specify my method, which a few of you seemed to be wondering about. I was doing this on a router table with the style of bit that has the bearing on the end away from the router, having you put the pattern on top.

I've used Duo-stick with oak, poplar, walnut, and cherry (usually MDF templates) --- maybe just lucky but I've never had a problem with residue.

Jim,
I had never heard of a double-sided painter's tape. This sounds great. I would guess you've had good results because it is designed to be temporary, where the stuff I was using is that thick, spongy stuff that I guess is meant to be left in place.