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Thread: new Longworth chuck

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    282
    Jerry, I made one of those a few years ago, and just a couple of weeks ago i made another. I turned the buttons for mine on my pen mandrel so i could shape them the way i wanted with more taper so as to grip better, then i diped them along with the head of the bolt in what is called plasti dip it is what they dip plier handles and the like in to give a cushion effect, i diped them 3 or 4 times to get a really good coating. It works as good as can be and is as fool proof as you can get. I use it all the time. I made mine out of 3/4 and 1/4 ply.
    Wally

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Texas, ILL.
    Posts
    1,202
    Just another good link, which may also be helpful.

    http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...cles_485.shtml

    Check the other link I posted in this thread, look on pg. 2.
    Last edited by Bill Stevener; 08-20-2007 at 8:17 PM. Reason: fixed link

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Marquette Heights, Illinois
    Posts
    2,945
    Thanks Bill. I missed that it consisted of TWO pieces.

    Bruce
    "The great thing about Wood Turning is that all you have to do is remove what's not needed to have something beautiful. Nature does tha Hard work."

    M.H. Woodturning, Etc.
    Peoria, Illinois 61554

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Shiverdecker View Post
    Not to be crabby, but, How do you keep the feet aliged so that the piece is centered? Looks like they act independently, not in unison like a scroll chuck does.

    Bruce
    I would assume you could also help center it the same was as when using a a friction chuck. Use the tail stock and the center point on the foot of the piece that was left from earlier turning to center and hold the piece against the chuck until the feet are tightened.
    Last edited by Paul Heely; 08-21-2007 at 7:54 AM. Reason: fix typo

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Posts
    291
    Very well done, Jerry.

    Some suggestions from my experience:
    1. Cut some half-holes on the perimeter of the back disk. A Forstner bit works fine for half-holes. This enables rotating the front disk with one hand while holding the bowl with the other. (pic 1 - bowl absent)

    2. Add a fender washer at the back disk to help the bolt stay perpendicular to the surfaces of the disks. Also, a snug retainer on the end of the bolt can avoid losing the wing nut when (not if) it gets too loose. A slot cut in the end of the bolt facilitates tightening the bolt for expansion mode, i.e. for an undercut rim. (pic 2 - washer was DIY HDPE; the retainer was micro-surgery on a wire nut.)

    3. When tightening the bolts, work diametrically as for tightening lug nuts on a car wheel, vs. working around the circle. This helps to maintain a concentric condition on the compressed buttons.

    4. A couple wraps of duct tape across the bowl to the back of the back disk is good insurance against a free-flying satellite. BTDT. Most finishes won't be harmed by brief contact with the tape adhesive.

    Joe
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #21
    Good tips, Joe and Wally

  7. #22
    i would like the pdf as well good job by the way

  8. #23
    Donnie, this thread is four years old, and I doubt you will get a response. The .pdf file is posted in the thread and downloadable if you are a contributor. It probably is not viewable by you with a member status.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Severna Park, Maryland
    Posts
    1
    Jerry,
    I would like the cdr file please.
    Lou Prugh

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