Help With Antique Oil

[Larry McCumber]

Not a good picture, but posted to show high gloss. I used Minwax antique oil but have not buffed yet. Instructions say to apply generous coat of oil and buff with clean cloth after 5 to 10 minutes. My bowl was still very sticky after this time period. Do you still buff anyway? When you buff on Beall system, do you use all three wheels or just the wax wheel? All help appreciated.
Don't know what the wood is. Something I picked up at last club raffle.

Thanks,
Larry

http://home.comcast.net/~jaxman43/DSCN0826.png

[Gary DeWitt]

Perhaps "buff" is an unfortunate term for Minwax to use on their can. What they mean is WIPE of excess after a few minutes. When you do this, the wood will be only slightly sticky, and can even be put on a paper towel and not stick if the wood is not too heavy. All buffing, rubbing out, polishing, etc. of a finish happens only when that finish has CURED, rather than dried. Time varies with finish, but it's been reported by one of the top turners here that he buffed a piece as soon as the next day. Most oil finishes, like boiled linseed oil, tung oil, oil/varnish, etc. need to cure for at least 72 hours if not a week. Power buff before that and you risk tearing up your finish and ruining your wheel!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Larry....I've really come to like Antique Oil. What I usually do is wipe it on...If an area dries in the first 10 minutes...I wipe more in that area....I'll Typically do the outside of the bowl say one evening and then place the bowl inverted on a tall can overnight. The next morning I'll put antique oil on the inside of the bowl and after 15 minutes lightly wipe off the excess. And I'll let the inside dry until that evening. Depending on how "deep" I want the finish, I'll repeat this process a couple of times. After the last coat has dried overnight, I'll buff it. Keep in mind, I live in an area that has quite low humidity and things dry a whole lot faster here..including wood!

[Larry McCumber]

Thanks for both of the answers. The clarification of "wiping excess" as apposed to lightly "buffing" helps a lot. Ken, I like your process and will try that next. I'm having to bring the piece inside for some of the drying - it's 100+ degrees in the garage.

Larry

[Barbara Gill]

Larry if the finish sets up too much again, you can often soften it back up enough to wipe off by adding more oil or some of whatever the carrier is. If the finish has set up so much that you still cannot wipe it off, try using a little fine steel wool along with the finish or solvent to help things along.