Best Way to Clean my New(ok Old) Tools

[Andy Korfin]

I have recently purchased a used Craftsman 10" TS and Grizzly 6" Jointer.

They both could use a bit of cleanup mostly of the non-painted surfaces as you can see in the photos. I tried steel wool but that hasn't seemed to
make much of a change so I wanted to see if there were any more ideas
out there on SMC.

Thanks,

Andy

[David May 01]

I have used WD40 to penetrate the surface rust, then use the steel wool to clean the surface. While your at it squirt all moving parts to get some lubrication to the dry points such as your fence bolts and such.

You may not get some stains out, but the surface should be clean and usable. Good Luck.

[Chuck Lenz]

And when your all done cleaning the non-painted surfaces don't forget to apply some Johnsons paste floor wax or Minwax paste floor wax to those surfaces if you want to keep them looking good.

[CPeter James]

I like PB BLaster and "greenies" The green scrubbing pads from 3M. You can get PB Blaster at Walmart or auto supply stores. They don't have the big name recognition of WD40, but the old tractor guys like me like it better for desolving rust. I put the greenie on the bottom of my ROS and go for it. If you don't want the swirl marks, do it by hand. After you get most of the rust off, you can go through the wet/dry sandpaper grits up to about 400 or 600, again using the PB Blaster as a lubricant. With a little effort, you can almost make it look like a PM66 with a mirror shine.





CPeter

[Robert Conner]

I have used a Razor Blade to scrape the rust first then WD40 with a Scotch pad and then Wax.
The Razor blade removes all the "powder surface rust" and then makes the WD40 and Scotchpad work easier.
Robert

[Brian Weick]

Andy,
Without damaging the machined planned surface and getting results you won't believe-My machinist helped me with some tips on my Oliver lathe restoration. I didn't want to damage any part of my lathe-due to the age and value of it so i thought he would be a good source for information on the renovation, after all he is a machinist. I wasn't sure at first but after a tried it there was no looking back. He told me to use use a wire twist wheel attached to an angle grinder with high RP M's - It will clean that surface up in no time ,it actually has the results of 400 grit sandpaper and won't remove the surface or damage the part, it just cleans it very well, (wear a mask- that dust will fly all over the place) then he said to use use a buffing rouge after, on a lower rpm buffing tool-the setting (the compound recommended speed), not only to get a nice shine to it but , it helps seal the surface- if you don't want to bother with the buffing use paste wax (Johnson's) and that does a great job keeping moisture out on all the exposed areas. You don't realize that with all the time using a steel wool pad or scrubber that you are actually working areas uneven if there is a lot of rust on it, you are doing the same thing with the wire twist wheel and it does a much better job as far as an even process on the entire surface not to mention cleaning everything up like a new surface - he was absolutely correct! If this was a metal lathe- you never grind,sand,scrape any part of the bed of the lathe he said- you would be fired! wheels/handles/bolts -OK, but never the bed, the best you can do is steel wool the bed- limited applications and a metal sealer lubricant. what ever you feel comfortable with- do that, but try it on something else if your concerned about this method- you will be surprised with the results.
Brian

[Kermit Hodges]

Cleaned some Brian's way before and it will work too.

Usually just use a ROS and depending on the rust start with anywhere from a 50 grit (yes 50) to a 120 grit. It will make small scratches for about 30 seconds then it will smooth out. I have done tables start to finish with an 80 grit. They look new too. I know it sounds crazy.

For yours, no worse than are. A 120 or 180 grit will finish it up just fine. Wax it after your done. You can go on with finer grits, but once that coarser disks wears just a little bit, you won't be able to tell any difference. I gave up on finer grits expect on really bad tables, which your are not.

[Jim Heffner]

Get some scotchbrite pads and WD-40, use the scotchbrite pads on your ROS, spray on the WD-40 and keep sanding the rust away till it disappears.After, removing the rust, wipe off the surface with some clean dry rags, and then use Johnson's or Minwax pastewax, a couple of good coats of wax and then buff it out....the cast iron will shine like new money and will be good to go. Jim Heffner

[Dave Dionne]

I have used the scotch brite pads and WD40 when I bought my used jointer and it worked well for me also, don't forget to wax.

Good luck

[Michael Schwartz]

Andy,
Without damaging the machined planned surface and getting results you won't believe-My machinist helped me with some tips on my Oliver lathe restoration. I didn't want to damage any part of my lathe-due to the age and value of it so i thought he would be a good source for information on the renovation, after all he is a machinist. I wasn't sure at first but after a tried it there was no looking back. He told me to use use a wire twist wheel attached to an angle grinder with high RP M's - It will clean that surface up in no time ,it actually has the results of 400 grit sandpaper and won't remove the surface or damage the part, it just cleans it very well, (wear a mask- that dust will fly all over the place) then he said to use use a buffing rouge after, on a lower rpm buffing tool-the setting (the compound recommended speed), not only to get a nice shine to it but , it helps seal the surface- if you don't want to bother with the buffing use paste wax (Johnson's) and that does a great job keeping moisture out on all the exposed areas. You don't realize that with all the time using a steel wool pad or scrubber that you are actually working areas uneven if there is a lot of rust on it, you are doing the same thing with the wire twist wheel and it does a much better job as far as an even process on the entire surface not to mention cleaning everything up like a new surface - he was absolutely correct! If this was a metal lathe- you never grind,sand,scrape any part of the bed of the lathe he said- you would be fired! wheels/handles/bolts -OK, but never the bed, the best you can do is steel wool the bed- limited applications and a metal sealer lubricant. what ever you feel comfortable with- do that, but try it on something else if your concerned about this method- you will be surprised with the results.
Brian

I agree. Any hard abrasives are going to start to hollow out the surface wherever they are used. As long as the wire wheel is softer than the cast Iron, it will only remove the rust.

This is why in woodworking we don't use random orbit sanders, Sandpaper on bocks to true edges, to create glue lines, and flatten out boards for face gluing.

[Andy Korfin]

Guys I know it's been a very long time since I started this thread but I finally got around to cleaning my Table Saw and Jointer. I wanted to thank everyone that responded and second let you know what I found to work the best. The results were outstanding, take a look at the 'After' pictures.

I had to give the nod to PB BLaster over WD40 and I also found that 80 grit sandpaper helped to get the tough stuff out. The final piece was the coat of wax which makes them as close to "as new" as I can hope to get for second hand prices.

[Mark Hulette]

Looks good, Andy! Thanks for the report--- the results speak for themselves.

[Lee Schierer]

Get some scotchbrite pads and WD-40, use the scotchbrite pads on your ROS, spray on the WD-40 and keep sanding the rust away till it disappears.After, removing the rust, wipe off the surface with some clean dry rags, and then use Johnson's or Minwax pastewax, a couple of good coats of wax and then buff it out....the cast iron will shine like new money and will be good to go. Jim Heffner

You can also use a vibratory sander and attach the scotch brite pads like a piece of sandpaper. Keep the surface flooded with WD-40, wipe off the sludge and tehn apply a couple of coats of Johnson paste wax. Do not use automotive waxes as most contain silicone and water. The silicone will mess up wood finishes and the water will cause rust.