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Thread: electrical outlets

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
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    11,896
    I agree with everyone else that it is quite easy. I replaced all of them in our old house and have replaced many of them in this house. The BORG even sells a handy handle that plugs into the outlet to hold them for rewiring. After turning off the outlet, take a look at how each is wired before disconnecting anything--that way you can be sure to put it back exactly as it was. One other thing to watch for--in this house, most of our rooms have the top outlet always hot and the bottom switched by the light switch. There is a tab to break off on the hot side of each receptacle to separate the circuits.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post
    I agree with everyone else that it is quite easy. I replaced all of them in our old house and have replaced many of them in this house. The BORG even sells a handy handle that plugs into the outlet to hold them for rewiring. After turning off the outlet, take a look at how each is wired before disconnecting anything--that way you can be sure to put it back exactly as it was. One other thing to watch for--in this house, most of our rooms have the top outlet always hot and the bottom switched by the light switch. There is a tab to break off on the hot side of each receptacle to separate the circuits.
    Different people may do this different ways, but most homes have their outlets with the ground down. When you have an outlet that has one or more of the individual outlets switched, electricians around here put that outlet with the ground up to tell people (people who know, that is) that the outlet is switched. I find it useful to know which ones are switched.

    If you like your outlets with the ground up, then mount the switched outlets with the ground opposite (down).

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 09-02-2007 at 10:35 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Mike, ours are actually split. If plug something into the top half, it is always on. If you plug something into the bottom half, it is switched. Or maybe its the other way around--I can never remember...

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post
    Mike, ours are actually split. If plug something into the top half, it is always on. If you plug something into the bottom half, it is switched. Or maybe its the other way around--I can never remember...
    Yes, that's the way my switched outlets are. The electricians turn those over to let you know one is switched - it's always the top that's switched and the bottom that's always live around here. Once you know the "secret" you really appreciate it.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Red Oak, Texas
    Posts
    131
    Aren't there a couple grades of outlets? I remember another thread and it seems like the cheap Borg aren't near as good or safe as some more expensive ones purchased at electrical supply houses.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart Johnson View Post
    Aren't there a couple grades of outlets? I remember another thread and it seems like the cheap Borg aren't near as good or safe as some more expensive ones purchased at electrical supply houses.
    you can get the heavy outlets at the BORG , just expect to pay 2-3 dollars each vs .88

    I like Rex Cualdwells book "wiring a house " and his concept of doing things better than code

    http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-P.../dp/1561585270

    I've done most of ours along with the light switch s , went to the "decra style " in white
    Last edited by skip coyne; 09-03-2007 at 10:43 AM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,902
    I buy the commercial grade outlets, etc., at the 'borg and have no problems. Why folks would choose outlets under a buck versus $2-3 for the good ones baffles me given the huge percentage of house fires that are electrical related. The real scary thing is how many of the cheap ones go into new construction...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I buy the commercial grade outlets, etc., at the 'borg and have no problems. Why folks would choose outlets under a buck versus $2-3 for the good ones baffles me given the huge percentage of house fires that are electrical related. The real scary thing is how many of the cheap ones go into new construction...
    What I find with the cheap outlets is that they wear out quicker than the commercial grade outlets. That is, you plug into them and the plug is not "captured" but is loose in the outlet.

    For me, that's not a big problem because I always have outlets on hand - I buy them by the contractor pack - so I just replace the outlet.

    Most homes and shops have a few outlets that get the most use. Those are the ones where you need to put the better grade of outlets.

    But there's nothing wrong with putting better quality outlets everywhere.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  9. #24
    and If you happen to have a 40 year old house like mine you can add GFCIs everywhere they should be while your at it .

  10. #25
    Aurelio,

    Lots of comments there that go both ways. If you still plan on doing it yourself (my vote) spend the extra $20 to get the little yellow plug tester. It has three little lights on it that light up and tells you if you're right or wrong.

    Key note - plug it in first and check your circuit. If you have an existing problem - fix it while replacing the new outlet or before replacing the new outlet. If the two correct lights are on - make the new one just like it.

    I say this because it helps you in two ways. One you see that it's on and when it's off (positive confirmation) - you're safe when it's off. The second, if there is a problem currently, you don't question if you did it or not. May not seem like a big deal - but if you just swap it and find a problem afterwards, you don't know if the problem is caused by you at that outlet or if the feed line has an existing problem.

    Of course - if there are any problems - you should address it with an electrician before attempting anything. The kind of problems you can find is reverse polarization, shorts, open-grounds etc... They'll likely charge you more to come in and find an opened outlet and have to fix it because they are taking a risk that you've been in the wiring and their work would be blamed if anything goes wrong.
    Steve Beckham

    Epilog Mini 24 with 45 Watt, Ricoh GX 7000 Sublimation, Corel X3, Corel X4 and PhotoGrav, Recently replaced the two 'used' SWF machines with brand new Barudans.

  11. #26
    Regarding the "commercial" vs. "residential" (cheap) outlets:
    In the metro Atlanta area, 10 packs of commercial outlets at HD run only $14, so it isn't even as big of a price difference as is often talked about.

    Regarding where to buy:
    It is worth checking with a local electrical supply house. I found a local place that on all but the most staple of items has far better prices than HD and Lowe's.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
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    5,513
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Weick View Post
    Tyler,
    You know , you don't mind paying for something if it's worth it - You
    Brian
    Brian,
    I agree it's insane. Installing new in a old house, electricians earn their bucks.
    Buttttt!
    A lot of work I have done is undoing somebody elses mess.
    reversed polarities, nicked wires, grounds cut off, using a conduit for a return and using water pipe for a return. Now that's insane.
    I'm a strong supporter of DIY. But it has to be done right.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

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