Suggestions for repairing this joint

[Rob Blaustein]

The table shown below has a problem with one of the joints that hold the shelf. The table itself is not all that well made but my wife picked it up at the local swap shop and refinished it using a faux distressed finish (now not so faux). As you can see, the joint utilizes a dowel, but it doesn't seem to come together well to take advantage of the flat gluing surface (which is why some paint crept in). So my plan is to use a chisel to pare down the edge so I can get the surfaces to come together, and then use chisel and/or sandpaper to get the paint off. But I suspect there will still be gaps. I have 3 glues on hand: Titebond original, Gorilla, and PL construction adhesive (unless I make a run to the hardware store). I'm tempted to go with the PL since from what I've read, it's better at filling gaps and it also will adhere to other glues (and to itself) so it sounds like it would be good for repair work. I do have some clamps here as well. Any suggestions or advice?
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[Ken Fitzgerald]

If it was mine, I'd pare it down for a good tight fit and use 15 minute epoxy. Clamp it, let the expoxy setup and then pare and or sand it. I like the reduced setup time, the ability to work it and void filling capabilities of the epoxy.

[Randy Klein]

If it was mine, I'd pare it down for a good tight fit and use 15 minute epoxy. Clamp it, let the expoxy setup and then pare and or sand it. I like the reduced setup time, the ability to work it and void filling capabilities of the epoxy.

I second the epoxy nomination.

[Charlie Plesums]

Original titebond is my favorite adhesive, but it requires porous surfaces, which you don't have (with the paint and previous glue). It can fill gaps of a few thousandths, but not real gaps.

Gorilla glue will expand to fill any gaps, but the expanded gorilla glue has virtually no strength. I can almost guarantee you will be doing the job again if you use Gorilla glue. After some dramatic failures, I won't have it in my shop any more.

PL construction adhesive is a polyurethane glue like gorilla... glues almost anything to almost anything, including painted and previously glued surfaces. It expands, but doesn't seem as foamy (the expanded glue seems a lot stronger). I like it when I have questionable (non-porous) surfaces or small gaps to fill, or need a truly waterproof glue.

I keep hearing that Epoxy is the best for filling larger gaps, but I haven't become an expert on epoxy... I usually make a patch piece to make the big gaps into multiple small gaps, then glue the patch in place with PL or similar.

[Bill Huber]

I would have to agree with both comments above.
With epoxy it will fill cracks and the like better then the others.

[Doug Shepard]

I'd personally glue a wood shim on it to bring it out but then leave the dowel loose so it can expand/contract. But why is it that loose to start with? Have the legs worked loose from the top so that they're splaying out further? Anyway you can tighten them up first?

[Rob Blaustein]

I was able to clean up the joint pretty well with a chisel (wish I had my sharpening stones here) and a thin strip of 80 grit sandpaper that I pulled back and forth, so I got off all the paint and what little glue if any was there. I think Doug's theory is correct--the legs are a bit loose on top, but I couldn't see a way to fix that without taking the whole thing apart. Since I don't have epoxy around I used the PL and pulled it together with a clamp. Have to check to see if PL comes in smaller sizes--seems like overkill to use that big dispenser size. I'll report back when I take the clamps off in a few hrs.

Actually I just realized I could have used a CA glue--I recently picked up a starter kit of Fastcap's 2P-10 based on recs from Per Swenson and John Lucas--it comes in several thicknesses, presumably to fill gaps, but don't know how well that would work.

[Lee Schierer]

Another option would be to drill through the leg and the dowel and install a long wood screw. The screw can be hidden in the leg with a countersunk hole and hole plug sanded to match the contour of the leg. I think it would be stronger and last longer than any glue you would use.

[Todd Jensen]

You should be pleased with the PL. I use it to set stair newel posts and other applications where I can't afford it to ever move. If it is allowed to dry before testing(a day or two), it should dry rock solid.

[Rob Blaustein]

You should be pleased with the PL. I use it to set stair newel posts and other applications where I can't afford it to ever move. If it is allowed to dry before testing(a day or two), it should dry rock solid.

Yeah, I just noticed that it takes a while to fully cure--at least a day--so maybe I'll leave the clamp on overnight. No rush with this. I just peeled off the semi dry squeeze out and it came off nicely.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

NOT EPOXY~!!!!

Not unless you are able to strip away all the old wood that is contaminated with the original glue.

I did this once to a chair with a split joint and the epoxy simply failed to adhere cause the old PVA glue wouldn't let it stick. It just fell apart.

I'd use yellow glue and maybe even put a wedge in that dowel

[Joe Unni]

In this case it's the dowel that was the glue surface and not the leg or shelf so you'll need to get the dowel so it fits well (i.e. wedge as previously mentioned).

Or...

Clean everything up and slather on some yellow glue and clamp. While in the clamp, drill a 1/8" hole at an angle right where the leg meets the shelf. Drill it long enough to pass through the existing dowel and into the leg below. Then glue an 1/8" dowel in your new hole and trim when dry. You'll barely see the new dowel (easily covered with more faux) and it will prevent the old dowel from pulling out.

My 2 cents.

Good luck,
-joe

[Dan Drager]

I'f make her a nicer one and escort that one to the burn pile.

[Charlie Plesums]

...

Actually I just realized I could have used a CA glue--I recently picked up a starter kit of Fastcap's 2P-10 based on recs from Per Swenson and John Lucas--it comes in several thicknesses, presumably to fill gaps, but don't know how well that would work.

I have heard that CA is relatively brittle - I love it for tying down a splinter or filling a void when turning, but based on the second-hand opinion about being brittle, I would not use it where strength is the prime concern.

I think you did the right thing with the PL. I picked up some more yesterday, and found dozens of different PL adhesives, so should clarify that the stuff I recommend is PL Polyurethane Premium Construction adhesive.

[Rob Blaustein]

Lee--that would probably be a very solid repair and I could have done that had I read your post before gluing it up, but I don't have any wood plugs handy here to cover up the screws, though I guess having an exposed head wouldn't be so horrible given the style of the piece.

Joe--sounds like your fix is like Lee's but with a dowel, which I don't have handy.

Charlie--yes, I used the PL Poly Premium Construction Adhesive. And yes, they certainly do have lots of different adhesives. I looked at their website and it's a bit dizzying. Not sure of the practical differences (other than the ones that specify certain materials like foam board). It also doesn't look you can get this same stuff in a smaller size, but fortunately it isn't too expensive.

I took off the clamp this AM and cleaned up some more squeeze out and it seems quite solid.

Thanks to all who responded with suggestions and advice--always appreciated.

--Rob