New Member here with Unisaw Project

[Todd Ludwig]

Greeting guys ! I joined the forum as I just picked up a used Unisaw from the Habitat for Humanity store here in Phoenix. I went in the store looking for something else but this caught my eye and I picked it up. It was priced oddly at $248 and there was no tax either. It also came with a 52" Unifence and rail. It has a 3HP motor.

After getting it home and replacing my 230V receptacle to an L6-20, I plugged it in and it fired right up and sounded great. And after blowing off all the sawdust, it appears to be in better shape than I had anticipated. The belts need replacing for sure, as one was taught and the other 2 seemed real loose. They look pretty worn as well. I have many questions but I'll start with the basics.

1.) Where is a good source for belts? I found some on Mikestools.com for about $40 shipped. The current belts have Rockwell #49-124 printed on them.

2.) While I am at it, should I replace the arbor bearings since it will be in pieces for a while?

3.) Looking at the serial number (84H00476), is there a way to determine the date of this saw? Model #34-801

4.) Obviously, the motor cover is missing, but can you guys see anything else that may be missing? This is my first cabinet saw so if something else was missing, I wouldn’t even know it.

Here’s a link to my webspace with some pics. Hope this isn’t against the rules. If so let me know and I’ll edit this post. To be honest I wasn’t sure how to post the thumbails I see on here

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw

I have been using a Rockwell Model 10 contractors saw for the last 5 years so this should be a nice upgrade for me. I have already ordered a mobile base online and will mount it up before rebuilding the saw. Basically I’m just looking for some tips to keep me pointed in the right direction with this project.

Thanks in advance. This forum is awesome with tons of information !!!

One thing I forgot. The wheel to tilt the motor is VERY stiff at first (takes 2 hands to move it) until it gets up to about 15 degrees, then it moves quite freely. I don't see anything obvious that would be causing this

Todd - Scottsdale, AZ

[Chris Rosenberger]

That is a very nice saw. It looks like it was very well taken care of. You got a great deal on it. I do not believe I would change the bearings unless the old ones are rough or make noise. It does not look like the saw has had alot of use. As for the stiffness in the hand wheel. Try spraying some lube on the bearing points & gear.

[Ed Falis]

Yeah, looks like you got yourself a super deal. Enjoy the refurb and the use!

[Frederick Rowe]

Welcome to SMC Todd. You've made a fine entrance with a gloat and photos. Your Unisaw looks to be in excellent condition, and at $250 a steal.

As for belts, I switched to link belts on my new Unisaw and found the saw to run more smoothly, and greatly reduces the start up jolt and shut down shudders. As far as the difficulty tilting the blade up to 15 degrees I'd first clean any debris from the worm gear, then watch the tilt shaft carefully as someone else turns the wheel. The shaft could be bent, or more likely, the collar may be jambed onto the worm gear. Make sure the mating teeth on the front trunnion are not damaged.

I pulled up the PDF owners manual and exploded diagrams for the 34-801 and emailed them to you, it might help in identifying parts. As far as when it was manufactured, I'd guess early 1980's. Check/post on OWWM.com (Old Wood-Working Machines) for a serial number look up table.

Enjoy your "new" Unisaw.

[Chuck Lenz]

As for belts, I switched to link belts on my new Unisaw and found the saw to run more smoothly, and greatly reduces the start up jolt and shut down shudders.

And here I JUST told someone in a different thread that I didn't think link belts worked on a Unisaw! Grrrrrrrrrr. There I go thinkin again. Is it Monday ?

[Todd Ludwig]

Well, one of the first things I did to my Model 10 was to put a machined pulley and link belt on it. I'll have to consider it for this saw. In any case, if I go with the regular belts, is $40 shipped a decent price? I don't seem to find a lot of sources for them.

[Frederick Rowe]

Hey Chuck, no worries. I think I read the same thing some time ago. According to the Fenner Drive web site, you can use them on any non automotive application.

[Burt Waddell]

According to Delta, They do not recommend link belts for unisaws. These belts should be a matched set. It has to do with how the link belts perform. Unfortunately, I don't remember the details.

[Todd Ludwig]

Try spraying some lube on the bearing points & gear.

What kind of lube? I'm assuming WD-40 is not the right stuff to use?

[Kermit Hodges]

Just take one of the belts to the auto parts and you get belts there. Thats where I get all mine.

[Matt Meiser]

On the age, According to the Old Woodworking Machines web site, Rockwell International was formed in 1973 and the stationary power tool business was sold to Pentair in 1984 and renamed back to Delta.

[Harvey Boshart]

Yuo can call delta with the model number and serial number and they can look up the date of manufacture as well as provide you with a faxed copy of a manual and parts list.

[Todd Ludwig]

Just take one of the belts to the auto parts and you get belts there. Thats where I get all mine.

Is this so? I have read so many times that they are a 'matched set' when you buy 3 for a Unisaw. Sounds like marketing hype to me but what do I know?

[Mark Berenbrok]

Try Grainger Industrial Supply for your belts. The three belts for my saw were less than $20.

[Chuck Wintle]

Try Grainger Industrial Supply for your belts. The three belts for my saw were less than $20.

Which model of saw do you have? Do you remember the belt number? And wouldn't the v-belts be the same for a particular model over the years.