What glue for veneer

[Zahid Naqvi]

In one previous attempt in veneering a table top I had used two part epoxy, which turned out really good. I was wondering if usual yellow glue is also a workable solution.

[Justin Bukoski]

I've used yellow glue several time with good effect. The only real issue is open time - can you get the glue spread evenly and in the bag quick enough.

[John McArthur]

Old Brown Glue, with plenty of open time, and reversible for repair. Or, make your own with hide glue, diluted with salt or urea about 10% to dry glue weight, with water to glue at a ratio of 1.8:1. It is very strong, reversible, and there is no blotching where splotches of glue soak through the veneer. I make mine up and dispense it in squeeze bottles. Good luck with your decision.

[Mike Spanbauer]

I use Unibond 800 myself, a Urea Resine glue. Excellent open time (near 60m) VERY rigid once set.

Amazing stuff, really effective.

2 part, like epoxy.

mike

[Zahid Naqvi]

The good thing about epoxy was that even when it leaked through the veneer in places, the look was as if the veneer was moistened with an oil. The veneer I am using is burl and I am sure some of the glue will leak out in places, hence the concern with the type of glue.
I don't have a vacuum press but so far I have had good results with using cauls, so that is what I am planning on doing again.

[Cary Swoveland]

Zahid, there is a good discussion of different glues for veneering at the joewoodworker site (veneer glue faq).

Cary

[Daniel Simon]

Zahid, there is a good discussion of different glues for veneering at the joewoodworker site (veneer glue faq).

Cary

Yes, you will like the Better Bond cold press glue from Joewoodworker.com. It's a good alternative to the Unibond. Comes premixed and the color of your choice.

[Jim Becker]

I got the cold glue from Joe, too...wonderful stuff.

[michael merlo]

The good thing about epoxy was that even when it leaked through the veneer in places, the look was as if the veneer was moistened with an oil. The veneer I am using is burl and I am sure some of the glue will leak out in places, hence the concern with the type of glue.
I don't have a vacuum press but so far I have had good results with using cauls, so that is what I am planning on doing again.

zahid, not sure if this would apply in your situation but i have veneered mesquite and apply shellac to the contact side of the veneer before starting ..... then apply (twice) titebond II evenly to both contact surfaces with a roller and let it set up completely - titebond is thermoplastic so the pieces can then be placed and ironed on or even heated (carefully) with a heat gun and burnishing tool to bond the pieces. the shellac keeps the glue from leaking through to the finish side.
it just occurred to me that ...... sealing both sides might work also and then sanding the shellac from your finish side - if you use another (wet) method - but i have not tried that ...... yet.

best to you

"Man who says it cannot be done, should not interrupt man doing it"
- Chinese proverb

[Mike Wilkins]

Titebond has a really good product called Cold Press Glue for Veneers that works great. I used it for a laminated glue up using 1/8" strips for a curved bookcase support, as well as for some flat vacuum veneered panels. Nothing has come apart yet.

[Guy Germaine]

I use Unibond 800 for larger panels and regular old Titebond III for smaller stuff like box lids, and such. If you use Titebond Cold Press, keep an eye on the expiration date. I bought a gallon of it a year ago, and it doesn't hold like it used to.

[Denny Rice]

Titebond has a really good product called Cold Press Glue for Veneers that works great. I used it for a laminated glue up using 1/8" strips for a curved bookcase support, as well as for some flat vacuum veneered panels. Nothing has come apart yet.

I agree with Mike, Titebond makes a wonderful glue for veneers!

[Bill Arnold]

Here's another vote for Better Bond from Joe!