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Thread: Where to buy fine grit sandpaper for Scary Sharp?

  1. #1
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    Where to buy fine grit sandpaper for Scary Sharp?

    In the last year, I have gone to the scary sharp method with a granite surface plate and side sharpening with excellent results (better than my waterstones). Question is where do you find your sandpaper over 1500 grit ? I got Mirka paper to 1500 grit in various places such as amazon.com, but finding 2000, 25000 and 3000 grit is proving a challenge. I plan on buying standard full sheets in boxes of 50 sheets. Thanks for your help.

    Jim

  2. #2
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    I get my 3M microabrasive file from 'Tools for Working Wood' at 800-426-4613. The carry it down to .3 micron for a mirror finish.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  3. #3
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    Jim,

    I use the microabrasives from Lee Valley. 15, 5, 0.5 micron. It lasts much longer than the wet dry paper, and comes in much finer grits. LV states that the 0.5 micron is approximately 9000 grit.

    If you want the wet dry paper, you can get it at automotive painting/finishing supply stores down to 2500.

    Jonathan
    Last edited by jonathan snyder; 10-08-2007 at 2:37 PM. Reason: typo


    "I left Earth three times. I found no place else to go. Please take care of Spaceship Earth." -- Wally Schirra, who flew around Earth on Mercury, Gemini and Apollo missions in the 1960s.

  4. #4
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    What Jonathan said. One note on the LV paper, although the paper seems like it is done for after a few sharpenings, but it keeps on working for a long time. The best test is to use an oil (mineral oil, baby oil etc.) for lubricant and if you see it turning black after a a few strokes you know the paper is working.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  5. #5
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    Automotive supply house

    They usually have it cheaper than woodworking sources. I'm also a fan or using LV green compound on the superfine paper. One stick can easily last a few years.

  6. #6
    Online Industrial Supply is where I buy bulk pack abrasives for sharpening. The pricing is good and I find the abrasives good quality, however before you invest in the abrasives finer than 1500 grit you may want to try sharpening up thru 1500 grit and then adding some polishing compound to the 1500 grit paper and polishing the edge. You may find that you like the polished edge created by this method so much that you may wish to fore go the grits finer than 1500.

    Ron

  7. #7
    While I use water stones to sharpen, I buy my finishing sandpaper at auto body supply stores. It's very cheap and works for wet or dry applications. I usually load up on 25 sheets of 1000 grit, 25 sheets of 1500 grit, 50 sheets of 2000 grit and 50 sheets of 4000 grit and the bill comes to about $35. I do have some 5000 grit as well, but rarely use it. This may be a cheaper alternative for your sand paper needs. After doing a little research online it appears that the same quantities can be had for even less money.
    Last edited by Steve Wargo; 10-08-2007 at 4:39 PM. Reason: A little extra info.
    "When we build, let us think that we build forever." - Ruskin

  8. #8
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    Sandpaper suppliers for sharpening

    Wow, guys, thanks! I know about Lee Valley and have bought the micro-abrasive from them, but figured it was 3M paper and wanted to get it directly from 3M if possible, but Lee Valley has always been great to me and customer service is great as well.

    I have not tried auto suppliers, so have to look into that one.

    Steve, I have not seen mention of wet/dry paper beyond 3000 grit before, so that would be great!

    I do have waterstones at 1000, 1200, 4000, and 8000, and yes I flattened them on my diamond plates, but the backs of chisels and plane blades became mirror polished sharp with sandpaper on my granite surface plate and never did with the wet stones. Now I have sharpened knives on oil stones for 40 years but the stones were not flat. Point being I have experience holding and sharpening steel, so am not a rookie. I do my kitchen knives on diamond stones as I want a bit of a rough edge on them.

    It has been much easier for me to get a good (though not great) edge with sandpaper. I did OK with wet stones, but did not get it so sharp it would cut tissue paper cleanly. I can nearly do it with sandpaper. I know my grandpa could sharpen to the point a knife would cut into your skin and you would not feel it. Sometimes I can do it, but most times not. Oh well another 10 or 15 years to go before I become adequate (I am 50 now). Keep the ideas coming guys.

    Industrial Abrasives in Reading, PA sells silicon carbide paper to 2500 grit. I found a company in Canada that manufactures their own brand and sells Mirka sandpaper as well. Their brand goes to 3000 grit. I will have to find where I wrote their name down...more later!
    Last edited by Jim Newman; 10-08-2007 at 5:42 PM.

  9. #9
    You need to do some research before you use silicon carbide. You need aluminum oxide. If you notice LV doesn't use silicon carbide with their MK-II motorized sharpening. That is because as you use silicon carbide it breaks down into finer particles. Now you are basically polishing the steel instead of sharpening it.

    Also, LapSharp doesn't use silicon carbide. This is from their FAQ:

    Why isn’t Silicon Carbide abrasive used? Silicon carbide is a sharp abrasive but breaks down very quickly. It then burnishes the tool rather than abrading it. This burnishing creases friction heat which can damage the tool’s temper. This is easily demonstrated with two progressively smaller Silicon carbide abrasive sheets. Rub a steel tool on a piece of this abrasive paper, such as 400 grit. After working the tool for a short time, the tool will begin to shine. Next, rub the same tool area once or twice on a new piece of 500 grit paper. Note the scratches on the area that had been shining. The fresh but finer grit was abrading the area that had been burnished by the previous grit. A sharp tool is created by abrading the meeting edges of a tool to finely finished surfaces, not by buffing them till they are shiny. Silicon Carbide abrasive does not hold up as well as Aluminum Oxide. Silicon Carbide may be used successfully for abrading aluminum and other soft materials

    I am sure that this problem is worse when doing it with a motor (faster) but if it is noticeable when doing as the example about demonstrates, then I guess you should be using aluminum oxide.

  10. #10
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    Hmm... maybe I'm not doing this whole "Scary Sharp" thing properly, but I haven't gone beyond 2000 grit and the chisels and plane blades I've done seem pretty darn sharp to me. I get my paper at the local auto parts store, but am planning on stocking up in bulk "real soon now."

    Seriously, 2000 grit with a bit of water seems to get things pretty sharp and shiny around here.

    Jon
    We few, we happy few, we band of brothers --
    joined in the serious business of keeping our food,
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    with oxygen.
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  11. #11
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    Wal-Mart

    Wal-Mart has a variety of grits available in the automotive section. Not full size sheets, but convenient to glue two or three side by side on a piece of glass. Pretty cheap source.
    John Todd

    Indianapolis, IN

  12. #12
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    Yep, I've bought at Walmart as well.
    Where did I put that tape measure...

  13. #13
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    Aluminum oxide vs.silicon carbide for very fine abrasive

    Carl, from what I have read, aluminum oxide can only be used up to about 320 grit, then it is always silicon carbide used as the abrasive on sandpaper. Lots of good articles on it on the internet. Yes, silicon carbide does break down easier, than aluminum oxide.
    Jim

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