Backbeveling on buffing wheels.

[Jake Darvall]

I understand it looks pretty crude. But I really treasure tricks like this that make life easy. Especially the simple uncomplicated ones.
Thought it may be of interest.

I've tried a few methods of backbeveling for bevel down planes. But this is how I'll do it for now on. So simple. can forget stones, jigs....keeping them flat, and setting things just right. All that.

I just work out the angle you want. Scribe it off. I've got a line here about 15 degrees. So maybe I'll set it about 10 degrees (past the line). Grip it hard with my hand at that point.....Picture 1. It may not be clear at first exactly what angle your getting. The accuracy of this number isn't really important. What you want is a line that represents good results in the past. Increasing the angle until tear discontinues. Redrawing the line as you go, so you can find it latter.

Then straight to the wheel....I've got a bar suspended above it. And just lightly stroke it across the wheel. You'll lightly backbevel it polished in one hit. Till burrs kicked etc...checking for feathering edges. Picture 2.

I get consistant results this way, when I want a backbevel on teary timber etc. I can't think of a quicker way. Been doing it this way for a few months now on a couple of bench planes. No mishaps yet.

[Dan Forman]

Interesting idea. That looks like an iron from an infill or old woodie, want to tell us about that? What did you do to modify the plane to accept it?

Dan

[Jake Darvall]

Hi Dan. Like your hair mate.

I've done that to most of my planes. Like big chunky blades.

Got very enthusiastic about it........took a lot of photos....and wrote a thread about it on this site somewhere...can't seem to find it.

Some thought what I'd done was sacrilage unfortunetly. But I felt they have improved there performance.

[Marcus Ward]

You can find it here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42167

[Jake Darvall]

yep, thats the one !... ta Marcus.

I know, I know.....it looks brutal, and they look ugly, but my bench planes here would give those LN planes a run for there money.

[nic obie]

Another way to get a really thick blade in a Stanley is to use a tapered one. They might be a bit hard to find but they are out there. I know that among others Fulton made them

Another trick is to find a Sargent blade. Some of then are way thicker than a Stanley and are even a bit thicker than the replacement irons that LN and LV sell. I had one in a Stanley #4 and until I sold it to Al W. it was my go-to #4. I kinda wish I had kept it , but no, I had to have that shinny LN.

[Dan Forman]

yep, thats the one !... ta Marcus.

I know, I know.....it looks brutal, and they look ugly, but my bench planes here would give those LN planes a run for there money.

Jake, that was a great read. Thanks for going to all the trouble to write it up for us. Looks like you and Bob Smalser are cut from the same cloth. If I had a welder and knew how to work it, I'd be tempted to try one of those.

Dan

[Jake Darvall]

pleasure. Have fun putting the pictures together