Cheap Knock off or Does it really Matter?

[Paul Snowden]

I tried my friend's pocket jig and I decided to pick up one myself. Now, I don't mind paying for a good one but i'm not sure if it really matters. I see this one on Ebay and i'm not sure it works or is a hunk of junk





So basically give me your pocket jig advise.

[David Duke]

I haven't used anything other than the Kreg (which is a well made tool) so I can't comment on the jig shown other than to state that you normally get what you pay for.

[Paul Snowden]

I haven't used anything other than the Kreg (which is a well made tool) so I can't comment on the jig shown other than to state that you normally get what you pay for.

That is what i'm wondering. If you think I should go with the Kreg route which one would recommend me getting?

[Gary Whitt]

If you use one everyday, buy a high-end unit.

If, like me, it's more like once every 2-4 weeks, the one you pictured will do fine.

Buy good quality drill bits and screws.

[Paul Snowden]

If you use one everyday, buy a high-end unit.

If, like me, it's more like once every 2-4 weeks, the one you pictured will do fine.

Buy good quality drill bits and screws.

I think I would only be using it every few weeks or so.

[Gary Whitt]

I bought a $38 unit from Klingspor's.

I've been using it for 3 years now.

On my 3rd drill bit, though

[Kyle Kraft]

I built my own from a mental photograph of a currently popular brand of pocket hole jig. I've also used my friends Kreg mega kit and I was impressed with the quality of materials and workmanship, not to mention how well it worked. If my homemade one wasn't such a raging success, I wouldn't hesitate to pay the bucks for the Kreg.

[GERALD HARGROVE]

You can get a Kreg set at Lowes, if your use for simple cabinet frame assembly and other small tasks. That is what I did and it has done fine for me over the past couple of years.

[Todd Jensen]

$120 for the Kreg kit - a little overkill, and I don't use it that often, but it should last a lifetime and for my $ I'd rather have the good one - it sure is a pain to find out the cheap one doesn't work that great the day before a project is due. JMO, but I'm kind've a tool snob and don't mind paying for the accuracy and reliability of the nicer tools. I could use a skil saw and a clamp on guide - but I've got a Festool setup instead.
I also know it shouldn't matter(and I don't know if you're a hobbyist or professional), but for me, this is my business, and I think people do notice when you pull out the nicer stuff - to some it shows you care.
That said, if you can pull off the same quality with a large rock and a stick, who really cares. Either way, have fun with your tool and project.

[frank shic]

paul, even though kreg tools has pretty much cornered the hobbyist market with pocket screw technology, i think that the jig you mentioned will do fine for occasional use. i am currently building a patio table with 2x4's and 2x6's and i just freehanded the pocket holes with a 3/8" brad bit and the joints are pretty tight even without using a pocket hole jig.

[pat fowler]

Paul, I have a pocket hole jig from PSI that looks identical to the one you picture and have been using it for a couple of years. I am a hobbiest but have put a few hour worth of holes into a fair amount of wood with mine a feel like it is a very good jig.

[Jim Kountz]

The only one I can comment on is the Kreg jig. I used one for a while until my GrandDad told me to leave the fancy gadgets alone and learn some %*$&$# joinery like a real cabinetmaker!! LOL

That said the Kreg did a real nice job.

[Phil Thien]

The only thing I'll mention about the pictured unit is that it seems like it would only be good for 3/4" thick stock. The lower-end Kreg I have will work w/ up to 1-1/2" thick stock.

[frank shic]

paul, regardless of which pocket hole jig you go with, make sure that you purchase a LFC (large face clamp) to do your face frame clamping. it'll minimize the chances of joint creep and decrease the amount of finish sanding you'll have to do afterwards. i usually set the pressure on the clamp by closing the jaws on the piece to be clamped, turning the screw the jaws surroudn the piece and then giving it another turn to make sure that there's adequate pressure. if you are planning on using pocket holes to join a face frame to a cabinet, the RAC (right angle clamp) isn't a bad investment, either.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I bought the ~ $40.00 "two hole" Kreg.
It works exactly as advertised. I'm 100% satisfied with it.
The only "shortcoming" it has, is that's it's a bit tricky to use on narrow stock, due to the "two holes".
Since Kreg offers a sinlge hole one for ~ $20.00, I don't really consider that an issue.

On topic of knock off vs "the real deal".

I've found in my limited experience so far, that "knock off's" and/or lower end tools/jigs all suffer from one critical flaw.

They only do ~ 90 - 95% of the job the better stuff does.
That may or may not be an immedite issue, but sure as shootin' it's going to "bite you" at the worst possible time.

For eg.:
Last Nov, I bought a Ryobi 10" CMS.(the $99.00 model on sale for $59.00)

It's been a real workhorse and I'm pleased with it for the most part. Last night however, I had to cut 4 pieces of crown molding. I setup the Benchdog jig and made the first cut on the left side of the blade. When i went to make the second cut on the right side of the blade, I found to my dismay, that the locking pin hit the top of the jig. No way, no how would it work.
Since I'm extremely pressed for time, I had to "freehand" the cuts. Needless to say they didn't turn out so great.
Things turned out Ok - it's for the basement of a rental & will probably be destroyed in a year or two anyhow.

IMHO - knock offs can be a terrific value - up until the point comes where you "need" some specific feature they lack.