Suggestions solicited for design of computer desk

[Cary Swoveland]

I'm planning to build a small computer desk, and later a complementary credenze for office use. Here is my initial plan:

Computer desk front.pdf Computer desk side.pdf Computer desk top no mitre.pdf

The dimensions are in mm. (Please disregard the inch symbols.)

You can see it is quite a small desk. The top is only about 40"x24" (by 1"), and it is only about 28.5" above the floor. I chose that height because I prefer having the monitor, keyboard and mouse on the top, rather than on a tray (and 28.5" is about as low as I can go for my wife).

The top will be zebrawood with a wenge border. The base will be wenge, the drawerfronts, macassar ebony. I have bought the lumber and have some beautiful pieces.

The drawerfronts are only 45mm high (about 1.75"), in order to provide enough legroom, considering the low height of the top. I know they won't hold much, but I like the look, more so than if I had just a stack of drawers on one side. I'm thinking of 1/2" poplar or maple for the drawer sides and back (or walnut?) and 1/4" ply for the base, with wood runners on the bottom. I'm hoping I can keep about 1" of depth inside the drawer.

If you look at the side view, you can see that there is a bevel on the wenge board that forms the front border of the top. I considered mitres at the front two corners of the top, but thought that might be tricky or time-consuming to build, when compared to the no-mitre design. Here's the top with mitres on the front two corners:

Computer desk top mitre.pdf

To allow for front-to-back wood movement in the top, I plan to have the back wenge border move with the zebrawood (which is why I have no mitres at the back).

I'm not sure about the legs. I have them 45mm square for the top 2.75" or so, narrowing (both front and side) to 18mm square at the foot.

I would be interested in comments about the design and suggestions for how I might improve it.

Cary

[Danny Thompson]

Lovely. Delicate. Perfect for a laptop or keyboard and flat-screen.

Since you asked for input . . .

Is this for a desktop computer? If so, how will you hide the wiring?

Re: Mitres. You could accomplish the front corner bevel after joining the front to the sides. So joint, then bevel. Easier said than done, though, since your front piece is wider than your sides. If that sounds difficult, go with plan A--no mitres.

Back: Will the desk back up to a wall? If so, given the general size--only 24" deep and only 28.5" high--this table may become more of an accent or entry table long term. You may consider pushing the back legs flush with the back edge. If the back will be seen, you may consider putting matching drawers on the back, for interest.

How are the drawers suspended? No dividers or bottom to support rails?

[Chris Friesen]

I found when doing research on ergonomics for building my own computer desk that (for me at least) the keyboard tray must be as low as possible over my knees. This precludes an apron or drawers immediately above my knees.

I ended up with a 18x48" keyboard tray, 1" thick, immediately above my knees. I work from home at the computer, and this has worked well for me for a number of years now.

Your mileage may vary...

[Jamie Buxton]

If you look at the front view and imagine pushing the desk top left or right, what stops it? I don't see anything preventing the legs from folding sideways.

[Cary Swoveland]

Lovely. Delicate. Perfect for a laptop or keyboard and flat-screen.

Thanks, Danny.

Since you asked for input . . .

Is this for a desktop computer? If so, how will you hide the wiring?

I'm lobbying the misses for a 20" iMac with wireless mouse and keyboard. All the peripherals will elsewhere in the room. Communication between the computer and peripherals will be either a single USB cable (going to USB hub), or wireless. So, aside from the iMac's power cord, there should be at most one other cord. I plan to just lay the cord(s) on the table and run them down the back of the table.

Re: Mitres. You could accomplish the front corner bevel after joining the front to the sides. So joint, then bevel. Easier said than done, though, since your front piece is wider than your sides. If that sounds difficult, go with plan A--no mitres.

Good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Any suggestions for the best way of doing that? Maybe with a jig on my 8" jointer?

Do you prefer the appearance of the top with or without mitres?

Back: Will the desk back up to a wall? If so, given the general size--only 24" deep and only 28.5" high--this table may become more of an accent or entry table long term. You may consider pushing the back legs flush with the back edge. If the back will be seen, you may consider putting matching drawers on the back, for interest.

It will be up against a wall, in an office/guest room that's only about 10'x12'. I think it will get good use as a workstation for a long time. One consideration for the placement of the back legs is the baseboard, though I don't know if I'd want the desk snug up against the wall anyway.

How are the drawers suspended? No dividers or bottom to support rails?

Considering that the drawers are so shallow, side rails probably make the most sense, but design-wise I'd prefer having rails underneath, so that the edges of the drawer-fronts are flush with the sides, and sides of adjacent drawers are almost touching. The drawers will carry very little weight, so there are a lot of options.

I would need to run two horizontal supports, one attached to the front legs, the other attached to the back legs. These could support six pieces of hardwood running front-to back, each with dadoes in which the drawer sides would sit i.e., the sides might extend 1/4" below the bottom (of the bottom) and the bottom of the back would be flush with the bottom. I can see that even if I made the supports with as little height as possible (e.g., using 3/4" angle iron for the horizontal supports, my plan for 45mm high drawer fronts (about 1-3/4") would not work. I think that to have at least 1" of inside drawer drawer and avoid side rails, the drawer fronts would have to be at least 2-1/2" high. Of course, I could have a single drawer (possibly with false fronts) with rails under on each side, disguised with some sort of decorative trim at the corners.

Many thanks, Danny.

Cary

[Cary Swoveland]

I found when doing research on ergonomics for building my own computer desk that (for me at least) the keyboard tray must be as low as possible over my knees. This precludes an apron or drawers immediately above my knees.

I ended up with a 18x48" keyboard tray, 1" thick, immediately above my knees. I work from home at the computer, and this has worked well for me for a number of years now.

Your mileage may vary...

Thanks, Chris. The desk will be used by both my wife and me. We're both retired, so don't use it all day. She likes the keyboard at elbow height. I had her sit in a desk chair set at a height comfortable for her and measured her elbows to the floor. That's how I came up with the table height. I like the keyboard a little higher, on a table, so I can lay my forearms on the table. One limitation to my design is that it does not provide enough room for one to cross his or her legs. I noticed my legs are crossed as I am writing this...

As you say, mileage varies.

Cary

[Cary Swoveland]

If you look at the front view and imagine pushing the desk top left or right, what stops it? I don't see anything preventing the legs from folding sideways.

James,

I'm relying entirely mainly on the rear apron, which is not shown in my drawing. That piece attaches to the two rear legs (with two dominos per leg) and butts to the top (can't be attached to the top because the latter will move front-to-back with humidity changes). That apron was to be about 2-3/4" tall, but since the back is against the wall, I could make it taller--say, 4"-5". In addition, there will be a horizontal piece in the front to support drawer runners--possibly 3/4" angle iron, as I explained in a different post--which would help somewhat.

What do you think?

Cary

[Jamie Buxton]

James,

I'm relying entirely mainly on the rear apron, which is not shown in my drawing. That piece attaches to the two rear legs (with two dominos per leg) and butts to the top (can't be attached to the top because the latter will move front-to-back with humidity changes). That apron was to be about 2-3/4" tall, but since the back is against the wall, I could make it taller--say, 4"-5". In addition, there will be a horizontal piece in the front to support drawer runners--possibly 3/4" angle iron, as I explained in a different post--which would help somewhat.

What do you think?

Cary

The taller rear apron will handle the rear legs, but I think it won't stabilize the front legs much at all. Can you prototype this part in cheap lumber before you commit to the good stuff?

[Cary Swoveland]

The taller rear apron will handle the rear legs, but I think it won't stabilize the front legs much at all. Can you prototype this part in cheap lumber before you commit to the good stuff?

Good idea--a prototype makes sense. It would not be difficult, and could answer questions beyond the racking issue, ones involving proportions and working heights, for example.

Cary

[Danny Thompson]

I haven't tried beveling with a jointer. (What am I saying? . . . I haven't tried anything with a jointer!) My thought was a panel raising bit on a router.

I think the miter is best, because of the elegance of the piece, but then I would want to miter the back corners as well.

[George Bregar]

Although the wood choice isn't, the design looks very Shaker to me...the thin tapered legs, drawers etc. so for the top I would do a breadboard end. It will help keep the top flat, and eliminate any cross grain issues. Add the bevel after it's assembled. I would use corner blocks to help prevent racking and also to attach the top. This piece is just like the slant top desk I built, except no top, which is actually a seperate piece.

[tim rowledge]

One thing you'll want to think about - especially with such a delicate design - is the weight of the machine. According to apple.com an iMac is 20-25lb depending on screensize. You've got that mass sitting at the top of four long (desk height) springs (delicate legs). You also have the mass of at least part of your arms for much of the time.

I do have a suggestion for a way to drastically improve the stiffness and at the same time provide a modicum of cable management. If you add a little material to the back of the top so that it can actually contact the wall then you could add small french cleats to the piece. This would *hugely* improve the stability. By extending to touch the wall you also provide somewhere you can have a definite slot for the cable(s). Sure, it means attaching the other half of the cleat to the wall but that's 4 screws maximum. You can still easily move the desk for vacuuming etc when needed. The thing about a definite 'this is a slot for cables' is that it doesn't look like cables just dropping down a gap.

You'll also want to provide a place for an external disk for the iMac, to support TimeMachine. I'd make a 'secret compartment' at the back I think - make one of the drawers a bit short and have a shelf for a 3.5" external disk. If you can, make it from expamet or other perforated metal to help with keeping it cool. Use a FireWire connection for speed.

[Cary Swoveland]

...so for the top I would do a breadboard end...

Good suggestion, George. I think I'll use tapered sliding dovetails for that, something I've not tried before.

...I would use corner blocks to help prevent racking and also to attach the top. This piece is just like the slant top desk I built, except no top, which is actually a seperate piece...

If you have a picture of the desk you built, I'd be very interested in seeing it.

I haven't started the desk yet, as other projects have cut into the line. I just finished a Murphy bed, and am half-way through a bed for my grandson.

I think I'll be changing the design some, in part because of "suggestions" from the better half. I think I'll have the more conventional pull-out keyboard tray (though I have an idea of how to make that attractive and interesting), meaning that I'll have 2-3 inches of additional height to work with. That provides a lot of options for better strength and rigidity, without compromising the basic design.

I'll put up a Sketchup drawing when I have the revised design.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Cary

One thing you'll want to think about - especially with such a delicate design - is the weight of the machine....

I do have a suggestion for a way to drastically improve the stiffness and at the same time provide a modicum of cable management. If you add a little material to the back of the top so that it can actually contact the wall then you could add small french cleats to the piece. This would *hugely* improve the stability. By extending to touch the wall you also provide somewhere you can have a definite slot for the cable(s). Sure, it means attaching the other half of the cleat to the wall but that's 4 screws maximum. You can still easily move the desk for vacuuming etc when needed. The thing about a definite 'this is a slot for cables' is that it doesn't look like cables just dropping down a gap.

Tim,

I think you're right about stability issue. The french cleat is an interesting idea for the desk, and possibly for other pieces down the line. I'd prefer to change the design to strengthen it enough to carry the weight, but I could add the cleat if end product is not sturdy enough.

You'll also want to provide a place for an external disk for the iMac, to support TimeMachine. I'd make a 'secret compartment' at the back I think - make one of the drawers a bit short and have a shelf for a 3.5" external disk. If you can, make it from expamet or other perforated metal to help with keeping it cool. Use a FireWire connection for speed.

Great idea! I've never heard of "expamet". I did a search and found a British company named Expamet, which makes construction products. Would you find it at a store like Home Depot? Firewire (800) it is.

Cary

[tim rowledge]

Great idea! I've never heard of "expamet".

Hmm, it's one of those terms that is on the way to being generic, like 'hoover' and 'xerox'. I'm pretty sure I've seen it at the borg, called something generic like 'expanded metal mesh'. Think of a smaller scale version of that stuff often used for stair treads on metal fire escapes. Basically anything that will allow plenty of air circulation in the moderately restricted area allowed by the delicacy of your design. Most of the stuff I've come across has tended to be a bit rough at the edges, so I'd recommend some abrasive cleaning to remove sharp edges the might scuff your disks case or even fray wires.

And for a TimeMachine disk I'd suggest aiming for a 500Gb one at least. I can't believe I just thought of a 500Gb disk as a 'small' one. My first hard disk was 20Mb. Now I have more than 2Tb sitting around the office.

[George Bregar]

Tim,

I think you're right about stability issue. The french cleat is an interesting idea for the desk, and possibly for other pieces down the line. I'd prefer to change the design to strengthen it enough to carry the weight, but I could add the cleat if end product is not sturdy enough.

Let me put to rest any stability issue. Like yours my desk is 24" deep, has 1.75" sq tapered to 1.25" sq legs and has a top section on it, has a printer, monitor, files, speakers, cable modem and supports the fold out slant top which if anything will act as a lever. ZERO stability issues even on carpet. Do not mess up your walls or piece with cuts or cleats. I just put my weight on it (don't ask) and doesn't even creek. I used mortise and tenson joinery for the 3" wide stretchers to the legs.

A hole with a grommet (or without) would be a more elegant solution for the wires, and if you build a shallow wire chase under the top like I did you will be set...noit necessary but nice. I will post some pics. BTW, for the breadboard I used a pinned M+T joint...the tenon was glued on the middle and pinned through slots at the ends...kind of a draw joint.