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Thread: Jointer Advice - Problem or feature?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    24

    Jointer Advice - Problem or feature?

    First, I want to thank Jason Beam - his recommendation iof using the One-Way Multi-Gauge to set the blades and check out the overall geometry of the bed has saved me hours of frustration.

    So I go out and buy the Multi-Gauge and start checking the jointer.

    The outfeed bed appears to be pretty flat (0.001) overall.

    The infeed is another story. Setting the infeed and outfeed beds at the same height I zero the gauge. Measuring the front edge (not fence side) of the jointer outfeed bed to the infeed I get zero. Moving the gauge to the fence edge and measure the same I get +0.015. I am thinking that is a lot of difference but how big a deal and what to do about it is another story.

    This jointer is an old Beaver (weights a TON). The infeed also has a slight dip at the feed edge compared to just in front of cutter head of -0.003. I am assuming this is a none issue due to how a jointer works but want to confirm with some folks who know a lot more than I do.

    I won't go in to how far off the blades were as that is just embarrassing and that was with a knife setting jig....

    So, with all that said -
    • Do I scrap the jointer and buy something else?
    • Do I attempt to shim the infeed table on the low side?
    • Do I ingore it and just set the blades at the same height and parallel to the outfeed bed?
    • Do I stop playing with sharp objects ?
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  2. #2
    Well heck, Glenn. Glad to hear how well you like that Multi-Gauge.

    So we're outta parallel, eh? By about 15 thou ... how wide is the jointer? On a 16" jointer, I may not fret much. But I know me, I'd want it as close to perfect as I can get it.

    I'd suggest you shim the outfeed table, though. I know you just got all your blades dialed in and you'd have to redo that, but my reasoning is that 99% of the time you won't be moving the outfeed table. Moving the infeed table is quite a bit more common, though I hardly ever need to unless I'm in a hurry.

    If my 8" were off by maybe .002-.003, in that plane, I might let it go. But .015 would go past my comfort zone.

    I'm very glad to hear that the Oneway did you up right. It's a great tool for setting planer knives, too!

    Edit: Oh, and as for the dip of .003 near the blades in the other dimension, it's not bad. You probably wouldn't notice any ill effect of that one. I might TRY to get both of those tables completely coplanar, but if i was within .003" on those things, I might be okay with it. It'd depend on my mood that day, though. Sometimes i'm persnikity!
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

    beamerweb.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    24
    Jason - thanks. It is a 6" jointer.... Your input is appreciated. Being the tinkerer that I am I will try to shim the bed. Good advice on shimming the outfeed.

    Any suggestions on a source for such a thin metal shim?
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  4. #4
    For shims that thin try : http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43456,43407

    the sampler pack for $7.50 is worth having around for all your shimming jobs. Of course once you start an order with Lee Valley, I doubt you will only spend $7.50

    For thicker shims I tend to make them out found objects (beer cans work great if you need the thickness).

    Another trick is to buy a cheap set of feeler gauges and use them.
    Last edited by Jeff Norri; 10-30-2007 at 12:06 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA
    Posts
    62
    Try a set of feeler gauges (automotive parts store). They're cheap, and sacrificial. I bought two so I could shim both sides of my jointer equally.

    Worked great and I could easily track thicknesses as I adjusted up/down. (not my original idea - just another good trick I picked up from this forum awhile back)
    -ed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
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    Good idea - would not have thought about them. Will give it a shot.

    Thanks
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
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    Thanks, I never think of turning to Lee Valley for this kind of stuff and they always have it. You are right, you never leave their site for $7.50.... Good stuff though.

    Thanks
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    24
    Thanks everyone - shimmed the bed using a feeler gauge, reset the blades and now I am a happy camper. You got to love that sound of a solid jointer as it cuts.

    The Multi-gauge made the setup a piece of cake.

    Glenn
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  9. #9
    Woohoo! Excellent news!

    What'd you get it dialed in to?
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

    beamerweb.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Fallbrook, California
    Posts
    3,562

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn Pearston View Post
    Thanks everyone - shimmed the bed using a feeler gauge, reset the blades and now I am a happy camper. You got to love that sound of a solid jointer as it cuts.

    The Multi-gauge made the setup a piece of cake.

    Glenn
    Great news Glenn. Isn't this a great place? You were ready to junk your jointer and got a quick fix that worked.
    Don Bullock
    Woebgon Bassets
    AKC Championss

    The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.
    -- Edward John Phelps

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    277
    I agree, this certainly is a great place - 10 times the help, 1/10 the attitude of other boards. I'm also (sorta) glad I spent about 4 hours day before yesterday setting the knives on my new PM54a, because now I'll REALLY appreciate the Multi-gauge I ordered after reading this thread :=))

    The gauge will see lots more use before I do knives again - I'll be replacing the trunnion on an older (green) PM66 saw (tilt teeth worn out) along with its worm gear, arbor bearings, etc, so will be aligning everything including the table before it's all back together.

    Jason, thanks for the recommendation, that gauge will get a lot of use in my shop. (I did get the PM54 knives within about .002" using the old "stick" method tho - used a 4' aluminum level instead of a stick, and a piece of thin paper as a "go-no-go" gauge. One pass set at 1/16" and a crappy old 2x4 felt like 600 grit sanded wood)

    Thanks again everyone, looking forward to being here a LOT... Steve

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Beam View Post
    Woohoo! Excellent news!

    What'd you get it dialed in to?
    After cleaning the rails on the infeed bed the tilt fell from .015 to .008 so I shimmed it using a .008 feeler gauge (a much better life for a feeler gauge) and put it back together. It is off by .001 and some day I might go change out the .008 for a .009 but I would have to be fairly bored to do it....

    The blades are within a 0.001 blade to blade and some insane frational portion of a 0.001 across the blade to bed. Could not have said that before using the OneWay Multi-gauge. I like that thing so much the next thing I am going to make is a lined box for it to set in.

    Thanks again - this did turn a lump of coal in to a diamond.
    Why do shop gnomes only steal the sharpened pencils?

  13. #13
    Very glad to hear it

    I never thought such a small number would be so dang important to me before I got a dial indicator. .001" was never a thought in my mind until then.
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

    beamerweb.com

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