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Thread: Plywood shop walls?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Independence, MO
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    324
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    1

    Plywood shop walls?

    All,
    I just saw a pic on another thread where a fellow SMC member (James Biddle, thank you!) has plywood walls in his shop. I looks great! Instead of highjacking his thread, I thought I would ask my questions in a new thread;

    How many have done this?
    How thick is the ply? 3/4, 1/2?
    Recommended quality (A, b or C)?
    Do you still need to find studs for reasonable weight shelves ( approx 50 lbs)?
    Do you biscuit the panel edges together?

    Too many questions...........


    Other pros and cons?

    Thanks all!!
    Greg
    Support the Creek!!!!

    (HEY! Where's my Contributor tag???)
    Last edited by Greg Muller; 11-02-2007 at 12:00 AM.
    My continuing search for old tools- rusthunter dot com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,554
    Greg,

    My shop has 1/2" plywood on the walls. I put 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling because it cost less. I wished I'd used plywood on the ceilling too! I already have one ding in it.

    I screwed the plywood to the studs. I'll use French cleats to mount cabinets but I would not hesitate to mount lightweight shelves to the plywood.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
    I have 1/2 on the walls and am glad I did. I can put things anywhere i want and not look for studs. When I mounted some cabinets I did go into the studs then but french cleats would have worked fine. I use A/C grade and didn't bother with biscuits on the joints - too much work. Since my electrical is surface mounted the ply went up real fast.
    Wife's request is another excuse for a new tool!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    North of Boston, Ma
    Posts
    88
    I also used 1/2" ply that I pre-painted white. It's great just being able to screw in anywhere.
    Al

  5. #5
    Rob Will Guest

    1/2" ply

    I used 1/2" ply and an air nailer with 6d ringshank nails.

    Started off with a whole skid of plywood from the borg. It was so bad I could not use it and had to take it back for a higher grade. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have went to a quality lumber yard and bought AC or BC sanded from the very beginning.

    Anyway, now that it's done, I really like the 1/2" ply. I used Bullseye 123 primer followed with two coats of semi-gloss latex house paint. Personally, I like a touch of color over stark white for the walls. My ceiling is white metal.

    If you really want a slick finish, run your electric sander over the walls before painting and perhaps between coats. We gave mine a quick once over with the sander and 100 grit paper (the good stuff). It actually went pretty quick....then used a gasoline leaf blower to blow off the dust.

    I had a painter help me get the painting done. He lightly caulked the nail holes and joint lines with latex caulk before painting. The exterior house paint was a little more expensive but it worked out well.

    Again, I'm very pleased and the only thing I would have done differently is buy the good plywood in the first place.

    Good luck!
    Rob

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
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    476
    Only thing that I would check on first would be if the shop is in an attached garage. Code may require drywall on the walls as a fire prevention measure. Years ago, garage interior walls were just the studs, nowadays, all the garage interiors are finished. Its not because they want to make it look pretty.
    Last edited by Bob Aquino; 11-02-2007 at 7:22 AM. Reason: minor typo

  7. #7

    sshop walls

    I used 5/8 OSB and it works great ( OSB because it was cheaper )

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    Well to break the mold.....I used wood-grained pegboard. That way I can hang stuff, always know where the studs are for shelf brackets, etc. Got used to the wall storage in the last shop.
    Bill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Elliston,Virginia
    Posts
    98
    On my shop I used Hardboard T=111 siding onthe interior walls,it came pre-primed a light gray.have not got around to painting it yet,only been 11years. I did like the fact that it interlocked so seams do not show. Has worked out well, though I do try to hit studs when hanging something unless it's a lightweight application. Recently remodeled an old storage building for a shop for LOML,used 3/8 exterior beaded board siding for the walls,put coat of clear satin poly on this,looks good. Again this had flanges which hid the seams. Building is only 12x12 so cost was not prohibitive.

  10. #10
    5/8 Sheet rock on ceiling because of Fire code. Probably should have on the walls as well but there I used 7/16 OSB from the Borg. $6 a sheet, prime it and paint semi-gloss and call it good enough for the shop. Now the shop cabinets, that's a different story. Them getting the good stuff.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Glendale, AZ
    Posts
    101
    When I built my shop I used 3/8" plywood for the interior. All my heavy adjustable shelving brackets are mounted to studs but lightweight stuff I can hang anywhere. The ply I got was shop grade from HD and every piece was flat when I picked it up in the morning and by the time I finished in the afternoon some of he sheets needed a bit pf persuasion to lay flat. I attached the sheets with construction adhesive and 15g finish nails.
    Scott
    Scott's Sharpening Service
    Glendale, AZ

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
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    Most of my shop walls above the 4 foot level are peg board. It allows me to hang hooks where ever I want them. My pegboard is spaced out from the studs so the hooks don't touch the insulation vapor barrier, but if I were to do it again I would hang drywall first for better protection of the insulation.

    I have one wall behind my lumber rack that is T-111 plywood with vertical running grooves about every 2-3 inches or so. It looks nice and the price was reasonable. It is 1/2" thick and I did anchor my lumber rack to the studs.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    306

    osb

    I put up half-inch osb, sealed it with Killz and one coat of white paint. Came out pretty nice.

  14. #14
    After marrying some 4X6" to some studs for hanging a heavy duty wood storage rack, I pre fit and pre painted a combination of 1/2-3/4" pieces of plywood. I attached them with evenly spaced screws and finish washers which produced a nice visual effect.

    I've since had to remove one of the panels to install another receptacle. Being able to simply remove the panel made it an easy task. We just had a 5.6 quake and the added shear strength provides another level of confidence.

    Vic

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    739
    I used 4X8 sheets of wainscotting plywood. I believe it was 7/16 thick. The ceiling and common wall to the house were drywalled first due to fire code requirements. Then I went over all the walls with the ply. At the top of the ply I used 1X4's as a french cleat to hide the top seam.

    Everything is screwed down to the studs. I have quite a bit of weight hanging from the french cleat and lighter stuff hanging from the plywood.

    One note, I decided to paint the plywood and exposed drywall white. I started with a roller and brush and quickly gave up on that idea. I ended up renting a house sprayer and doing everything with that. All 12 gallons worth.
    Wood'N'Scout

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