Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Performax 16-32 Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southeast of Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    20

    Performax 16-32 Question

    Hi Folks,

    I purchased a 16-32 a couple of weeks ago and now have it setup and aligned in the shop. It has one strip of 150g paper on it. I don't have any paper and am looking at buying a few rolls. My question is, what are handy rolls to have. I know this is largely dependant on what I'm going to be using it for, I think it does anyway.

    I'm not going to be using this for thicknessing. I have a planer.
    I am going to be using this for taking bandsaw marks off of resawn boards.
    I am going to be using this for running end grain cutting boards.
    I am going to be using this for flattening segmented turning pieces.

    My original thoughts were to have 120 and 150g rolls available. Is there an argument for 80-100 rolls and 180-220 rolls. I don't see me using this for finish sanding, nor rapid stock removal, but I was just wondering based on others experiences, what might be a reasonable selection for this thing.

    Thanks,

    Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    CLARKSVILLE, TN
    Posts
    178
    I typically run 80 and 120 on mine, but I use it for evening out glue ups.

  3. #3
    Tom, it does sound like you're going to use this for thicknessing (or making a surface level)

    I am going to be using this for taking bandsaw marks off of resawn boards.
    Either 60, 80, or 120 depending on the marks left from your resaw operation. I assume you're going rather thin so you may want a carrige.

    I am going to be using this for running end grain cutting boards.
    How much surfacing do you need to do? I've built a few large tops and even 36 grit on a Performax 16/32 wasn't much use. Renting time on a Timesaver is much more productive. Also the larger LN block planes are great for surfacing end grain cutting boards.

    I am going to be using this for flattening segmented turning pieces. Are you trying to flatten a face or get finish quality? If you're flattening then I would try 60, 80, and 120 and see what works.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southeast of Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    20
    So you don't really see a need to take it past 120 when evening the glueups? I'm going to be using it for that too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southeast of Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    20
    Thanks for the reply, Steve. I'm hoping to NOT use this for finishing...just evening really. I suppose it sounds like thicknessing and when you put it that way maybe I'm misusing terms. My general hope with this unit is to just work on glueups, resaws and panel glueups. I have not gripes against my ROS to do the finishing work.

    I think I'll probably stick with the coarser grits for now then.

    Thanks,

    Tom

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    The coarser grits are going to leave some pretty good scratch lines which you'll probably want to run through the 16-32 again with a finer grit. I'd try for 80 or 100 and see where that gets you before deciding if you need to downshift to the 60 grit. Anything much finer than that is just going to need too many passes for taking out saw marks. Just my 2 drachmas.
    Use the fence Luke

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Lacey, Washington
    Posts
    412
    I've pretty well settled on 100 grit. Then finish up with the ROS. I've done two kitchens and several pieces of furniture. Dick B.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    1,050
    I pretty much use just 120grit on mine. I found little need for the other grits.

  9. #9
    I only use 80 and 120 on mine. The 80 is good for taking off small amounts to even out veneer cut on a bandsaw or glue ups with uneven surface. 120 for the final sanding before using a ROS.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southeast of Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    20

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the replies folks. That's just the info I was looking for. I appreciate your time in reading and replying to this post.

    Tom

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
    Posts
    2,103
    I use 120 or 150 for sanding out burn marks and saw marks.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Craig D Peltier View Post
    I use 120 or 150 for sanding out burn marks and saw marks.
    Are you still here?.. Go camp out on that guy's door and dont leave without that Jet TS.
    Use the fence Luke

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Upper Dublin, Pa.
    Posts
    276

    My preference

    I use 100,150, and 220 on my 22-44 performax. The 100 is great for leveling. I use the other grits for taking out bandsaw marks on veneer. When sanding thin veneer use a carrier. I use a piece of 3/4 MDV. BTW it's much cheaper to buy your veneer in large rolls then the ready to wrap boxes of three. Industrial Abrasives is a good supplier. Enjoy your new sander
    Dave

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    CLARKSVILLE, TN
    Posts
    178
    You will find, that 80 and 120 work very well on that machine. I have ran oak and jatoba through mine and that is all I need. I use the 80 less than the 120 due to scratches left behind. I finish sand by hand just to get the feel that I want.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
    Posts
    2,347
    Quote Originally Posted by GERALD HARGROVE View Post
    You will find, that 80 and 120 work very well on that machine. I have ran oak and jatoba through mine and that is all I need. I use the 80 less than the 120 due to scratches left behind. I finish sand by hand just to get the feel that I want.
    i just got one of these off of craigslist and would prefer to keep the sandpaper changes to a minimum. i'll give the 80/120 combo a try after i figure out how to align it.

Similar Threads

  1. Performax 16/32 question
    By Joe Mioux in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-04-2007, 11:56 AM
  2. Performax Rename?
    By Doug Shepard in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-09-2006, 9:03 PM
  3. Lathe and bowl question
    By Jason Wulff in forum Turner's Forum
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 01-06-2006, 2:09 PM
  4. Help with Jet Performax Warranty
    By John Weber in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-13-2004, 10:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •