What wood to use?

[John Miliunas]

Recently, I submitted a thread on getting a "driftwood gray" look for wood. The general consensus was to use some type of dye, preferably , water-based. OK, I still need to pick some up and experiment. But, that's a lead-in to another question then: What wood flavor might work the best for something like that? This will be in a bathroom, hence frequent and drastic humidity/temp cycles. Although LOML wants the "driftwood appearance", most driftwood I've ever seen is still pretty rustic looking. "Rustic" is not what she wants, but primarily the color. So, all 'ye masters of dyeing woods, what say 'ye? Oh, and I'll probably be finishing everything with either, water-based poly or lacquer, (satin or semi-gloss) sprayed most likely.

[Todd Burch]

John, Honduran Mahogany is a geat choice. It is a good outdoor wood, (it can handle wet/dry cycles) and develops a beautiful grey/silver patina when left unfinished outside. If you make the project, and leave it outside to "suntan" and weather, you will get exactly what you want.

Teak will do the same thing - for 10X the cost.

[Martin Shupe]

John,

A long time ago, I wanted a picture frame made from "weathered" wood. I was able to procure some wood that had been salvaged from a barn. I don't remember what kind of wood it was (not being a woodworker at the time), but it was a beautiful silvery grey.

You might be able to find some salvaged lumber that is "pre-finished" for the look you want.

Just a thought.

[John Miliunas]

Todd, thanks for the tip, but this really can't wait for a seasonal cycle to turn it gray. I wonder how it would take to the dye method?

Martin, I already thought of that one, as well. Fact is, I do have a "supplier" who is constantly tearing down old barns and the such. Problem is, when one takes that wood and starts to mill and finish it, you end up with whatever lovely wood color it originally started with.

I'll probably end up just getting several different flavors of wood and doing some experimenting with the dye(s) and see what I come up with. (Now why couldn't LOML just be content with the natural color of th wood?!)

[Michael Ballent]

Todd, thanks for the tip, but this really can't wait for a seasonal cycle to turn it gray. I wonder how it would take to the dye method?

Martin, I already thought of that one, as well. Fact is, I do have a "supplier" who is constantly tearing down old barns and the such. Problem is, when one takes that wood and starts to mill and finish it, you end up with whatever lovely wood color it originally started with.

I'll probably end up just getting several different flavors of wood and doing some experimenting with the dye(s) and see what I come up with. (Now why couldn't LOML just be content with the natural color of th wood?!)

How about an old wood fence...it's weathered and already grey... and if you get it late at night it would not cost you a dime but really look around you may find some laying out in front of someone's home.

Michael

[Dick Parr]

John, why not pick up some old barn wood? Our woodcraft store stocks it and I think it was only $1.00 a bft. Check around at you local wood suppliers to see if they have any. Also check the paper. Good Luck

[Chris Padilla]

Todd, thanks for the tip, but this really can't wait for a seasonal cycle to turn it gray. I wonder how it would take to the dye method?

Hrrmph! I guess tossing some Cypress outside for a spell is out of the question! It turns a beautiful silver/ash color and is a fantastic wood for outside.

My Dad made a bench for the garden out of Cypress...no finish whatsoever...looks just fine after 4 years in the great Colorado outdoors. Even the wood sitting in the dirt is just fine. Too bad I don't have a pic for you.

[Paul Heagen]

John,

Here are a few "old school" ideas.

I don't recall as I write this that you mentioned what kind of wood you were using, just that you were after a driftwood color, and perhaps texture.

As far as tgetting the color...

If you are using Oak, you can make the equivalent of a iron oxide soluton by taking some rusty nails or other rusted iron and letting it soak for a few days in some white vinegar. Wiping it on the wood will usually result in a nice silvery gray color (but experiment because it reacts with the tannic acid in the wood that may vary).

I have done this on some Mission-style oak pieces, but I usually follow up with a wash of ammonia,. which turns it a darker gray, almost black.

The other chemical approach is ferrous sulfate, which is available at most school supply or chemstry supply places. I make a weak solution and wash either oak or maple and you get a silver/gray color most of the time. It may work on other species but I'm not sure.

As far as a weathered texture...
You might want to consider sandblasting or using a coarse sanding "whip" (you can find them at web tool supply sites) that have brass wires attached. It will rough up the wood in a straight line that simulates weather grain by removing the soft wood fibers first, so you have a real textured look to it. A lot of work, but other than tearing down a 100-year-old barn, I don't know how else to duplicate the aesthetic ravages of time and nature.

Hope that helps.

[John Miliunas]

John,

Here are a few "old school" ideas.

If you are using Oak, you can make the equivalent of a iron oxide soluton by taking some rusty nails or other rusted iron and letting it soak for a few days in some white vinegar. Wiping it on the wood will usually result in a nice silvery gray color (but experiment because it reacts with the tannic acid in the wood that may vary).

I have done this on some Mission-style oak pieces, but I usually follow up with a wash of ammonia,. which turns it a darker gray, almost black.

The other chemical approach is ferrous sulfate, which is available at most school supply or chemstry supply places. I make a weak solution and wash either oak or maple and you get a silver/gray color most of the time. It may work on other species but I'm not sure.

PAUL! You may well be my "hero"! That's exactly the kind of solution I'm looking for! Oak is indeed one of the woods considered, due to availability, cost and general longengevity. OK, now I need to find me some of that there ferrous sulfate stuff! Any idea what constitutes a "weak solution"? Thanks so, so much!

[Larry Ball]

JOHN,
not too long ago I was doing some projects with weathered cedar. The problem came on the fresh cuts that exposed fresh cedar and took away from the aged patina look. I simply took a scrap piece, to the local hardware store and kept matching stains on the fresh cut until I came up with a close match. The color I found was "weathered barn" but for the life of me I can't remember the manufacturer . Hope that helps. There is a stain that will do the job.

[Paul Heagen]

[John,

There is no strict science to it, but I suggest about an ounce of ferrous sulfate to a quart of distilled water. Unlike stains or dyes, you can always start weaker and add solution to get to the color you want.

If you don't have a scale, then take about a tablesoon of ferrous sulfate into a quart and experiment. You can then cut that solution with water if its too strong.

Enjoy the ride.

[Martin Shupe]

Martin, I already thought of that one, as well. Fact is, I do have a "supplier" who is constantly tearing down old barns and the such. Problem is, when one takes that wood and starts to mill and finish it, you end up with whatever lovely wood color it originally started with.

John,

In the case of the picture frame, I think what they did is to take barn weathered wood, and only surface the inside and edges (probably with a jointer), leaving the outside, weathered part, untouched and exposed. Not sure it would work with your project, though.

[Keith Hall]

Recently, I submitted a thread on getting a "driftwood gray" look for wood. The general consensus was to use some type of dye, preferably , water-based. OK, I still need to pick some up and experiment. But, that's a lead-in to another question then: What wood flavor might work the best for something like that? This will be in a bathroom, hence frequent and drastic humidity/temp cycles. Although LOML wants the "driftwood appearance", most driftwood I've ever seen is still pretty rustic looking. "Rustic" is not what she wants, but primarily the color. So, all 'ye masters of dyeing woods, what say 'ye? Oh, and I'll probably be finishing everything with either, water-based poly or lacquer, (satin or semi-gloss) sprayed most likely.

John, When I was building vacation homes in the Fla keys, many clients wanted the weathered look on their homes. The most successful product I found was Cabot's bleaching oil. I sprayed or brushed it on, let it work, then hosed it off. The places looked like they had been there for 50 yrs.

[John Miliunas]

John, When I was building vacation homes in the Fla keys, many clients wanted the weathered look on their homes. The most successful product I found was Cabot's bleaching oil. I sprayed or brushed it on, let it work, then hosed it off. The places looked like they had been there for 50 yrs.

Thanks much for the suggestions, gentlemen! I've got a few to try now. As soon as I locate local suppliers for said supplies, I'm going to start experimenting. Muchos gracias!