Steady Rest Position For Bowls

[John Padgett]

Hello. I have made about 6 bowls now and cannot figure out where the rest should be. When hollowing, I keep it just below center. Where should it be on the outside of the bowl?
Also, I have two scrapers: a round and a flat. Every time I use either one it makes horrible catches. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance. John.

[John Hart]

John...I assume you are talking about the toolrest and not a steady rest from your description. As far as position of the toolrest, your catches may be caused by being below center. This allows the tool to make a bigger bite and will result in a catch. Raise the toolrest so that the bevel of the tool is allowed to ride the surface of the piece comfortably and also let you have control of the cut. It's a touchy-feely thing that you'll need to adjust for different curves. Inside curves, I go a tad lower....but this is a personal thing and it is constantly changing. Light cuts are key. I know it is easy to get caught up in gouging out big ol' curlies...but light cuts bring more success.

[Sean Troy]

Your tool should be cutting at or very slightly above center. Once you have the correct height figured out, cut a piece of pvc pipe as a sleeve for the tool post to keep the rest at that particular height. I do that for each diameter tool and never have to worry about correct height again. It makes moving the tool post fool proof as you move the rest around a turning.

[David Fried]

Also, I have two scrapers: a round and a flat. Every time I use either one it makes horrible catches. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance. John.

Scrapers should be cutting below the center of the bowl, “trailing position”, with the handle above the center of the bowl. I start low and raise the scraper up until I get the cut I want.

They should be sharp. Sharpening puts a burl on them which helps them cut. When I want them to be less aggressive I run a file over the flat top to remove the burr.

Use the round one on the inside and outside of the bowl. Only use the flat one on the outside. You really only want to have them making contact at a point. If the radius of the round one is less than the radius of the bowl then it will only make contact at a point. Likewise, it you use the square one on the inside then the corners will make contact and bad things can happen.

[joe greiner]

I agree with David, except better to place the cutter below the equator outside, above the equator inside. At these locations, the wood is moving away from the cutter and less likely to have a dig-in. For cross-grain mounting, consider a bowl gouge: varying cutter locations (along the edge) allow more of a slicing cut and thus a better finish before sanding.

Joe

[John Padgett]

Thanks. That helps a lot. Yes, I think I was referring to the tool rest. What is a steady rest?

[John Padgett]

For cross-grain mounting, consider a bowl gouge: varying cutter locations (along the edge) allow more of a slicing cut and thus a better finish before sanding.

Joe

I used to use the spindle gouge that came with my shopsmith for roughing out and turning spindles. Then I got a 3/4" roughing gouge. Man, that really took off the wood! Is there a bowl roughing gouge? I have two bowl gouges: a regular and a fingernail grind.

[joe greiner]

Thanks. That helps a lot. Yes, I think I was referring to the tool rest. What is a steady rest?

A steady rest is a two-, three-, or four-wheel affair that supports a long workpiece without using the tailstock. For example, drilling a tool handle, hollowing a goblet, and such. Google [woodturning steady] for more than you ever wanted to know. Lots of products available, and tons of DIY examples too.

[Some steady rests, mostly for metal lathes, have rigid bars with rounded ends instead of wheels. Also, a cat's cradle - like DIY contraption called a string steady for very light pieces such as trembleurs. (Spelling?)]

Joe