Adding a router to a TS

[Ed Brady]

Does anyone have experience adding a router to a SawStop or PM 2000? I could use some ideas for these or other saws (e.g., Unisaw, Steel City) to help me plan my purchase.

Thanks

[Tom Veatch]

Does anyone have experience adding a router to a SawStop or PM 2000? I could use some ideas for these or other saws (e.g., Unisaw, Steel City) to help me plan my purchase.

Thanks

Is there anything unique about those models that would make the installation different than for some other saw?

I assume the plan is to mount a router and lift in the right extension table. If the table is like mine, i.e., plywood or particle board with a melamine or composite surface, it's just a case of locating where you want the router, cutting a thru hole for the router body and lift and inletting the table top for the lift's top plate. Even if you screw it up big-time, just get another piece of material and go at it again.

Depending on the lift, you can probably buy a template for routing the recess or you can make your own template from the plate itself. That will probably be a two step process using bushings and properly sized straight bits.

Maybe if you were a little more explicit about what your concerns might be?

[Don Bullock]

Ed, this year I've seen many posts showing router tables attached to either a SawStop or a PM. I'd suggest doing some searches.

Tom, the SawStop has a unique table size (deeper) that can cause problems installing a premade router table. It also has a large door for cabinet access that may get in the way of a router. Otherwise installing a router table on a SawStop is similar to other saws. I'm not sure about a PM.

[Ed Brady]

Thanks for the responses. Here are more specifics about my question. PM offers the PM 2000 with a router lift accessory, so wondered if anyone had bought one that way.

Because of limited space and the way my shop is set up I'd prefer to have the router to the left if possible. Peachtree and others sell cast iron wing replacements that would be nice, but two problems come up. The motor housing on some saws is on the left and prevents router installation. For some like SS the table is too wide to accommodate the cast iron wings.

Making my own extension table as Tom suggests is probably the way I'll go, but that means I'll have the router to the right in a less accessible position.

I'll do another search for previous posts.

Thanks again.

Ed

[Scott Rollins]

I have the sawstop and I have drilled and tapped holes into the cast iron top to attach a router table on the right and a soon to be completed sliding table on the left. The 30" top will leave a 1" gap on an aftermarket router table, but I would shift it to the front and leave a 2"-3" gap in the back. You could trim it out with a wood of your choice or leave it. This would only be visual and would not affect the function of the saw or the router table...my 2cents.