Best Way to Transport and Unload a Cabinet Saw?

[Rob Anthony]

There are some great ideas here guys. I'm leaning towards using the utility trailer because it's low to the ground and has ramps that we can walk it down. I'm thinking I'll strap it to an appliance dolly and the two of us can just walk it down <fingers crossed>.

While it's in the trailer, we'll use ratchet straps to make attach the dolly and saw tightly to the sides.

I also have a couple of moving dollies that I can use to build a sled for the thing with some 2x's and plywood sheets, but then I'd run into trouble getting it off once it was in the garage. If the moving dolly doesn't look like it will work, then I'll probably go that route. Worst case, I can break it down completely once it's home and lift it off the dolly piece by piece, but I'll avoid that if possible.

Wish me luck and I'll post some pics of my new baby once I get her home.

Cheers!
Rob

[M Toupin]

Use the van or a pickup truck. Remove the wings and leave the top on, at that point you have a box. Open the back of the van/truck and back up to the saw. The top of the saw should be a bit higher than the bed of the vehicle at that point. If not shim it up with 2X4s so the top edge is slightly higher than the bed of the vehicle. Tilt the saw into the bed so it's resting with the edge on the bed. Grab it by the bottom and rotate it into the bed with it resting on the top. To unload it just reverse the process.

A uni is not that heavy or awkward, there really is no need to remove the top or motor. When you get it home flip it out onto a furniture mover or use an appliance dolly if you need to get it down stairs.

I've used all the above listed methods, this is the easiest way I've found. Don't over think it.


Mike

[Ryan Eldridge]

I used a utility trailer to move my unisaw a few weeks ago. I bought it from a shop just like you it sounds. It was on a pallet and the shop I bought it from forked it on the trailer for me.

I then used some ratcheting tie downs (4 I think) two over the top and then two more to capture the sides.

When I got home I parked it in the garage for a night and then the next day hitched the trailer back up to make sure it would not flip up on me, lowered the ramp, lifted the edge of the pallet a little bit to get some cardboard under it.

Then I just started inching on the trailer bed until it was on the cardboard, slid it down the ramp carefully and it was done, I think it took me about 10 mins to do it alone.

I like the trailer idea.

[Heather Thompson]

Two weeks ago my husband and I brought home my new (used PM66), top removed and no wings, we lifted it out of the back of my 05 Dakota. Just think the lift through, I weigh 128 and my husband has cerebal palsy, think and be safe. Enjoy your new saw!!!!!!!!

Heather

[Alfred Clem]

With home sales as lousy as they are, the moving guys' business is in a slump, if you were to ask my guess. Why not get them to drop by your place and give you a hand? Shouldn't cost as much as a hernia or a smashed hand. There is an intelligent limit to all this do-it-yourself macho nonsense. Let the pros earn a living.

Al Clem
Sedona, AZ

[Paul Joynes]

Alfred has it right. I paid $80/hr for two professional movers to place my General 650 into my basement.

[Lawrence Smith]

When I bought my used PM 66 I used a rental truck with a hydraulic lift gate to move it. The cabinet shop I bought it from had it on a dolly and my son and I just rolled it onto the lift gate, raised it up to the truck bed and into the truck. We tied it securely to the truck sides and secured the dolly it was on. We did the reverse procedure when we got it to my shop. Getting it off the dolly was not a problem. We just slide it onto a stack of two by fours and one by one removed them until it was on the shop floor. I believe the total cost of the rental truck was less than $75 bucks plus fuel.

[Robert Conner]

I picked up a UniSaw two weeks ago. I took the extensions off, Blocked the motor as they do with a new Saw. Lower the motor onto a block of wood between the motor and the side cabinet. Just use the hand wheel so it is supported not hanging from the mounts, you might want to cushion it with a heavy towel the factory does this with a block of foam. I slid the saw into a compact pick up truck on its' back. If your saw has any protrusions either remove them or block it up you might want to use some more towels to cushion it. I placed a 2x4 under the back again with some towels. Two people were needed to tilt and lift it onto the truck and to remove it. I moved it around with a hand truck.
I have also used a Jeep Cherokee to move one.
Robert

[Lewis Cobb]

My wife and I unloaded a General 650 from the minivan, down the stairs, and into the shop using an appliance dolly for the stairs move.

To get it out of the van, we layed it on its back, slid it out of the van base first, and stood it up as it came out of the van.

The appliance dolly took care of the move from the driveway, through the house and down the stairs. To lift it onto the mobile base, I used a shop crane and some nylon slings.

Doing it the above way requires that you only lift a fraction of the weight in any step, (except for the shop crane part) which makes it safer for you and your machinery..........Regards, Rod.

Hi Rod - what's this shop crane you are talking about? Have you got a picture of this thing? Is it a DIY thing or something you bought?

I'm contemplating the purchase of a jointer that I am going to have to hoist up somehow and set down on a mobile base.

[Rob Anthony]

The saw is now safely home in my garage. I put way too much thought into it as it was really no problem at all. We were able to drag it into the trailer with no problem, then just turned it over onto it's top for transportation. It rode well upside down. When we got home, my brother and I stood it back up and got it onto a mover's dolly. It rolled out of the trailer easily from there.

I was expecting a huge problem, but it was actually pretty easy to do.

I'll take some pics later. The gentleman who sold it to me powered it up in the shop and it ran fine. It still has an original Rockwell motor.

The top has a few dinks, but overall it appears to be in good shape. The tilt and raise wheels spin smoothly. I'll have to check it out when I get some spare time this weekend to see if it needs adjustment.

It was repainted at some point in it's 42 year lifetime. It looks OK, but has some spots that are peeling. I think I'll at least strip down the outside and give it a nice even coat before it makes it downstairs into the shop.

The dust cover has been replaced with a painted piece of MDF, and the motor cover is not there, but that wasn't unexpected.

All in all, it's a decent piece. For $405 I'm very happy at this point.

Now I just need to order a VFD, put an Amana blade on there, and put it to use...

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys!

Cheers!
Rob

[keith ouellette]

I had to move a saw once and another time I moved a very heavy combo machine. I did both the same way. On a pallet (your only interested on the down part) right side up. All I had to do was slide the pallet down a ramp using a come along (It's a wench you crank by hand: cost $20) I had a lawn trailer with a ramp gate and put a piece of plywood on the ramp to make it easier. It worked great.

[Steve Leverich]

Lewis, this is probably what you're asking about -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35915

also often called a "cherry picker"... Steve

[Bob Feeser]

Everybones situation is different, but I will reflect on how I did it for my situation. Anything that you can glean from it is welcome.
I bought a new Powermatic 66 in 2004. I have a shop in the basement. The stairs are not that wide, and at the bottom, a wall juts out, narrowing the passageway. It's a 600 pound saw.
I called Powermatic, and they said, remove the top, and the motor, but do not touch the trunion. (It would be a bugger to get it set right again)
So I removed the few bolts that held the cast iron top on, then I tilted the cabinet over onto a blanket, with the motor opening side facing down. I had moved the blade so the motor would be retracted into the cabinet area, so when I lowered it, the motor would not be hitting the ground. Then after lowering to the ground, I used the bevel handle/wheel to gently lower the motor until it touched the blanket. I only had to remove 2 bolts, undo the belts, and then lift the saw back to upright. (There is not adjustment for the motor, because it slides along 2 flat iron surfaces, so other than getting the belt tension right, it is a no brainer.) Then I wrapped the 100 pound motor in a blanket, tied it to a hand truck, and moved it down stairs. I did the same thing with the cast iron top, and the cabinet to the saw, which at this time weighed about 300 and some pounds. Once in the basement, I was able to lay the hand truck down, and roll it into the other room, then reassemble.
I also had this challenge with a heavy 8" jointer, which I could not disassemble. The fear, and danger is that the thing starts to move on you, and you can not stop it on the way down the steps, and it winds up taking you and it to the basement, pinning you to the floor, and possibly worse.
So when I moved my old Band Saw, circa 1948 made out of cast iron, I used a hand truck, heavy duty, and a come along, and slowly winched it down the steps. I was below it, but only to hold it on one of the steps, while re-positioning the outfeed on the come along. It was a 2 man job, go slow.
I was dreaming of a PM 20" planer 5hp, but it weighs 700 pounds or more, and you can not disassembe it, so it may be on permanent back shelf, in the priority department, and I do not want to dedicate the space in the garage, and have to go up the steps into another room, every time I want to plane a board.
Hope some of this helps.

[Lewis Cobb]

Lewis, this is probably what you're asking about -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35915

also often called a "cherry picker"... Steve

Thanks Steve -
strange looking thing - amazing what you learn trolling the threads on this forum. I am sure I can bum or rent one of these locally when the time comes.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Mark Hulette]

Thanks Steve -
strange looking thing - amazing what you learn trolling the threads on this forum. I am sure I can bum or rent one of these locally when the time comes.

Cheers,
Lewis

Lewis- those are also known as an engine hoist (used to pull engines out of cars )- just about any auto mechanics shop will have one (you probably know someone that has one!)