Logging question re logs suitable for ww'ing

[Rob Blaustein]

I realize the answer may depend on the type of thing one is building, but in general what size logs are usable for woodworking projects? My neighbor just had a big rotting maple tree cut down and there a bunch of logs that look free of rot. It's dark now and I haven't scoped out all of them yet, but there are several that are at least a foot in diameter. Also, can one cut logs to board size with your basic 14" bandsaw (eg Grizzly G0555) or do you need something big? I've only done a few basic things with my bandsaw, and using 1" thick wood (not resawing). I'll try to take some pics in a day or so.
--Rob

[Todd Burch]

Take a 8' long 2X6 and run it through your band saw (resaw it) to see how it does. See it that is something you are up for. If you teeter on the fence after that exercise, then consider doing it with a wet maple round log. 10X the weight, and round. Don't even consider it unless you have an outfeed table to support the whole of the outfeed. That's a pretty small saw, but it can be done (I did it). You didn't mention if you have the riser block (assuming the griz takes one).

Take a carpenter's square to the end of the log. See what kind of rectangle you can get out of it. That's your CANT. Do the small end, not the large end.

Got a place to dry it? You get the worst (most) degrade with air drying of any drying. Be prepared for losses.

In the end, it's cheaper to buy rough lumber from the guys who sell it. But, it is good exercise and fun if you like hard work.

Todd

[Rob Blaustein]

Take a 8' long 2X6 and run it through your band saw (resaw it) to see how it does. See it that is something you are up for. If you teeter on the fence after that exercise, then consider doing it with a wet maple round log. 10X the weight, and round. Don't even consider it unless you have an outfeed table to support the whole of the outfeed. That's a pretty small saw, but it can be done (I did it). You didn't mention if you have the riser block (assuming the griz takes one).

Take a carpenter's square to the end of the log. See what kind of rectangle you can get out of it. That's your CANT. Do the small end, not the large end.

Got a place to dry it? You get the worst (most) degrade with air drying of any drying. Be prepared for losses.

In the end, it's cheaper to buy rough lumber from the guys who sell it. But, it is good exercise and fun if you like hard work.

Todd

Todd,
I don't have a riser block. I'll try the 2x6 experiment at some point. Can it be dried outside, but covered by a tarp. My shed is only 6'x6' and not set up for that kind of storage. And I would worry about all that moisture. I agree, it might be a good exercise. My neighbor has kindly offered whatever I'd like, he'll slowly use it up for firewood.
Rob

[Fred Jones]

I would suggest finding a portable sawmill and taking the log in to have it sawed. TimberKing at 800-942-4406 will give you a list of sawmill owners near you. You will get usable lumber from a 12 inch or up diameter log. But smaller logs take more time than larger logs and thus may cost more per board foot to have sawn.

[Todd Burch]

Sorry, just saw your reply.

Yes, I would dry it outside. It should be covered in a way that air can circulate through the stack, so just covered on top. I've used OSB covered in tar paper. Books say to stack it with the long side towards the prevailing winds. Not sure what that means in a backyard.

Todd

[Cody Colston]

Rob,

I have a GO513 band saw and have sawn quite a bit of lumber with it...mostly Cedar but some Cypress and Elm, also. In fact, I just today finished building an outdoor planter from the Cypress planks that I sawed a year ago February.

12" logs are definitely good for lumber but as Todd noted, are pretty heavy to handle. You will need an infeed and outfeed table that will support the log.

I cut my logs into 4' - 5' lengths. That is long enough for most of the woodworking projects you will build except maybe a dining table. That is also short enough to handle by yourself.

Cut the planks to a minimum 1" thickness so that you can joint/plane off any warp after they are dry. I'd recommend you level some cinder blocks placed app. every 2 ft. to support the planks. Place stickers across the blocks and between each layer of planks. The stickers need to be of the same species if wet but if dry, any wood will work.

A good cover for the stack is corrugated sheet metal placed so that it is slightly higher on one end for drainage. Sand bags on top of the sheet metal will keep it from blowing away.

Like Todd said, it's about as cheap and a lot easier to buy rough-sawn lumber from a mill. But, there's something really satisfying about going from tree to finished project and knowing you did it all yourself.

[Randy Moore]

Give the wood to turner, he would be glad to take it off your hands.

DON'T let it go to firewood!

Randy

[Irvin Cooper]

Coming from a sawyer....
You need to either cut it into lengths (24") for turning, or find someone with a portable mill to mill for you.

And you will need time and space to dry.

Not even reasonable to consider doing it yourself without appropriate handling equipment.

Hope this helps.

Irv

[Rob Will]

Coming from a sawyer....
You need to either cut it into lengths (24") for turning, or find someone with a portable mill to mill for you.

And you will need time and space to dry.

Not even reasonable to consider doing it yourself without appropriate handling equipment.

Hope this helps.

Irv

What Irv said. I have a friend with a WoodMizer. Also we use a forklift and a hydraulic grapple on a tractor. It takes some serious iron to make this an easy job.
If you do cut these logs, be sure to apply some sort of end sealer to the log.
Rob

[Chris Padilla]

What Rob said: if you cut the log down into 4' chunks, immedieatly seal the ends because it is easier now than doing individual boards later. I don't know about anyone else but I've had success just slopping on whatever paint I have laying around.

[Jeff Booth]

I agree with what everyone else has said. I've had a fair amount of luck slabbing stuff like that down with a length wise cut with a chainsaw. It takes a little practice and it is not really what I would do with a very valueable log, but for stuff that is not too huge it can easily get the log down to pieces that fit onto my bandsaw. Shorter is waaaay easier too, 5-6ft is about what I like.

If possible I always get someone to help me for the resawing portion. My bandsaw can do 10" but my planer can only do 8", so I have learned that I simply just try to make slightly wider than 8" wide planks, no use struggling to get the last little bit under the blade guard only to trim some off later. I use green wood end sealer and it works pretty well, but it is important to get it on quickly.

Sure you can buy wood in the rough for less than the sweat equity but there is something really satisfying about taking it from tree all the way to project. You can always mention later where the wood came from.

Jeff

[Ted Christiansen]

Rob,

I have done it and found it to be worth it. If you have a strong back then I would go for it - you have nothing to lose. I am trying to attach a picture of my method, but am having trouble. I will try later. Basically I use 1/2" plywood to support the log while cutting.

I slice the log into two halves, cut a face 90 degrees to the half slice, and then the opposite side making a three sided "cant." Now use a chalk line to mark a 1" thick board and cut freehand (don't use the fence).

I air dried in my basement with good success.

Regards,

Ted

[Todd Burch]

I air dried in my basement with good success.

This was obviously before you moved to Houston!!!

Todd

[Randy Cohen]

i have a book...Chainsaw Lumbermaking...i got it after Hugo passed through here almost 20 years ago. it gives some good tips as to how to mill lumber with your chainsaw. but it is a slow process.
basically you attach a piece of lumber (2x8,2x10,etc) to the top of a log. you then drill a couple of holes in a chainsaw bar to which you attach a wooden guide. you use spacers and threaded rod to adjust the depth. i wouldn't want to mill a lot of lumber this way but it could get you some rough cuts to then resaw.

[Rob Blaustein]

Here's what I've got--pics are below and in next post.
The longest log is about 8 feet long (pic is on next post)--most have been cut up to make it easier to chop for firewood (at least that's my guess, since that was neighbor's original intent). That one is about 2 feet in diameter. The smaller ones are around 6-8 inches in diameter and a few feet long--probably too small.
I guess I should review Stu Ablett's logging saga...
He does provide a link to a site that shows how to modify one's chainsaw.

Anyone know how much folks with those portable mills charge in the Northeast? Not sure it would be worth it for a lot this size.

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