3/4 " router bit

[charlie kapper]

I am just about to makethe 3/4 inch holes in my bench top. I did a quick search for a 3/4 inch upcut spiral router bit. Had some sticker shock on the price of the bit. CMT bit about $180.00. If I cannot find them cheaper, I just might use a drill bit. Has anyone found a reasonably priced 3/4" router bit and where?

regards,
Charlie Kapper

[glenn bradley]

Alternate $52 approach: #1411


http://www.woodworkersworld.net/round_nose_bits.shtml

[keith ouellette]

I don't think you need an up cut spiral for the job. I bought an entire 70 piece set from mcls for less than that and it included a 3/4 and 1 inch dada bit. I used the dado bit for something similar to what you are doing and it worked great. It kept cutting after I went through part of a 12 penny nail. The problem is that it only had a one inch cutting depth. mcls has a 3/4 dia with 1 and 1/2 length straight bit for $12. That will give you a good start and give a hole to guide the drill bit the rest of the way.

[Art Mann]

My opinion is a router is not an appropriate tool to drill holes. Even a spiral upcut bit will probably burn and smoke. What is wrong with just using a drill bit? A forstner bit would do a nice job but you will need a stout drill and a lot of downward pressure. A regular twist bit will do a good job if you are careful. Even a spade bit will do a good job if you drill a pilot hole first and then drill from both sides sothat the bottom of the hole doesn't blow out.

[keith ouellette]

I meant mlcs. they have worked good for me so far.

[Jamie Buxton]

I like your plan of using a plunge router. It ensures that the bored holes are exactly vertical.

I'd use a template guide in the router, and a shopmade template. The shopmade template is just a piece of sheet goods with the correct size of hole bored through it. The correct size is determined by the diameter of your router bit and the diameter of the template guide. The diameter of the router bit can be whatever you have on hand -- 1/2", 3/8", or the like. If you want to get slick, you can add a strip of wood to the bottom of the template. The strip hangs over the edge of your workbench, so it ensures that all the holes the same distance from the edge.

Straight bits called plunge bits have a cutting edge on the front of the bit, so it cuts while it is plunging. Non-plunge bits don't have that edge, and so don't plunge well. However, you can use a non-plunge bit for this job. Drill a hole that's maybe 3/8 diameter in the middle of your eventual dog hole. It doesn't matter whether this hole is vertical or centered or anything. It just clears out some waste in the middle of the dog hole so that the non-plunge bit doesn't have to cut on the end of the bit.

[Gary Keedwell]

I did mine with a carbide drill bit, but the next time I'm going to use a plunge router using a center cut bit. (plunge bit). Simple fixture to get your X and Y hole locations.
Gary

[David Weaver]

Why not just a regular straight bit? Wouldn't evacuate the chips and cut as aggressively as a spiral upcut bit, but a whiteside bit is $15.

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=2

[Gary Keedwell]

Why not just a regular straight bit? Wouldn't evacuate the chips and cut as aggressively as a spiral upcut bit, but a whiteside bit is $15.

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=2

Not all bits have plunge capabilities. You need a center cut bit unless you have an existing hole already there.
Gary

[Joel Goodman]

How about using a drill to cut the center 1/2 inch and the clean up with a router -- less stress and you still get the perfect plunge router cut?

[David Weaver]

Good point. I never thought about it, but have never plunge cut with anything other than a 3/8th bit for mortises, so I guess that's a lesson I'd have learned after buying another brand of bit than what I'm using.

I used to plunge cut only with spiral bits until I was cutting in a door a couple of months ago and the router launched itself out of the door on a bounce, even with an upcut bit. Not sure what happened, but I must not have had it flush with the door.

[Gary Keedwell]

How about using a drill to cut the center 1/2 inch and the clean up with a router -- less stress and you still get the perfect plunge router cut?

That will work
Gary

[Steve Sawyer]

I too am nearing completion on my workbench, and will be using a 3/4" auger bit and a hand brace. This particular task will push the outside of the envelope for any other tool I can think of. IMO a hand brace and 3/4" auger bit is the perfect tool for this particular job. The holes are large and deep (my top is about 2" thick hard maple). and will stress or burn a router, electric drill, or forstner bit.

Your concern seems to be getting the holes vertical. Getting (and keeping) an auger bit vertical is pretty easy, but being the belt-and-suspenders type, I'll be using a simple jig (a pair of short boards glued or screwed into a "v" shape) to help keep the bit straight.

[Gary Keedwell]

I too am nearing completion on my workbench, and will be using a 3/4" auger bit and a hand brace. This particular task will push the outside of the envelope for any other tool I can think of. IMO a hand brace and 3/4" auger bit is the perfect tool for this particular job. The holes are large and deep (my top is about 2" thick hard maple). and will stress or burn a router, electric drill, or forstner bit.

Your concern seems to be getting the holes vertical. Getting (and keeping) an auger bit vertical is pretty easy, but being the belt-and-suspenders type, I'll be using a simple jig (a pair of short boards glued or screwed into a "v" shape) to help keep the bit straight.

It very well could burn out an inferior made bit but if you use a quality HSS bit, you should be fine.
Gary

[Mike Henderson]

There's a fairly easy way to drill a vertical hole in a bench. Get or make up a piece of 8/4 stock. Square it. Draw two lines perpendicular, with one line along the grain and one across the grain. Use a square and take the lines down the side of the piece of wood.

Now, using your drill press, drill a hole of the proper size centered where the lines meet.

Lay out the holes on your bench with perpendicular lines with the crossing point where you want the hole. Now, put your jig wood (that 8/4 piece) on the bench and align the lines. Clamp the jig to your bench. Use a portable drill, a standard twist bit, and drill as far as your bit will allow. Remove the jig and complete the hole if your drill bit is too short to go all the way through with the jig in place.

Mike