Tool recommendations for a beginner

[Al Willits]

I've had both the Dewalt and Yorkcraft side by side and construction wise it is twice the planer as the Dewalt.
That's not saying that I mean the Dewalt isn't any good, just not the
planer that the yorkcraft, or any of the bigger units are.

How much you want to spend and how much your gonna plane will make a difference on what will work for you, same as the rest of the tools suggested.

Please, I'm all for not spending any more than you have to, but when someone says they're gonna make it a life long interest I think I would up a notch over the basic lower end products, you notice I didn't say festool or sawstop, I still think this stuff is for those with a big check book or pros...
That'll get a response I bet...

If it works for you, great!

Same for the 14" band saw, mine does a lot reasonably well, but I see me doing a lot of re sawing and veneering and it just ain't enough, if you leave the re sawing out, it'd be a nice saw.

I just find its a bit easier to deal with to much machine than to little.
What I have suggested is what I would like or have, and what works for others is gonna probably/more than likely be different than what I have.

Different strokes.

Blame the weather Chuck, bet its cold there too?

Al

[David Weaver]

Not sure how the Yorkcraft would be twice the planer. As we know, there is always bigger better. But my DeWalt 735 is a great planer for even a serious hobbyist. I got mine off craigslist for $275...barely used. I will make a built in planing station.

What makes answering this question difficult is no known budget, shop size, etc. I would also say that a 16" bandsaw is a little over the top. I went with the Jet 12"...got it also barely used from a closet company for $200. I would prefer a 14" w/ riser, but this will handle most anything I will need it for. I put more budget into a larger jointer (used DJ-20) and cabinet table saw. And dust collection as mentioned.

The bandsaw issue depends on whether or not you're going to do resawing. I've spent a lot of time trying to get around resawing and buying thin stock or letting a buddy of mine who doesn't mind it resaw thinner pieces on a table saw. Some of you guys don't mind it, but I do - that's for sure. Or, not to mention, planing most of a good board away to get a thinner piece to glue to a ply substrate.

I ran across a 1.75hp 18 inch jet bandsaw - new- for $1050 about a month ago, and I wouldn't give it back no matter what now. Even just if you're cutting thick stock.

I wouldn't buy a 14 inch or smaller saw now unless it was used and cheap - I hope that doesn't offend anyone - it's just the experience of using a bigger saw. It's nice to have a bigger table, a foot of resaw, and big wheels and big guides to do the resawing (and the 400+ pounds of weight to keep the saw in one place). Another 100 bucks, and you can have the 3hp version if you think that 1.75hp isn't enough (it turns out, it is enough for my use).

I can flatten large boards by hand, or use a planer sled if the boards don't fit on my 6" jointer, but resawing a board to make an 8-10" tall drawer side for a bottom drawer is a lot harder. Make that a 12" jointer, and then it becomes a little harder of a decision because you can constantly run into rough stock that is in the 8,9 10" range and doesn't fit on an 8, but a 12" jointer is off the charts in price compared to the 6 and 8.

And don't forget cutting curves in thick stock - it's nice to have a bigger saw with stout guides to do that.

All this talk from everyone here should be an indication that you'll not get to a point where you say "I have enough tools now".

[Jason Yeager]

Thanks everyone for your input! What do you think about that Jessem router table(Mastrlift excel with stand and mitrslide for $800)? I know its more tool than I know what to do with, but at cost seems like a pretty amazing deal to pass up.

[Dave MacArthur]

Jason,
I would get out to a bookstore and buy the current Fine WoodWorking "Tools and Shops 2007" issue!! In it, there is an article on "How to set up a new woodshop with tools for < $1000 with new and quality used tools". Last year the 2006 issue had an article on setting up shop for $5000, and this one is a complementary one on doing it by looking for the good deals, and starting with just the ESSENTIALS, then building up as you do work and see what you like and need.

Can I suggest you open your profile up, and edit it (way at the bottom I think) to show your location? Many folks, including me, would read this thread, and do various online searches at places we know for good deals on tools... I actually enjoy browsing craigs list and hoping I'll be able to help someone out many states away

Lastly, I would NOT personally get the router table. A router table is something you can make yourself very easily, and a straight board virtually does as well for most routing as an uber-fence. I've built a router table, then later built one into my table saw extension, and done tons of frame/panel type stuff with no problems and thoroughly enjoyed using my setup--all for < $100. Then about 6 months ago, I went to a guys house in response to a bandsaw on craigs list, and ended up picking up the Rockler router table with cabinet, with rockler lift, fence, and dovetail jig ALL for $100. Basically I'm saying that $800 for a router table is much more than you HAVE to pay for a good setup. I might pay that much, but only after I was sure what I needed/wanted. And truthfully, router lifts are just not required gear--nice to have if you've got the $ to toss down, but easily done without. I'd save the $ and look a bit--Rockler is selling a whole setup for xmas for about $400.

Welcome, and good luck! Read that article, it's just perfect for your question

[Mike Heidrick]

I would try and build a router table first and decide what you like and dislike about it. Then upgrade latter on if you decide you need to. Look for a NYW or Kreg Jig router table plan. You can fine tune your fence design or decide and buy the Incra or Jessem latter.

Choose a Dewalt 618 2 base or 3 base setup. Great smooth operating routers. Then you can dedicate one base to your router table and still have a plunge base and maybe a trigger fixed base to use. Check with Mark at Heavy duty tools dot net and see if he can set you up with a great deal. That or try the new dual base setup from Milwaukee.

Also do not forget some good router bits. Holbren dot com sells Whiteside and they are great. Also teh $5 Woodcraft bits are great to use as well.

The Dewalt 735 would be the lunch box of choice if buying new. I own the 734 and it is great. I wanted a larger one and went to 20" because of the deal I found but I am keeping my lunch box as well. I think that is the perfect developed solution if you have space and you decide to upgrade.

Another option is to get the 12" planer jointer from Grizzly. I think that is a SWEET setup for the price and two machines in one spot in the shop.

Look for some good used equipment. Lots of it out there if you are patient.

Look for a unisaw or pm66 or any good cabinet saw after you buy some of teh other tools.

Also do not forget a good square and some chisels or maybe other handtools.

Build the collection up slowly as the deals present themselves.

[Richard Dragin]

Decide on a project and that will dictate what tools you need to buy first. You will also need to decide if you want to buy rough lumber or surfaced, if you go with rough you will need a planer, jointer or both.

I think a table saw and router are pretty much automatic for anyone who plans on using power tools. If you want to go the hand tool route a bench, saws, hand planes and chisels will be your starting purchases.

I think one of the best ways to learn is to build from plans. Look online or at a local woodworking store. Many plans will have a list of tools recomended so that will guide you as to what you will need.

[Tom Maple]

Quote: "Ya didn't say where your from, but I'll assume ya don't have a neighbor you can borrow the use of some of the bigger power tools like joiner or planer, so I'd say get a 3hp TS, 8" joiner, 15" planer and a 16" or larger bandsaw..."

I agree with Al's statement, above. One advantage you have over many hobbiests is that as a general contractor you can expense the equipment through your business. This can help the decision of "should I spend that much or not?" Buying a bigger or better tool than you now need is cheaper than buying a smaller tool and then having to replace it later on.

[Jason Yeager]

Thanks again, everyone has been really helpful. I have seen some of the table saws that incorporate a router table on an extension wing that seem really nice. Why would you buy a dedicated router table if you can do both with one set up?

[Dave MacArthur]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71088

good thread from today showing how many folks here built router tables, or at least the working part--the top!

[Jude Herr]

If you have a small shop and don't have a Jointer or a Planer yet, the JET 708475 Jointer/Planer Combo table would be a good investment. It is a Euro-styled table is that it is both a 12" Jointer and a 12" Planer in one table. For $1700, it's a great deal.

[Gary Muto]

You have a very nice sister.

[Josiah Bartlett]

The biggest recommendation I have is that if you can find (and/or move) old iron that is in servicable condition, buy it. If you buy a big old beast of a table saw or jointer or bandsaw that you find you don't like or never use, you can sell it for the same or more than what you paid. The heavier it is the better. It will provide vibration free cuts, which go a long way to reduce frustration. Barring that, buy the biggest/heaviest you can afford. Buy the best saw blades you can. If you can't afford a jointer, buy an old Bailey #6 jointer plane and a good vise and learn to use that. Thickness planers are good but you can get by without them as long as you plan ahead to use standard thickness lumber (and sand a little more).

Resist the temptation to buy more tools, and buy the best you can to get by with what you want to make. Early in my hobby I couldn't afford lots of good tools so I bought lots of cheap tools. That was a mistake. I should have bought a few good tools and learned how to use them well. There are many ways to make strong, accurate joints. Some of them are just more labor intensive than others.