Basic tablesaw use tips?

[Sean Havins]

Hi Folks,

I am the proud owner of a new Jet JPS-10TS table saw. I have never used a table saw before and need some safety pointers before I start the big project this weekend.

• I did some test cuts on some small pieces while I was checking the setup and could not come up with a comfortable way of clearing the small piece of wood that is held next to the spinning blade by the blade guard after I made my cut. Do I just flick it with a pusher stick?

• I need to rip a truck load of plywood flooring and thinner ceiling panels from 8 X 4 to 8 X 2. I have two support stands with ball bearings on top to take the cut sheets. What is the best position to hold the 8 X 4 sheet of plywood to feed it in to the table saw? Should I hold the rear corner farthest from the fence so I’m not standing directly in front of the blade and can push the panel against the fence as I feed it in?

• Does anyone knows of a good source of this type of info that I can lay my eyes on quickly? Or Can i just keep the questions coming here as they occur to me?

Thanks for your time.


Sean

[Chuck Lenz]

Sean, maybe this link will answer your questions, there are two pages. http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=317 I'm sure your allways welcome back if you have more questions.

[Al Willits]

I shut the saw off if in doubt, I've launched enough wood alreay that its much easier to stop the saw than take a chance, as your skills increase you may find ways to remove them small scraps from next to the blade, but either way be careful.

I give up trying to cut large sheets of plywood on a table saw, to easy to feed incorrectly and with out a riving knife/splitter I find I can launch even more wood at a very high rate of speed.

I picked up the EZ Smart system or ya can use a straight edge and a circular saw to cut down to a manageable size.

Al...who has a better lauch record than NASA

[James Hart]

Sean,

As the proud new owner of a big saw, you probably don't want to hear this.
I think if I were you, I'd use a straightedge, a circular saw and a big sheet of foam insulation. .
I have significant infeed and out feed support ( a 3' X 5' table infeed and 4' X 3' rollers out), board buddies on the fence and 26 years experience on and off pushing wood through a saw.
My first choice would be to ask the supplier to rip it on a panel saw.
Second choice, and this wouldn't be the case without all the support stuff, would be to rip it myself.
Third would be a circular saw.
This strikes me as a really poor project to learn how to use a bigger saw.

Jim

[Ted Jay]

Hi Folks,

I am the proud owner of a new Jet JPS-10TS table saw. I have never used a table saw before and need some safety pointers before I start the big project this weekend.

• I need to rip a truck load of plywood flooring and thinner ceiling panels from 8 X 4 to 8 X 2. I have two support stands with ball bearings on top to take the cut sheets. What is the best position to hold the 8 X 4 sheet of plywood to feed it in to the table saw? Should I hold the rear corner farthest from the fence so I’m not standing directly in front of the blade and can push the panel against the fence as I feed it in?

Sean

SOunds like a good excuse to buy a panel saw... as if an excuse is needed!!!

[George Bregar]

Doesn't sound like you will have any small pieces if you will just be ripping sheets in half, but I would suggest just turning off the saw and then removing small cut-offs near the blade when it comes to a complete stop. Getting that stick or cut-off into the blade can send them flying. Not good.

As far as ripping plywood, your technique sounds about right, until you get near the end. At that point continue to push the one piece to the fence side into the fence but not the off side. I would only to this if you have an extension table to support the sheet on the rear of the saw...sounds like you do.

Here is a good link with specifics http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Arti...w/tablesaw.htm

Good side up on the table saw.

Edit: I see you have a "truck load." I would also have the supplier cut it.

[Bas Pluim]

I bought the exact same saw, and as great as it is, I would not rip full sheets of plywood on it. At least not by myself, rollers or not. A circular saw and a straightedge are much safer. With a large outfeed table, and a secondary table/ bench for horizontal support...maybe.

As far cutting small pieces (or anything for that matter), do a google search on "Niki good day table saw". That should give you all the info you need.

Bas.

[Brian Kent]

Sean,

As the proud new owner of a big saw, you probably don't want to hear this.
I think if I were you, I'd use a straightedge, a circular saw and a big sheet of foam insulation.

Jim

What is the big sheet of foam insulation for? Is that the support for the plywood that a circular saw would cut part way through?

[Al Willits]

Yes, (I think) you set the saw up so it just cuts the plywood and you'll just go into the foam maybe a 1/4" or so.
I've used 2x2's" the same way, but you set them to support the plywood but out of the way of the blade.

Al

[James Hart]

What is the big sheet of foam insulation for? Is that the support for the plywood that a circular saw would cut part way through?

Yes. I lay a full sheet, at least 2" thick, on the garage floor. Clamp on the straightedge, set the circular saw to cut through the plywood about 3/4" then cut.

There's a video of this on Woodsmith's site, www.woodworkingonline.com, it's the video with their top 10 favorite tips of all time.

JIm

[Allen Bookout]

This is the best video that I have seen regarding the information that you are seeking: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16790

I have the video and it is well worth the small cost.

[Allen Bookout]

I have both a cabinetsaw and the EZ. I see no problem with using the cabinetsaw for cutting up full sheets of plywood. Some people get tunnel vision regarding such things. If you do not like the way the operation goes using the cabinetsaw THEN find another way to do it.

[Thom Sturgill]

I also have the same saw.
Get some help if you don't have more support for large sheets and make it a priority to make a large enough outfeed table to support the weight and length of the material. Mine gives me an almost 4ft past the rear fence rail and I would still hesitate to push a 3/4" sheet of ply through (though I have done it)

As to the small pieces - turn the saw off and wait for the blade to stop, THEN use that push stick. Also make a zero clearance throat plate. Due to the size, the pre-made ones available at Rockler and Woodcraft will not work. Rockler's phenolic blanks are even too short. I found longer blanks at McFeeleys.

[Ben Grunow]

I like an outfeed table as the stands can fall over with cupped sheet s of ply.

At the very least wax the TS top so they slide easily (johnson's paste wax) and to prevent rust.

I have a festool saw and prefer the TS. More work to handle the sheets, but simpler to me.

Ben

[Lee Schierer]

With regard to your first question. The best way to remove the small scrap pieces next to the blade is to turn off the saw, wait for the blade to stop and then move tehm. Anything else is less safe and could result in an accident. The saw is dumb, it can't tell your fingers from the wood so don't give it the chance.

On your second question, ripping p[lywood. If your fence moves far enough for the cuts you need then the able saw will work. Roller stands will help, but are still likely to tip at the wrong time. Your best and safest way is to get a helper. Two people on a full sheet of plywood works best.