Kitchen Table Top Finish

[Don Abele]

This weekends project is to replace our kitchen table top. It's going to be a field of maple wrapped in walnut. I posted a question on the design forum concerning the breadboard edges: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...?threadid=7113 but thought of another question probably best asked here.

What's your recommendation for a finish? This is a VERY HARD used table (2 small kids) and I'd like a durable finish. I don't think it needs to be food safe, we don't eat off the table (well, at least we don't if we have guests over). I was thinking some sort of oil (tung/danish/BLO) followed by poly or shellac (blonde). Whadaya think?

Thanks,

[Mark Singer]

Don ,
Oil is fine ...wait at least 72 hours and then Polyurethane....Satin

Wait 3 days and rub with 0000 steel wool and paste wax!

[Todd Burch]

I'll ditto Mark, but I like 3 coats of 3-hour dry poly, and I 220 sand after the first 2 coats. A disposable foam brush works fine - I would use a 3" or 4" brush for a tabletop.

[Roger Barga]

Hi Don,

imho shellac is too soft for a topcoat, not to mention it provides little to no protection against a liquids (especially alchohol) so I'd advise against using it as your topcoat. I've used a wipe on poly from Rockler, which is oil-based, as a top coat over danish oil on a table that gets quite a bit of use. Two thumbs up on this finish for protection. Our kitchen table which is used every day is finished using several coats of Tried and True varnish/oil and it has held up very well. Any stains or water marks can be easily buffed out with oil and steelwool. Moreover, it has a natural look and feel, and has held up well to liquids/spills. We regularly apply a coat of wax as an extra protection barrier, but that's about it.

That my 0.02 worth.

Cheers, Roger

This weekends project is to replace our kitchen table top. It's going to be a field of maple wrapped in walnut. I posted a question on the design forum concerning the breadboard edges: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...?threadid=7113 but thought of another question probably best asked here.

What's your recommendation for a finish? This is a VERY HARD used table (2 small kids) and I'd like a durable finish. I don't think it needs to be food safe, we don't eat off the table (well, at least we don't if we have guests over). I was thinking some sort of oil (tung/danish/BLO) followed by poly or shellac (blonde). Whadaya think?

Thanks,

[Mark Singer]

I have Tried and True on my dining table and it holds up pretty good. From an oblique angle you can see glass ring marks which disipate over time and new ones appear....The hand rubbed finish is nicer to the touch but it does not have the bullet proof protection of a Polyurethane.

[Kent Cori]

I'm with Todd on the poly although I prefer wipe on because I can never seem to get a good job with a brush. Of course, this approach will take more coats as it builds slower.

However, the best approach with two kids would be 1/2" armor steel plating.

[Dennis Peacock]

Mornin' Doc,

I just did this not too many months back. I used a 50/50 mix of varnish/poly thinned by 20% with MS or Naptha and applied 5 coats. Let cure for 4 weeks, rub with 0000 steel wool and Johnsons Paste Wax, let dry to a haze and buff....and then ENJOY.....

I have 4 kids and we homeschool as well so the table is use as much as 16 hours a day, 6 days a week. So far so good. Just rewax and buff every once in a while and she's still purdy..!!!!

[Jason Roehl]

Not my own experience here, but just a slightly different thought. My BIL refinished their kitchen table (they have a 3 year old), and he just used one of the drying oils, like danish or tung oil. His thinking was that none of the finishes are indestructible, so he may as well use something that is easily touched up. To date, the table looks great. It has held up very well, with no obvious wear, tear and scratches like a poly'ed table would be showing by now.

[Don Abele]

Jason, that is my fear. I have a coffee table I made about 8 years ago and used A LOT of coats of poly on top of it. There are a lot of marks under the poly from dings/dents and I've sanded a lot of scratches out of it. In hind sight, I put too much on with such a soft wood (pine). One reason why I am using maple and walnut is their strength. Just wanted a finish that would be as strong.

Thanks all for the suggestions. I guess I'm still looking at a coat or two of oil (I have both tung and danish - any advantage to either), let dry 72 hours, and then 3-5 coats of poly. Then give it a couple of weeks before final sanding, paste wax, and use.

Thanks again,

[Jerry Ingraham]

Jason,
I recently replaced our dining room table top and since my wife and daughters often take a pan directly from the stove top to the table with no trivet underneath, I decided to try spar urethane. It has been two years now and not a mark on it. I recommend the spar products for any high use or liquid spill prone surface.

Jerry

[Paul Downes]

Don, I gave up! 9 kids between 9 mos. and 16 yrs. I have yet to find a finish that will stand up. ( caught one boy testing out a hand saw on a living room chair) However, in theory, some of the before mentioned finishes sound like they would look real nice. I would like to venture an additional 'top coat'. Try 1/4" stainless steel plate with perhaps a felt underlayment to protect that beautiful wood. You can picture it in your minds eye and when the kids are finaly out the door ta da! you can remove the plate!

[Steve Costain]

i would reccomend a catalyzed varnish (sprayed) toughest finish i have ever used. goes down fast, you can put on 3-4 coats in a afternoon. good luck, Steve

[Carl Eyman]

This is not easy, but it is good. Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish is just that - rock hard. I did two end tables with it four ior more years ago and no scratches. Granted end tables are not a good test, but that doesn't alter the fact this stuff's hard. I rubbed tham down with pumice and rottenstone = that's how I know it's hard. But is you want a rubbed finish = abd this one is beautiful - it may be too ambitious to tackle a dining table. However with the accesories available for you ROS these days maybe it is possible.