cutting out sanding disks

[jeff ferguson]

I have finally used up the last of my hook and loop sanding disks that I had purchased back when I lived close enough to attend a turning club (and participate in the group buys). I am way too cheap to pay the 30-50 cents per disk purchasing by myself. I have ordered the large sheets of hook and loop paper (about 10 cents/disk), but would like some advice on how to cut out the 3" disks. I have a couple ideas, but would like to hear how others do it.
Thanks,
Jeff

[Jim Becker]

Make a punch out of steel pipe...

[jeff ferguson]

The steel pipe was my first idea, I have just had some trouble finding the pipe. I though I would see if there are other easy options.
Thanks
Jeff

[Dennis Peacock]

Yes, another option is a holesaw minus the teeth (but sharpened to a smooth cutting edge with a file) and center drill bit. Place it in your drill press, put the sandpaper on top of a wood block, turn on the DP, and start cutting out our sandpaper. The metal pipe method works good and Mark Cothren showed me that one.

[John Hart]

Brace yourself for this one.

I stick the large sheet of H&L to my 2" diameter pad, then I cut around the pad with tin snips and toss the remainder up on the bench somewhere, where it eventually gets covered in shavings, snarling the H&L, so I have to dig out the chips each time. This is a high precision process.

(I use tin snips because I don't want to ruin my scissors that are buried in the shavings somewhere)

[steven carter]

Jeff,

Where did you find the h&l sheets?

steve

[Terry Quiram]

Jeff

You don't need to go to all the trouble of cutting round discs. I cut my paper into 2" and 3" squares. You can fold the corners over the pad. The paper will not scratch the wood from the edge of the paper. I have a 2" and 3" strip of metal banding that I use as a straight edge. Cut with a utility knife.

Terry

[Raymond Overman]

Guess what? A 3x3 square will work on the three inch round sanding pad. I use a 2" pad and cut my sheets with a straight edge then cut the strips so I get 2" squares. Works like a charm.

Jeff,

Where did you find the h&l sheets?

steve

Industrial Abrasives

[Brian Brown]

I bought a 2" circle punch from a scrapbooking store. Just slip the H & L sanding sheets in, whack the handle an voila! a two inch disc. The punch was not designed for this, so I don't know how long it will last, but it works good for now. The instructions say to punch aluminum foil or sandpaper to sharpen it, so who knows? It's a little rough for 100 grit, but works well on higher grits. I buy 6" H & L discs for a random orbit sander at the orange box store, and get 7 2" discs per sheet. This is $.06/ disc. A far cry from $.50 each. The punch cost $11.00.

I have never heard of the pipe method, but would like to know how to make one. The punch I have probably won't last forever.

Brian

[Reed Gray]

The pipe method: Get a section of 3 inch ID (inside diameter) pipe about 1 1/2 inch long. I had it reamed out on the inside so the actual disc comes out about 3 1/8 diameter. Put a fairly sharp long bevel (45 degrees or sharper) on the outside, and a tiny bevel also on the inside. If you leave the inside straight, it will tend to crimp over with use. Also have the pipe heat treated to make it a bit harder. I have access to a small table top punch press which you may find in a leather processing place (Clicker press), but you can use a bigger arbor press (in the 3 to 5 ton range), or a 6 to 8 pound hammer with a wood block on top of the cutter (you can turn a fancy end grain one if you want), and punch. With the hammer, I can do 3 to 5 layers without any trouble, but I used a 10 lb hammer for years doing concrete work. Do make sure that the table you are pounding on is very sturdy, like punch right on top of a leg, rather than in the middle of the table. Also, I use some 1/2 inch thick plastic to cut out on.

robo hippy

[Tim Gruss]

Here is what I do. I use standard mirka paper and spray it with adhesive. My sanding pads are the wifes recycled Flip-Flops Glued to 1/2 plywood that has a 1/4 tee track bolt glued in it.I also put a 1/4" nut on the top of the plywood. They work great and I have many different sizes, cost is the tee-trac bolt.

[Pat Doble]

I go the same route as Terry and Raymond. Just cut into squares with straightedge and utility knife...

[Dick Strauss]

Jeff,
I got one of the $2-3 holesaw kits from HF and made a 3" and 3.5" punch as Dennis mentioned (3" for my 2" and 3.5" for my 3" sanding pad). I ground mine on my 36 grit wheel to make a nice steep 60 degree cutter. I use a dead blow hammer against an end grain log and punch 5-10 discs at a time by folding the sandpaper accordian style before punching them.


FYI-Holesaws have the advantage of a nice flat surface for hammer strikes and easy mounting in a drill press if needed.

Good luck,
Dick

[Ed Scolforo]

You guys are wasting way too much time . I use a cheap pair of trauma scissors and cut around a disc used as a template sitting on top of the sheet. It's quick enough for me.

[Reed Gray]

Just as an after thought, I don't punch many discs out any more. I started using the blue discs from Vince, and can't get sheet stock from him, at least not yet. The prices are fair enough, and I haven't found a better of comparable abrasive yet.
robo hippy