Tablesaw Moving + Rain = OMG

[Chris Foley]

Okay guys...the rain caught me. No matter how much tarping I did, my new Unisaw top is soaking wet. What now? There is a Woodcraft right down the street. Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!

[alex grams]

If you are concerned with the top metal getting wet, maybe just as a quick fix, get some motor oil on a rag and rub the top down(the heavier the oil the better).

Of course you will have to clean it off later, but better messy than rusty. But in all likelyhood, getting wet for a day shouldn't do any major damage, as long as you clean it up asap (someone please correct me if i am wrong).

I am not sure of the motor arrangement, but maybe just wrap it with a wal mart or trash bag to keep it dry.

[Brian Weick]

I would dry it off wright away ,obviously and wipe some mineral spirits on her as soon as possible with fine steel wool as the applicator ~then wipe clean~ when you get her in her new home- coat it with some Johnson's paste wax ,but first use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up before you apply it- then hand buff - that helps keeps moisture off the metal - I use that on my Oliver - there is not one spot of rust on her - I'd freak out if there was-
Brian

[Allen Bookout]

After I got the top cleaned and dried off I would put Boeshield T9 on the top before I waxed it. The T9 is easy to find. Home Depot, hardware stores, West Marine and maybe Woodcraft since that is close. Woodcraft might also have CorrosionX which is reported to be equal to or better than T9. I live right on the saltwater and T9 does a good job for me.

A little T9 goes a long way. I spray it very lightly but completely, let it set a few minutes and gently wipe off any excess before I apply Johnson's Paste Wax.

[Mike Marcade]

I would wipe down the top and the immediately spray WD-40 on it. It will displace the water. Then as soon as you can get some T9 and treat it with that for a more permanent solution.

[glenn bradley]

Its been a couple hours so I assume you've taken care of this already but, if you use WD-40 to displace the water be sure to get it all wiped off. It turns to goo after several months if left alone. Then pick your treatment and follow up with paste wax. I wax everything about once a month. I'm going to pick up some T-9 or the like because occasionally I will spot a shadow here or there; no color, just a warning. It hasn't ever turned onto a problem because I try to do regular maintenance. Perhaps a treatment will stop even this small area of concern.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

KEROSENE or WD40.
Either will exclude the water.

[Tom Godley]

With a boat things often get wet or have to be rinsed off. I find that a small fan forced heater works great. It will slowly warm the surface up using dry air - you can just move the heater around the object. Even placing it inside some equipment (On Low) works well. I would spray with care - some of those products can make a real mess. I sometimes also use a hair dryer to force water out of tight places -- this needs to be done on low or no heat -- they can get quite hot.

I have had good luck -- even with some electronic gear -- just do not try to turn it on until it is dry.

[Bill Wyko]

Someone a while back had posted about a belt like a scotch pad they had used to make a table look like new. It seemed to work great. I want to say around 2 or 3 weeks ago.

[Al Willits]

Tranny fluid and wd-40 works well, the tranny fluid stays and protects the metal the wd-40 fights and loosens any rust.

WD-40 alone will not keep it protected long, found out the hard way on a vertical mill table.

Al

[Chris Barnett]

What he said....put a small forced air (fan) heater, set on low, (or even just a fan which is safer considering possible damage from heat) inside cabinet. Will dry the crevices and internals that you cannot reach with towels etc. Treat bare metal quickly after drying. Monitor to keep from getting too hot and possibly warping table, and leave door open to permit moisture to easily leave. Electric light will also work instead of heater also but is much slower.

[Bill Bryant]

CorrosionX

[mike wacker]

Had to move a PM66 in the Slush/rain/snow /salt cover roads two weeks ago. HAD to be done right then. No tarp, no plastic. Sprayed the top with Zep 45, a heavy penatrating oil product. Got it to it's new home and literally gave it a shower with a hose and garden sprayer to get the salt spay off. Hosed out the inside of the cabinet and out.

Then, used WD40 every where I could inside and used break cleaner to disolve the Zep 45 from the top. Wiped it dry and in the morning put the Top Saver to it. All seems to be fine. YMMV.

[Bruce Page]

I would wipe down the top and the immediately spray WD-40 on it. It will displace the water. Then as soon as you can get some T9 and treat it with that for a more permanent solution.

I agree. Dry it and wipe it down with WD-40.

[Ed Brady]

Remember, WD (in WD40) stands for water displacing. It is just so so at lubricating, but it will drive the water out of crevices until you can get something longer lasting on it.

Good luck!

EDB