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Thread: Question about award plaque

  1. #1

    Talking Question about award plaque

    Hi everyone,

    I'm making my 1st award plaque. (9x12) I was wondering if anyone had any advise on how to properly align the plate to the plaque so that it is square and aligned properly. The tape doesn't appear to be very forgiving once it's down.

    Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Ron

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    7,630
    There are probably many ways that different people use. You can place it down with the adhesive liner still on, measure carefully, mark the top edge with masking tape, mark the left and right edges with a pen on the masking tape, then peel the back and use the masking tape as a guide.

    I also may do it as I do vinyl, measure to get it in the right position, then hinge the top with masking tape. Flip it up, peel the backing, flip down.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

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  3. #3
    Ron,

    Precise and slow movements - I hold the sides by fingertips of of one finger on each side and finesse it into place. The first 40 - you'll replace a couple... After you waste a few - you'll do okay - but still waste one every now and then.

    Your key might be to practice with masking or scotch tape and place a few to get the hang of it (practice plate and plaque). More forgiving - will allow you to step back and look at it, peel it and do it again. Once you start seeing whether you are 'lean to the right' or a 'lean to the left' guy, correct your stance, hold your mouth just right, close your eyes (maybe skip this step) and jam it on there...

    Oh - BTW - even after you have stuck 100 or so and you're pretty good at it, when the customer stands and watches - Murphys is watching too!
    Steve Beckham

    Epilog Mini 24 with 45 Watt, Ricoh GX 7000 Sublimation, Corel X3, Corel X4 and PhotoGrav, Recently replaced the two 'used' SWF machines with brand new Barudans.

  4. #4
    I made a little template. Take a piece of clear acrylic, cut out the shape of the piece to put on, and then oversize on the overall. Make a couple of pieces to come down and hit the edge and you're set. Slide the template on top of the wood piece, bump it against the edges, and then drop the engraved part through the hole you cut and it'll be perfect every time.
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    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  5. #5
    I used to use templates and I quit several years ago. A standard plaque has a plate 1" smaller than the plaque on all sides. A 9x12 plaque would have a 7x10 plate. I align the top at one inch (eyeball measurement) center it and drop it. I like it much better than templates. If you do make a mistake you'll see it before you press it down and you can remove the plate with fishing line without scratching anything.

    If the plate is a different size I measure down from the top, use a piece of tape to mark it and go from there.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

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  6. #6

    Thank VERY much!!

    THANK YOU! The plaques came out excellent thanks to everyone on this forum. I would post a picture but I delivered it and then thought..Take a picture...Always learning always learning

    Thank You
    Ron

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    I made a little template. Take a piece of clear acrylic, cut out the shape of the piece to put on, and then oversize on the overall. Make a couple of pieces to come down and hit the edge and you're set. Slide the template on top of the wood piece, bump it against the edges, and then drop the engraved part through the hole you cut and it'll be perfect every time.
    I dont get it! could you repeat it again, just slower, and use more words?
    Mr C.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    I use three small clamps. One at the top and one each at the left and right edges. A bit of measuring to get the proper standoff dimension is required to set the clamps but once they are set I insert the plaque plate nudging the top clamp and set it down slowly between the two side clamps. If I have several plaques that are identical I make a template and cut it in half.

    .

  9. #9
    that is ingenious! Are they C clamps?
    Mr C.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Shelbyville, Tn
    Posts
    1,257
    I do something very similar to Scott.
    I have a piece of plywood with 2 pieces of wood glued and nailed to them at a right angle in the upper left corner. They are raised enough so that when I place it in the laser it 0,0's on the corner of the plywood. This allows for odd shaped sides on plaque or other materials to stop at the 0,0 point on the fixture that matches the 0,0 point of the laser (clear as mud). I also use this fixture for centering brass. I make a new fixture from plastic on the laser. If for example I have a 8 x 10 plaque, I make a fixture roughly that size. Make my corel page exactly 8 x 10 and then a hairline box the size of the brass. I center the box, put a 0,0 on the fixture in the upper left corner and cut it out. Now I place the plaque on the plywood fixture, place the plaque in the 0,0 corner, place the plastic fixture in the 0,0 corner and then I can set my brass perfect.
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
    Epilog Mini
    Rabbit 1290

  11. #11
    clear as mud. do you have a picture?
    Mr C.

  12. #12

    Wow my head hurts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Robison View Post
    I do something very similar to Scott.
    I have a piece of plywood with 2 pieces of wood glued and nailed to them at a right angle in the upper left corner. They are raised enough so that when I place it in the laser it 0,0's on the corner of the plywood. This allows for odd shaped sides on plaque or other materials to stop at the 0,0 point on the fixture that matches the 0,0 point of the laser (clear as mud). I also use this fixture for centering brass. I make a new fixture from plastic on the laser. If for example I have a 8 x 10 plaque, I make a fixture roughly that size. Make my corel page exactly 8 x 10 and then a hairline box the size of the brass. I center the box, put a 0,0 on the fixture in the upper left corner and cut it out. Now I place the plaque on the plywood fixture, place the plaque in the 0,0 corner, place the plastic fixture in the 0,0 corner and then I can set my brass perfect.
    Could you explain that in English please???
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
    Posts
    443

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Beckham View Post
    Ron,

    Precise and slow movements - I hold the sides by fingertips of of one finger on each side and finesse it into place. The first 40 - you'll replace a couple... After you waste a few - you'll do okay - but still waste one every now and then.
    Steve has it right. It's all in the fingertips. After the first 10,000 plaques, you'll be doing it in your sleep!
    ULS X-2 660, Corel X3, Haas VF4, Graphtec vinyl cutter, Xenetech rotaries (3), Dahlgren Tables, Gorton P2-3, New Hermes pantographs (2), and recently, 24" x 36" chinese router. Also do sublimation, sand blasting, & metal photo. Engraver since 1975.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victor, NY
    Posts
    1,288
    Hi Guys;
    I do it using Mike Nulss's method= eyeball it and let it fall as it may. If it's a little off, I tell the customer it's a custom fit and has character!!
    If anyone is that particular I immediately tell them they are no longer welcome as a customer- really cuts down on the business but also the complaints!!
    Best regards;
    George
    LaserArts

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