Probably an old trick for the router table

[keith ouellette]

but I just learned it. Some one told me I would get better results on the router table if I used the fence instead of the bearing. It was partially true. I made a first light pass on the drawers and then set up the second pass so the fence was just less than 1/16 in front of the bearing. Things were going fine till I looked at the work and noticed a little tear out on an edge and another drawer had an un even spot in the middle of the cut.
I was dismayed till I remembered that little bit of extra room I had to move the fence back. I reset the fence and the 3/64 in cut I made not only took care of the problem but the slight cut made it look more polished. I think I will take that extra step from now on.

[Wade Lippman]

Often that is true, and the dust collection is much better; but sometimes it is just easier to use the bearing.

[Johnathan Bussom]

Keith,
I am not an expert by any means when it comes to using a router but I mostly like using the fence (right or wrong) and make a couple passes rather than hogging the bit and experiencing tearouts.

Sometimes I end up with a piece that the grain is going wrong way for the cut and if you don't take light passes it would kill the project, like I said I am not an expert but I find that taking my time on certain things helps!

[Rick Thom]

I was dismayed till I remembered that little bit of extra room I had to move the fence back. I reset the fence and the 3/64 in cut I made not only took care of the problem but the slight cut made it look more polished. I think I will take that extra step from now on.

Keith, this method is standard fare particularly when dealing with wood that tends to burn like cherry, soft maple and so forth. Easily removes any burn marks/discolouration or minor imperfections.

[Greg Cole]

If you put a strip of painters tape (on the surface the bearing rides on) on your initial passes and then remove it for the finas pass you'll find that you will get a very clean edge and no burning (so long as you don't move the work too slowly).
When cutting dovetails etc I find if I push my work past the bit and pull it back (ie climb cut be it a "zero cut pass") also lends to a nice clean cut & edge.

Greg