Newbie Chisel Question (or Two)

[Chris Foley]

This is really a two part question.

The first is related to a set of chisels that I bought a long time ago. They are Craftsman (don't shoot me!) and have always worked well. However, I am setting up my shop to make furniture. Do I need to replace these? I mean, they are solidly built with a striking cap. They just need to be sharpened.

The second is...how do I find a good sharpener in my area? Especially one that knows ww'ing tools?

Thanks,
Chris

[Gary Herrmann]

Try Scary Sharp. Sandpaper and a piece of glass. Buy the LV honing guide. Its really easy to lap and sharpen chisels - you'll be pleasantly surprised.

[Tim Leo]

If your not sure if they need to be replaced, send them to me and I'll inspect them for you.

[Mark Stutz]

Chris,
Don't automatically discount those chisels until you use them. Looks are secondary to how they will take and hold an edge. Next is how they feel in the hand.

I would agree that you should find an experienced sharpener in your area...to teach you how to do it! Probably not what you wanted to hear, but this is a skill that is essential. I rehone often during projects. What if you nick an edge? You don't want to stop work for 2 weeks waiting for your chisel to come back to you. Whether a chisel or plane iron, it is more dangerous, IMO, to use a dull or partially dull edge tool, since the tendency will be to force it to something...it slips...and you're in the ER.


Sharpening is something that you can teach yourself from books, videos, forums, which is what I did, and am still doing, but some hands on instruction can be invaluable. Good luck. Working with nicely sharpened chisel opened a new method of work for me.

Mark

[Brian Kent]

Chris, I don't know what area you live in, but I have checked around a little and the best sharpener is you.

So far the system that suits me is the "3M micro-abrasive film" from "Tools for Working Wood" on a piece of polished marble floor tile from Home Depot. A honing guide helps too.

Microabrasives with a good explanation of the "Scary Sharp" method:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...ppingfilm.html

$12.00 honing guide:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2417

or probably better $55.00 honing guide:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43078

Also, if you tell us where you live, there's bound to be somebody in our area who can walk through the process hands on.

[Steve Wargo]

I think that the best answer to your questions is to try as many as you can, both chisels and sharpening methods. I have both waterstones a couple oil stones and a DMT stone. I use leather strops for carving tools. I also have a pretty good assortment of Two Cherries Chisels, Japanese Chisels Stanley 750's that I don't use , a couple Marples Blue Chips, Some dollar store chisels and of course some old vintage steel chisels. I use most of them. The cheapies have been reground for tasks like fitting LN saw nuts and such. But the others all work well. I'm almost to the point of selling my Two Cherries to buy more good Japanese chisels, but not quite there yet. What I'm trying to say is that some chisels will simply feel better in your hand. Some will feel better on the wood. Some will hold their edge longer. Some will sharpen easier. If you can team up with someone with a wide spectrum of chisels you can try them out and see what you like. You may find that your Craftsman chisels will serve you well. Good luck, and hope this helps and doesn't confuse.

[Richard Niemiec]

Keep the Craftsman set, if its more than 10 years old the steel is likely ok, and use them for the rough work. I have a set and that's my approach. I save the 750s, the Union and Witherbys for the finer work. Watch garage sales and fleas, the older ones will turn up for a few dollars apiece and are well worth rehabbing as some recent threads have pointed out. Call me crazy, but spending an hour after work rehabbing a chisel is fun, and at the end you have a tool to use for a long time.