Well, it sounds like you made your choice. I have yet to hear much of a difference between the Hitachi and the Makita. I would have gone with the Makita, solely for the fact that it is Assembled in the USA. Hope you enjoy your new saw.
Well, it sounds like you made your choice. I have yet to hear much of a difference between the Hitachi and the Makita. I would have gone with the Makita, solely for the fact that it is Assembled in the USA. Hope you enjoy your new saw.
Every time I tout my favorite compound sliding miter saw, I feel that I may have offended everyone else that does not have that particular saw. Woodworkers grow fond of their tools, so why knock it. Instead I would rather talk about features. So here goes.
That kinda covers the more important considerations. Maybe I will think of a few more and come back, but that about covers it at the moment.
- A vertical handle is grippable by either hand. Think about the problem you have with a horizontal handle. If you grip it with your right hand, you have a power on button under your index finger. If you grab it with your left hand, you squeeze the trigger with your pinky; an awkward feeling maneuver. You will find that although you favor positioning your workpiece off to the left, especially if you have a stop system, with a measure, but invariably, there are times when you want the workpiece off to the right, and want to grip the handle with your left hand. So the upright handles are ambidexterous, because with either hand you are squeezing the trigger with an index finger.
- Accuracy. This is what 90 percent of the saw is all about. Not only accuracy in the miter cuts, but in the bevels as well.
- The sliding mechanism. Is it built on dual rails, do they slide evenly and smoothly, or does it feel like it was made with square bearings, with a wierd vibration, as you slide it out, and push it in.
- Motor positioning. Fan belt drives in heavy cast iron trunions, like in a table saw work well without vibration, BUT, consider what is going on in a sliding miter. You have an arm, that is only attached at one end in the back, at the end of a long arm, that is attached to a spinning blade, and a pulley. This long extended arm, with the blade spinning is now plunging through wood. A problem is that when trying to make a bevel by tilting the saw to the right, if the motor is positioned as a direct to blade drive, the motor gets in the way of the tilt. A belt drive allows you to get the motor out of the way, but I think at the expense of increased vibration. An alternative is do a direct drive attached right to the blade, and tilt the motor up at a 45 degree angle, so it is out of the way. When you compare this saw, and the bevel capacity in total degrees to the right, to the saws with the belt drives, at least on some of them, the saw with the 45 degree direct drive motor, beats them in capacity as well, with a steeper degree capacity, although not by more than a few degrees.
- Quality blade included. Does it come with a cheapy blade, that requres an expensive replacement, or does it come with an expensive high quality blade that provides glass smooth, and I mean cuts as smooth as glass, right out of the box. No blade upgrade required.
- 12" saws have some blade wobble. That is true, but in the saws that I have both the 10 and 12" model, the blade wobble does not result in any imperfection in the net results of the cut. Glass smooth, not even tiny ridges in the cut, and accuarcy beyond measurement, even when checked with a Bosch digital protractor, which measures in tenths of a degree, which is equal to 3600 dots in a circle, no matter how small that circle is. And accurate at the detent stops throughout at that level of accuracy.
- Quiet and smooth.
- A cheap feeling with blades guards that seem to flap in the wind when you close the blade on a workpiece.
- Ample power.
- Does it throw waste scrap pieces flying at 100 miles per hour.
- Is it built to be a brute work horse, while at the same time be a fine precision instrument.
- Forget about the dust collection on any of them, although the dust bag fills up, it catches a small percentage of what flys out the back. Hard to get a saw cutting so many angles to catch everything. A trap built out the back is required if you want to catch everything.
- Scales accuarate on the rules. Can you dial in a 25 degree bevel, by only using the rule and the pointer, and get an accurate cut that is so accurate, it is not off by a tenth of a degree.
- Does it cost a little more than the cheapest saw. Is an up to $100 savings, in order to get a cheaper saw, really worth it if you get less than stellar results? Especially on a lifetime tool that you can use all of the time. Miter cuts on the table saw with a high quality miter gauge give you great results, but when you have a totally accurate miter saw, it is nice to drop the workpiece down, to a measured stop, and plunge away. No more making 4 45 degree cuts, and they do not fit perfectly when making a picture frame.
Last edited by Bob Feeser; 12-22-2007 at 11:19 PM.
"Fine is the artist who loves his tools as well as his work."
I have the 12" dewalt and have been very pleased with its durability and power but I do find it difficult to be extremely precise due to deflection with the 12" blade. I was given the saw by my father in law and I love it (and can't complain about the price) but I think I would feel more confident about accuracy with a 10" or maybe better yet a 8.5" slider. I do some hardwood floors on the side and it is aggravating carting that monster 12"er out on jobs when a "little" guy would suffice.
If money wasn't an object I think I would have a hard time deciding between a hitachi 8.5" slider and a hitachi 10" slider
I've got the Dewalt 12"CSMS. I've been able to be accurate using a quality, sharp blade. The one that came with it rang like the Liberty Bell. I don't trust the lazer. I do like that it's size is compact for the capacity it has. One little thing too is that you can't clamp a stop at 14-1/2 inches, the size of a block between studs. All in all, It's a very well built saw and easy to use for me. I'm ambidextrious and the flat handle doesn't bother me at all. I pull the trigger in the center of either hand. IMHO I give it a 7.5 out of 10.
What you listen to is your business....what you hear is ours.
Yes, it does. Rebate for the router good on purchases through 1/31/08. If it was a plunge router, it would make the deal for me to the Hitachi for sure. (My PC plunge speed control went out a while back. I have it wired for full speed so it is usuable, but not as versatile as it was.)
I'll still report back if I get an answer from Amazon on the promo code. Jim.
Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
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Member of the G0691 fan club!
At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...Most likely I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, s3.
Jeff if you do a Google search for "reconditioned Hitachi" you will save a pile of money on this and other Hitachi tools and get the same warranty. This is Hitachis factory authorized recondition tool site. Some people have strange aversions to recon tools, if you are one of them just ignore this but if not go save yourself some money. I have purchased from them as well as some others here on the Creek. Good company to deal with and free shipping on everything. Id give you the link here but the link police will arrest me for doing such a horrible thing! LOL
If at first you don't succeed, look in the trash for the instructions.
Well, in the light of day after a good night's sleep, I see the link I provided in post 29 is not a slider. No wonder it was so cheap!! Jim.
ps. Jeff, the free router is good from Hitachi no matter where you purchase the unit. This is not an Amazon freebie, but a free tool from Hitachi by mail in rebate.
Last edited by Jim O'Dell; 12-23-2007 at 10:33 AM.
Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas.
No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
Member of the G0691 fan club!
At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...Most likely I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, s3.
Mark Rios
Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.
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Jeff,
when it comes to buying tools I think the "different strokes for different folks applies" . I have a makita 10" slider and a Bosch 12" slider, I might as well sell the makita, I use the bosch for everything and the main reason is the lever for your bevels is at the front of the saw, most saws you have to reach around the back. Happy woodworking with whatever you buy!
Just a note to folks following this thread. I just noticed that Amazon has dropped the price on the Makita LS1013FL to 475.00 sometime in the last few hours. Free shipping, and I think this unit gets a 35.00 Amazon certificate to be mailed to you after 90 days. It's getting there. I'll be anxious to see if it continues to fall in price. Jim.
Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas.
No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
Member of the G0691 fan club!
At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...Most likely I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, s3.
I'm going to place an order for the Hitachi tonite. Am I correct in thinking it DOES NOT come with a blade? If not, I will add the Forrest Chopmaster blade as well.
Heavydutytools has it for $448 with free shipping. http://www.heavydutytools.net/Script...?idproduct=495
EDIT: Sorry----I see that they are out of stock now.
Last edited by Allen Bookout; 12-23-2007 at 3:46 PM.