Changed Sawstop DC port to 6 inch

[David Giles]

Rather than buy a cyclone, I decided to tackle the most daunting project first, increasing the DC port on the Sawstop to 6". It would have been straightforward to add a metal takeoff plenum, but since the remaining duct is all 6" PVC, it made sense just to stay PVC all the way.

One key is to rout a template hole of the 6" pipe using a flushtrim bit and a pipe cap. The template should tightly fit over the pipe. Then make a couple of sacrificial templates from the first template to use as guides in cutting a hole in the saw wall. Grind or cut off the 4" port that is tacked welded to the wall. The top of the 6.2" diameter hole is the same as the 4" port in order for the 6" fittings to lay on the floor of the saw.

The hole was cut undersized with a jigsaw and ground smooth with a Dremel (which is a slightly underpowered tool for this job, but it can be done). The template was crucial in making a perfect hole diameter.

A 5.75" long pipe was inserted in the hole and sandwiched between the internal and external fitting. It doesn't matter if it leaks a little into the saw.

Inside the saw is a 6x6x4 tee with a pipe cap end. The 4" stub connects to the shroud around the saw blade with thin, flexible hose. The pipe cap has a hole cut in it to increase the total air flow. The tee and pipe cap have to be shortened or the motor will contact it when lowered.

I didn't put a blast gate at the saw. There is plenty of air flow at the end of the run for a future router table collection system.'

After changing all of the ports and ductwork to 6", the little 1.5HP Jet motor pulls plenty of air! I think I'll turn that plastic shed into a knockout dust collection bin and forgo the cyclone for now!

dcoverall.jpg dcbench.jpg dcbench2.jpg dcosjet.jpg dcsawstop.jpg

[Walt Caza]

Nice work David,
I admire your courage to cut into your black beauty.
I admire the courage of your conviction to refuse compromising your
dust collection. Since the first moment I uncrated my black beauty
the 4" dust outlet has bothered me. I have been slow to modify it.
I understand the focus is on a quality, safer saw but I am a bit
disappointed with the small dust port. I do believe adequate d/c is part of shop safety.
I understand 'one-size-fits-most' doesn't work, but ideally
the dust port could be on a swappable panel to more readily tailor to suit all configurations. (is anybody out there?)

I have 6" metal ductwork right up to my saw, and then choke down to 4"
with a pair of adaptors. This bottleneck is a sure compromise.
Your set-up will allow more air movement. If I may ask, were you tempted
to find a way to go bigger than 4" to the blade shroud?
Did you spend enough time with the original d/c config to be able to
do an A-B comparison of the effectiveness of the new set-up?

Hopefully sooner, rather than later I will enlarge my port as you did. I
also have been dragging my feet to implement overblade d/c as well.
I read a posting from Mr. Gass a while back, foretelling of a SS blade
guard with d/c to come. No news yet.
Failing that, Creeker Roy Wall has an elegant solution of using a Felder
blade guard for overhead d/c. His solution mounts unobtrusively to
the stock riving knife.(or was it the blade guard post?)
No need to dance with a bulky overhead boom arm.
Roy did not use a 10", but rather a 12 or 14" Felder guard.
If I recall correctly, at full blade elevation the blade did just nick the guard.
If I was more pc savy, I would post a link to his excellent posting.

Thanks for sharing pics of your saw imrpovement.
I would love for you to post a follow-up on this thread to let us know how it works out for you.
be well,
Walt

ps if and when you do upgrade to a cyclone, your larger port is still gold!

[David Giles]

Thanks for your comments, Walt. Yes, the toughest part was touching the Sawzall to that first cut! As it was Christmas Eve when the blower was finally connected, I've only made a few test cuts, but the difference was night and day. Previously, the air flow was so low that sawdust would set in the blade shroud flexhose and would jet out of the front opening. Now whatever is inside the saw is captured.

Dust still ejects from the top side of the blade. I like Grippers which preclude overarm dust control and have decided that I can live with this dust. The garage/shop has rollup doors on both ends which lets a constant air flow sweep out the fines.

As far as increasing the size of the blade shroud vent, I took one look at the 4" cast connection and decided that was beyond my capabilities! The 4" shroud does a pretty good job of mechanically collecting dust from the blade and the other openings inside the cabinet pull enough air to keep dust from escaping from the front opening.

One of my main objectives was to get the DC collection piping off the floor. I was always tripping over it and trying to sweep under it. I'd like to make a short assembly cart that I can roll around. At fifty, lifting some of those cabinet boxes is starting to hurt my back.

The other question is whether the little Jet blower provides sufficient air flow to keep chips from filling the ductwork. I acknowledge that it's a potential problem, but I've never read where it has actually occurred. If it doesn't happen with this system, it's probably not a real life home shop DC situation.

So what I've learned agrees with Bill Pentz's posts and website (I think). First, venting outside solves all sorts of problems if your climate and shop permits it. Second, since some dust always escapes the tool, a good cross flow ventilation system or air filtration system is needed. Third, big ducts and ports are better than small ones.

Merry Christmas!

[Steve Clardy]

Looks great David