Great choice. I was going to suggest this but then saw that you'd already purchased one. I'm just finishing up a bigger table for mine and then it will be perfect. Already is a joy to use.
Great choice. I was going to suggest this but then saw that you'd already purchased one. I'm just finishing up a bigger table for mine and then it will be perfect. Already is a joy to use.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to purchase the Steel City one from my local Woodcraft within the next month or so.
My question is - when I purchase it, will they give me the one in the store, or a new, untouched one? Also, I noticed that the depth stop has some give in it - is that from wear (people playing with it) or is it just like that?
OK, one more question - how do you guys purchase and move these heavy things? Hand truck? The drill press isn't too bad, but once I start looking to get a bandsaw or something bigger...
Peter, all I can say is have a friend to help, especially when assembling the DP! Getting that cast iron head up on top of that little pole is tough by yourself. I did it, but there were a couple of times I thought I was going to drop the thing! The bandsaw was much easier to walk off the pallet, IMHO. Jim.
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Thanks for the tip Jim - I undoubtedly would have tried it myself risking the same thing had you not warned me.
Please educate me! Every time one of these threads pops up, several people recommend buying a DP with a 6 inch throw. I have had a tabletop drill press for quite a while, and I have yet to encounter a need to drill 6 inches. I am planning to buy a new DP soon. Please tell me why I need that feature. It knocks out a whole bunch of otherwise nice machines.
Peter,
I just had a 630 lb. PM3520B lathe and 480 lb. B/S delivered to my shop. Both drivers used pallet jacks and placed them inside the garage door on my shop. Then I used a Little Giant ladder and a come-along and a chain hoist to remove them from the pallets. The lathe I slid the length of my shop on the pallet and then hoisted the bed up and bolted the legs on. Then I mounted the tailstock and tool rest.
The b/s I hoisted up, unbolted it from the pallet and kicked the pallets out from under it. Then I lowered it to the floor after bolting it's wheel assemby on it.
No lifting.
Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 12-27-2007 at 11:02 PM.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
OK, I guess I need to get a chain hoist then
Thanks a lot for the information, this is all quite new to me.
You may never, Art. I have never had to go 6" in wood. I have gone over 4 1/2" quite a number of times as I build some pretty hefty work-benches for freinds and acquaintances that are willing to pay. I use a LV twin screw vise on the end and I have to drill through thick base legs with my design to allow the threaded screws to go through. I often go 4" on a top and would love to use the DP to drill dog holes in succession.
I do use it to go as deep as it will allow which is 3 3/4" and then have to finish with a hand-held brace and auger bit. So.. even though I have never needed 6" (YET)... I would love to have it for wood.
But... I could have used it quite often as I also do some metal working. I have been associated with re-building old American Muscle Cars for quite a number of year. Over 4" and sometimes even beyong 6" on certain frame rails is not that uncommon there and I have to take it to a local machine shop in those cases.
So... again, you may never need it and then again you just might someday. I see it even in an all wood scenario as "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Regards...
Sarge..
Last edited by John Thompson; 12-27-2007 at 11:26 PM.
More than 4" of drilling depth comes in real handy if you want to turn pens on a lathe and need to drill the bushing holes.
You need more than 4" of quill travel to drill the bushing holes for some pen blanks...
Dick