My New Shop Plans

[Art Mulder]

Are the cyclones so loud that a closet is necessary? And my compressor will be contained under the bench on the south wall so some noise will be suppressed.

"necessary" is up to you. I don't have a cyclone, just a 2HP single-bag DC and it is pretty darn loud. I don't have a big compressor, just your basic PC pancake compressor, and it is possibly louder than my DC.

With a shop the size of yours, I would certainly give some thought to walling off the DC+Compressor in a closet. I've seen it done in many other shops posted here and on other forums, and it really seems like a good idea.

...art

[Larry Nall]

I have to agree with Bob. Seventeen four-bulb fixtures seems like a lot.
I'm building a 26x34 shop and just getting to the interior. I'm using twelve four-bulb t-8 fixtures. The ceiling is half in and I've got four of the fixtures up. Seems like its going to be plenty.

I'm also using OSB for the ceiling and siding. I used 1/4" on the ceiling. The pluses, it's real cheap. It's light and easy to work with. The minuses, you have to use a bunch of screws to keep it from sagging, and it soaks up paint like a sponge.

I'll have to use thicker OSB on the walls. The quarter inch likely won't hold a screw much better than sheet rock.

[Dwayne Watt]

With 8' ceilings you need to shield the light fixtures to minimize the potential for breakage (particularly fluorescents). Good luck with the new shop. It will be a fun project.

[George Bregar]

Thanks Bob, Art, Larry, et al. Here are the revisions based on comments and additional thoughts.

Eliminated the finishing room, moving the DC into the corner. I can then wall it off. I will simply do finishing in the east side of the shop. I don't work wood when finishing, and have used a garage in the past with good results...even when spraying with the HVLP turbine set-up.

Drum sander then can be moved closer to the DC.

Eliminated counter on south wall...I will have more than enough storage, and like the workbench by the windows, natural light, and low angle light that is necessary for finish work. Better (and cheaper) than counters are mobile carts that can be moved where I need them...they will be the height of the machines so they can be used for out/infeed if required. Eliminating counters also opens up space between machines for material or cart movement. I am a hobbyist, so access is more important than proximity. I don't mind walking to get something (and we are not talking very far) but not having room drives me NUTS!

West wall will be used to hang TS and RT jigs. Cabinets and drawers above below planer station. Tool storage chest on South wall will also hold my compressor and reel hose to access to assembly area and workbench. All machines will have cabinet for applicable storage (drill press- drill bits, router table-router bits, table saw-blades, etc.

Added some additional 220V, and overhead 110V is now in the assembly/finishing area.

Thinking about the lights.

[Don Bullock]

That looks great to me. I even printed out a copy to go in my "shop ideas" book that I'm making. Like you, work flow isn't as important as space utilization for me. I hope it all works out for you.

[Bob Antoniewicz]

Does the dashed green line indicate under-floor DC? If so, you might try to figure out a way to lay out your tools as you show in the plan. Give it a walk through with as large a stick as you think you'll use, and again with a sheet of ply. This would help you confirm your thoughts on the layout or maybe adjust it. Under-floor utilities are great unless they are in the wrong place.

Counting the squares from the tablesaw blade to the bandsaw shows 7 squares. If each of those are one foot, you won't be able to fit a 4'x8' sheet of plywood on the infeed side of the tablesaw.

Jointer is still quite close to the CMS.

Still no refrigerator???

Bob A.

[George Bregar]

Does the dashed green line indicate under-floor DC? If so, you might try to figure out a way to lay out your tools as you show in the plan. Give it a walk through with as large a stick as you think you'll use, and again with a sheet of ply. This would help you confirm your thoughts on the layout or maybe adjust it. Under-floor utilities are great unless they are in the wrong place.

Yes it does. Going to cut thru the slab and put ductwork and electric under the slab. I will fine tue the positioning, and flex hosefrom the floor to machine will compensate for anything more.

Counting the squares from the tablesaw blade to the bandsaw shows 7 squares. If each of those are one foot, you won't be able to fit a 4'x8' sheet of plywood on the infeed side of the tablesaw.

I have 10' behind the blade to the wall. The BS is on a mobile base if I need to move it I can. I seldom cut full sheet goods. So it's okay.

Jointer is still quite close to the CMS.

3 feet should be good me thinks. I'd rather keep the distance between the TS and bench.

Still no refrigerator???

I have one in the cottage, and will have a big ole Morris Chair for my big ole butt. But I'll keep it in mind!

[Nancy Laird]

Not sure what your long term plans are but if you are closing your walls in I would put in a couple of extra 220 plugs . I have found that I have expanded and change my shop around a lot, as in once you start to work in them, you sometimes change your mind as to the work flow and what you need and if you ever need to upgrade some of the equipment you will have the 220 in place…good luck

I would also make sure to have a 220 outlet near where you currently have your lathe. You might want to upgrade to a 220 unit one of these days!

Edit: Oops, sorry. didn't see the modified plan until after I posted this. And I see you followed my advice.

Nancy

[Steven Beam]

What software did you use for your floor plan. I've been looking for something similar. Thanks

[George Bregar]

What software did you use for your floor plan. I've been looking for something similar. Thanks

I just used Grizzly's Work Shop Planner application http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx and then PrintScreened and pasted it into MS Paint. So unless you are on a Mac you're all set.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Please consider changing to a 10' ceiling. I went with 8' and I kick myself every time I walk in the door. You get much more versatility in project selection. It is also much easier to handle 4X8 sheet goods. Money well spent IMHO.

[George Bregar]

Please consider changing to a 10' ceiling. I went with 8' and I kick myself every time I walk in the door. You get much more versatility in project selection. It is also much easier to handle 4X8 sheet goods. Money well spent IMHO.

Well, not sure how I'm going to lift the roof up while I put in higher walls. Seriously, it's and existing garage. So 8' it is.

[John Maus]

George,

Nice planning on upcoming shop. I'll be following you through the construction, hope you keep us posted. How did the Grizzly planner work for you? Did it have all the equipment you needed for your shop? Just a brief look at it seemed like some critical wood shop items were missing. Did you have to do any work-arounds with planner?

Good Luck

John

[George Bregar]

George,

Nice planning on upcoming shop. I'll be following you through the construction, hope you keep us posted. How did the Grizzly planner work for you? Did it have all the equipment you needed for your shop? Just a brief look at it seemed like some critical wood shop items were missing. Did you have to do any work-arounds with planner?

Good Luck

John

Thanks John. It had most...I did some substitution...IIRC I used a shaer in place of a router table...look similar and the footprint was same or at least close. I then did a screen print and dropped it into MS paint to add dust collection porting, and electrical circuit info (which I didn't post).

What do think is missing?

[John Maus]

George,

I did what you did without a specific workbench icon (just used a counter top and sized it to match my bench). I was also looking for a radial arm saw and a miter saw but didn't find them. Might just be looking too quickly. I used a shaper ILO router table and sized it to match also. Thanks for the tip on dropping design into other programs to make final adjustments.

John