Question about planing

[Derek Larson]

I am very much an amateur when it comes to wood working. I have been doing some reading on cabinetry specifically raised panel, I have yet to start a project because I want to get all my facts straight. I went to the lumber yard to look at some solid oak boards and I noticed that they were all planed to 3/4". From what I have read most components of the cabinet (face frame, rails, stiles and sometimes the panel) are 3/4" thick, what is confusing me is that I was under the impression that all the wood should be planed again in your shop to the correct thickness. But if it is already 3/4" thick should I plane it down to 5/8" or do you leave it at 3/4". Or should I buy rough stock that is 1" thick (not sure I can even get that) and plane that down to 3/4". Basically what do you folks typically do. And Correct me if I am wrong, but i do not have a a raised panel bit with a back cutter so i was going to plane the panel down to 5/8".

[Al Killian]

It is hard to find boards from any place that are truely 3/4" thick and not twisted, bowed or booth. This why if you can, buy rough sawn mill it close to final size and let it rest a few day before takeing it to final specs.

For the raised panel, yes. If you want the panel to be flush with the frame plane it down to 5/8".

[Peter Quadarella]

I think Al was missing a crucial piece of punctuation that may make that hard to understand, so I will clarify a little:

This why if you can, buy rough sawn. Mill it close to final size and let it rest a few days before taking it to final specs.

From what I have seen, this is what most people do. Many do not let it rest though.

[Jim Becker]

Derek, some retailers and other sources sell lumber pre-surfaced to a given thickness. That's what it sounds like you saw. While I'll accept something that's skim/skip planed (just a little taken off to expose what's in the wood) I prefer to flatten and thickness the stock in my own shop. If you want to do that, then you'll want to source rough stock or material like I mentioned above. And the more work the source puts into it, the higher your cost is going to be, despite the fact that it may not be flat nor exactly the thickness specified.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Typically finish lumber from a lumberyard that is S2S (surfaced two sides) is a 1/16 or so over 3/4. This is done for two reasons. The end user can surface out any blemishes that result in handling (throwing around) between the time it leaves the mill and you lay your hands on it and if the lumber sits for any length of time a fresh face can be obtained by planing to 3/4.

If you don't have a panel raising bit with an undercutter you will have to take your lumber thinner - the 5/8 you were talking about - if you want all front surfaces to be flush, because fitting the panel into the face frame will recess it from the back. If you are going to have to plane it anyway and have a source of rough cut one inch lumber and don't mind extra wear on your planer knives it will likely be cheaper to buy that way.

[Eric Gustafson]

I find this annoying. too. Woodworker's source, where I get most of my hardwood, only stocks wood surfaced both sides. The 4/4 usually measures 13/16". That leaves very little room to further mill if the board has any cup or twist. I have learned to be very careful not to buy a piece that has any cup. Most of the wood is not twisted, thankfully.

If I could get rough sawn in this part of the country, I would. But I haven't found any yet.

[Scott Velie]

For a beginner buying surfaced wood is a plus. You can purchase boards ready to go without planing. Most lumberyards are OK with you going through the whole pile to find that perfect flat,straight board. (as long as you re-stack the pile).
That is a great way to start until you get comfortable working with wood. When your tool collection grows to include a jointer and a planer. Then it is much easier to make things the thickness you want. You can make that panel 3/8' or 7/8" or whatever you want.
Also you can get rough sawn wood which is less expensive. You can look for sawmills instead of lumberyards.

Good luck , just buy a piece of wood and get started!!!

Scott