Suggestions on finishing built-in

[James Rowe]

My wife would like me to build a built-in entertainment center in our living room. It would be a large unit, floor to ceiling and 16'+ long. She would like it "painted" white. I am looking for suggestions on how and what type of finish would provide a smooth "factory" like finish that is durable. I do not have spray equipment but this may be may golden opportunity. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have hand painted all my previous projects. The results were OK with flotrol or the specialized "trim" paints but I am looking for a higher quality finish. I have generally added a water based poly over the latex or acrylic paint for added durability...not bad but I am hoping for a little better finish. I really would prefer a water-based finish because ventilation in my basement shop is always a concern.

Thanks in advance....

Jaimie

[Jamie Buxton]

For cabinets, I'm a big fan of pigmented waterborne "lacquer", HVLP'd. Unlike the latex paint from the big-box stores, waterborne lacquers dry hard, and dry quickly. And, as you've observed, this paint job may be the opportunity to acquire an HVLP sprayer which can be used with clear wood finishes on future projects.

I put lacquer in quotes because the waterborne stuff isn't nitrocellulose, which is what most people consider to be real lacquer. Good waterborne lacquer is a good finish. I use Target's waterbornes. Their Ultima Spray Lacquer would be a good finish for your project. Homestead Finishes will add the white pigment you want. http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...etcoatings.htm

[Jim Becker]

To add to Jamie's recommendation, the Target product, while having the name "lacquer" in the name and having some of the very desirable properties of the same (like burn-in), is an acrylic product like almost every water borne product. It goes on wonderfully and does not have the "blocking" problem (stickiness) that typical latex paints have. If you want to brush your finish, you can look to products like Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic 100% acrylic or Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo 100% acrylic. They also don't have the blocking problem like latex paint and with good application techniques including a quality brush, will flow out nicely.

Putting varnish or other clear coats over latex paint is just putting something harder over a soft finish. It will not last over time...

[Randy Carnley]

My vote is for a catalyzed varnish and HVLP.

[James Rowe]

Thanks all, I had read through some of the previous posts and had thought that a pigmented laquer would be the correct approach but as this is not a product I was familiar with I was looking for some additional thougths and direction. Thanks for the links and input....I see a HVLP system coming in the near future for applying the lacquer finish.

I will read some of the links of HVLP system recommendations for someone who wants to think of themselves as a "serious" wordworking hobbiest.

Thanks again everyone,

Jaimie

[Rob Amadon]

Jaimie,

If you already own a compressor (even if you don't) look at HVLP (or reduced pressure, or LVLP) conversion guns. It is much cheaper to buy a very high quality gun than to buy a decent turbine system. The gun will also give you more versatility in what you spray. The only real downside is that if you have a large compressor they aren't very portable.

Here is a link to a site that has a lot of info on spray guns and woodworking. Click on the gravity feed link and then click the "small compressor low air wood section" for some surprising info on just how small of a compressor you actually need to use a good gun. I bought a SATA gun from them recently and I am very happy with it. It is probably a better gun than I am a finisher, but I may even the score someday.

http://www.spraygunworld.com/Informa...odworking3.htm

Rob