Waterlox

[david pouliot]

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding Waterlox finish? I was considering using it on an entertainment center.

[Jim O'Dell]

Do a search in the finishing forum below. I did a few weeks ago and found some great information, then posted some questions that really helped me. I just used it on my router table cabinet and I like what it did, and it was very easy to wipe on. Jim.

[Jesse Cloud]

Waterlox is an old standby, widely used. Sand down to 180 grit. If you are using the wipe-on version, get a small piece (say 4 inches square) of clean cloth and fold it a couple of times. Pour some of the Waterlox in a plastic cup. Dip the rag in the cup and rub it in until the rag doesn't seem to be adding any more finish to the wood, dip again, keep going. Overlap slightly and feather it out gently. I like to wait about an hour, then buff it with another clean rag, then start over on the next coat.

With wipe on, you will probably want to apply 4 or 5 coats. If its too shiny for your taste, scuff it up gently with 0000 steel wool. Put a little paste wax on if you like.

By the way, a little Waterlox goes a long way. Don't buy the big can yet!

I think you will like Waterlox. Hope this helps. And Welcome to the Forum!!

[Rob Haskell]

Hi
I use waterlox on my wood island countertops and it has alot of
benefits. You can recoat it on the job easily if someone scratches it.
Any helper can apply it. It's quite a hard finish. We've only applied it
on horizontal surfaces so if you didn't prefinish your panels laying
horizontal it might not be so easy to get a good finish. It's a hard oil
finish, if you want something more natural go with a Watco oil product.
Good Luck

[Robert Waddell]

I've used it several times over the last year on things like counter tops, and furniture. I love it. It is so easy to use you can't mess up. I apply it with a foam applicator and it levels out on its own with almost no nibs. It seems to be very tough like a polyurethane but builds like lacquer, disolving into the previous layer. I've used the med. gloss and the satin. If you go the satin route make sure you keep stirring the can as you are using it.
Rob

[scott kinninger]

Waterlox Original S/F is my "go to" finish. It brushes or wipes on easily, has very good self leveling characteristics, adds very nice color to the wood, and has a good gloss. I dont have any spray equipment and only do a few smaller projects per year but think Waterlox works very well for me. I do use shellac and occasionally brush on laquer but I have no intention of using any other type of varnish. Waterlox always exceeds my expectations. I have noticed that I needed to start wearing a respirator when using it though because it would cause headaches, so I would recommend the same for you.

[Fred Voorhees]

I used it extensively in my bar room build. I love it. It's pricey, but I think it is worth the expense.

[Joe Chritz]

IBTM (In before the move)

Good stuff and about the only wipe on finish I use at all.

Joe

[Tim Anderson]

I'm very happy with it. 2 coats gives a deep hard finish that was very easy to apply and very durable.

[Brian Kent]

What are "PATS" Gary?

Is that some of shop rag for wiping on waterlox?

(I'm a Charger fan. Our unspoken prayer has been, "Please don't make us play New England until we absolutely have to!" Go Jaguars! Anybody! Please!!!)

[david babcock]

is waterlox a standard oil stain or more like a varnish? what exactly is it?

Secondly: what products compare to waterlox in its composition and characteristics- in case I am unable to find it at any local paint or hardware stores?

thanks all.

[david babcock]

aha!
It's a phenolic resin/tung oil varnish that has excellent water and abration resistance.
How about the second question now?

[Steve Schoene]

The closest product in composition would be Behlen Rockhard, thinned with roughly an equal amount of thinner to make it a wiping varnish. However, it won't be more widely distributed than the Waterlox.
There are on-line sources, and stores like Woodcraft if you can't find either by calling around. Decent wiping varnishes can also be found by thinning other good varnishes such as McCloskey Heirloom (also Cabot oil based Varnish) and Pratt & Lambert 38. These latter varnishes use soya oil as an ingredient and are lighter in color.

[Carl Eyman]

I did a piece on which I used a lot of coats of Seedlac Shellac to fill the pores and wanted a more durable finish. Jeff recommended Water Lox. In this case he recommended I mix the original with the satin to get a little less shine. You can get it from him at homesteadfinishing.com or , as others have said people like Woodcraft.

[david babcock]

I did a piece on which I used a lot of coats of Seedlac Shellac to fill the pores and wanted a more durable finish. Jeff recommended Water Lox. In this case he recommended I mix the original with the satin to get a little less shine. You can get it from him at homesteadfinishing.com or , as others have said people like Woodcraft.

Carl,
how did this turn out? Did you use anything to stain dye or otherwise color the item? How was the waterlox to work with ontop of the shellac?
Any pictures?