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Thread: Plastic name tags

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Fulks Run, VA
    Posts
    29

    Plastic name tags

    Hello all,

    I have a question concerning the best ways of attaching the metal pins to the back of plastic name tags? I've looked at a couple and it looks like the findings are melted onto the back of the tag. Can anyone please tell me how this is done or suggest any other ways of securing the pins to the back of the plastic name tags. Thanks.

    Ashton

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
    Posts
    443
    Hi... finally, a question that an old timer can answer! A bit of interesting history... New Hermes had a patent on the process you speak of.... using ultrasonic energy to weld the pins on the back of badges. The patent ran out some years ago, and now anybody can use the process. Very expensive equipment though. Most shops use glue now... 3M #4475 works really well. Some findings come with a clear plastic strip that allow one to use the liquid solvents (methylene dichloride) to speed up the process. It works best with acrylic badges, but is nasty stuff. There is even really good double sided tape that will work. We use magnetic findings almost exclusively now (most customers willingly pay the extra buck to get them). These come with the adhesive already on them.

    Mark
    ULS X-2 660, Corel X3, Haas VF4, Graphtec vinyl cutter, Xenetech rotaries (3), Dahlgren Tables, Gorton P2-3, New Hermes pantographs (2), and recently, 24" x 36" chinese router. Also do sublimation, sand blasting, & metal photo. Engraver since 1975.

  3. #3
    Just to second what Mark says, my commercial customers almost always specify magnets which come with adhesive. My college clients use a lot of pins and they also have the adhesive strips.

    I have had no complaints in more than 9 years on either of these fasteners.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Just to second what Mark says, my commercial customers almost always specify magnets which come with adhesive. My college clients use a lot of pins and they also have the adhesive strips.

    I have had no complaints in more than 9 years on either of these fasteners.
    Same here, pins and magnetic with DS foam tape on them, no problems.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Innisfil Ontario Canada
    Posts
    4,019
    Now that they have some decent magnets available, I don't mind promoting magnets for my customers, but I still use a lot of pins. I use the ones with the plastic back, and a syringe of acetone to fix them on.. I put two or three tiny drops of acetone where the pin goes, then set it in place. The acetone will weld it to the plastic back. I have been using this method for almost 20 years and never had a pin separate from the badge yet.. There are some plastic backings that can not be affected by the acetone, but I have only come across them once, in one buy from a wholesaler. That particular backing was also very brittle and would actually break off the metal pinbacking. I complained to the wholesaler and they dumped them, and replaced the 500 I bought with the regular plastic backed ones..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

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