Circular saw guide?

[Darrell Jones]

I just purchased a Swanson CG 100 saw guide. Has the taller shoulder to accomodate my Mag 77 foot but is very flimsy. I used it last night for a router guide installing some shelf tracks and mid point (4') the guide lifted and the router went under it. Can anyone recommend a Heavy Duty guide with a tall shoulder? Thanks....DJ

[Mike Goetzke]

Darrell - go to the forum root page and way down on the bottom you'll find the "Manufacturer's Section." Then look at the Eurekazone forum. You can also go the Eurekazone site directly.

[Jim Becker]

Since you already have the saw, etc., I'll agree with Mike. The EZ system is a good candidate for your needs.

[John Bailey]

Many folks swear by the Festool or the EZ. The Festool needs a Festool saw, so, as Jim said, since you already have the saw, the EZ makes sense. Do visit the EZ forum in the Manufactures area.

John

[Jason White]

If you're looking for a "fence" just to guide your saw along, try the "tru-grip" self-clamping guides. Rockler also sells a version. They're quite handy.

Jason

I just purchased a Swanson CG 100 saw guide. Has the taller shoulder to accomodate my Mag 77 foot but is very flimsy. I used it last night for a router guide installing some shelf tracks and mid point (4') the guide lifted and the router went under it. Can anyone recommend a Heavy Duty guide with a tall shoulder? Thanks....DJ

[glenn bradley]

Darrell - go to the forum root page and way down on the bottom you'll find the "Manufacturer's Section." Then look at the Eurekazone forum. You can also go the Eurekazone site directly.

I wonder if a man who bought a $20 guide (I use one very similar) is really interested in spending over $100 for just one guide rail? And that's just the beginning of the slippery slope, eh?

I have looked at some expensive guide systems and hail them as a godsend for tight quarters and bad backs. As an additional guide for those with other tools I just haven't seen the light.

I use an inexpensive aluminum extrusion like Mike's. I do generally clamp a piece of scrap about midway to take some of the stress of of the rail and avoid flexing. For 48" and less I use a shop made guide like many of the folks here have made.

Mike, if you want some specific info on a decent shop made guide, PM me and I'll send you some stuff but generally it's like this:


The clamps Jason mentions may also be an alternative.

[Joseph N. Myers]

I just purchased a Swanson CG 100 saw guide. Has the taller shoulder to accomodate my Mag 77 foot but is very flimsy. I used it last night for a router guide installing some shelf tracks and mid point (4') the guide lifted and the router went under it. Can anyone recommend a Heavy Duty guide with a tall shoulder? Thanks....DJ

Darrell,

Another vote for Eurekazone, aka, EZ Smart System. No trouble handling the Mag 77 (CS) but with the "Smart Router Kit", can do a heck of a nice job with routers , i.e., x/y, stop dado's, etc.

With the Power Bench/Bridge (PBB) option, many of the EZ Users are selling their TS's and using the PBB instead.

Regards, Joe

[Mark Vaughn]

hey glenn, i've just made that guide that you have a picture of there and maybe i'm not thinking right but when i use it i feel like i have to use my left hand to guide it and it feels awkward. did i just make it backwards or something? i'm not understanding something about that jig

[Bill Huber]

I have been using the All In One clamps and really like them, the price is not to high and I use them a lot. All my sheets good are cut with them and I also use them when cutting dados and rabbets with the router. I have a 50 inch and a 36 inch, the 36 inch I use for the dados and rabbets the most.

The 50 inch is only like $38 and will will handle a sheet of plywood.

[Mike Goetzke]

I wonder if a man who bought a $20 guide (I use one very similar) is really interested in spending over $100 for just one guide rail? And that's just the beginning of the slippery slope, eh?

I have looked at some expensive guide systems and hail them as a godsend for tight quarters and bad backs. As an additional guide for those with other tools I just haven't seen the light.

I use an inexpensive aluminum extrusion like Mike's. I do generally clamp a piece of scrap about midway to take some of the stress of of the rail and avoid flexing. For 48" and less I use a shop made guide like many of the folks here have made.

Mike, if you want some specific info on a decent shop made guide, PM me and I'll send you some stuff but generally it's like this:


The clamps Jason mentions may also be an alternative.

Glenn - I have used weak aluminum guides that you run the saw against, straight piece of baltic birch clamped to the panel, and all-in-one clamps. The problem with these is you need to calculate the blade offset and sometimes the straight edge bows or the saw doesn't ride true against it so you have to cut oversize and re-cut it on the TS. I haven't found any of them to be a accurate nor simple to use as the Eurekazone guide rail - you just match the edge to your actual cut line, clamp it down (w/included clamps), and rip away. No need to re-cut it to actual size on the TS.

I purchased the guide rail system after thinking it wasn't very safe to break down 4x8 sheets of ply on my Unisaw by myself.

Oh, I guess I'm one who has seen the light . I'm not anywhere close to giving up my conventional tools but it's amazing what you can do only using a circular saw: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73582


Darrell - lots of choices and welcome to the forum!

Mike


Mike

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I wonder if a man who bought a $20 guide (I use one very similar) is really interested in spending over $100 for just one guide rail? And that's just the beginning of the slippery slope, eh?

I have looked at some expensive guide systems and hail them as a godsend for tight quarters and bad backs. As an additional guide for those with other tools I just haven't seen the light.

I use an inexpensive aluminum extrusion like Mike's. I do generally clamp a piece of scrap about midway to take some of the stress of of the rail and avoid flexing. For 48" and less I use a shop made guide like many of the folks here have made.

Mike, if you want some specific info on a decent shop made guide, PM me and I'll send you some stuff but generally it's like this:


The clamps Jason mentions may also be an alternative.

\\

Very nice homemade jig but the "guided jigs" like Festool and Eureka have one advantage: The cut is much more controlled. On your jig you can accidentally cut to the right since you only have a guide on the left. You always have to remember to push left to keep the saw going straight. This is probably no problem to you but with the above mentioned guides a straight cut is a certainty. I've use my Eureka guide a lot and its accuracy is amazing. I almost forgot that chipout is almost nil due to the design.

[Glenn Clabo]

Darrell,
You are in the same position I was in a while ago. I already had a good saw...and was using home made guides...and was frustrated. I bought the EZ Guide...and I can't believe how much I use it. In fact...the table saw has become just a table.